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Discussion Starter #401 (Edited)
Hertz Audio Dieci DCX 165.3 6.5" Coaxials (10.18.16)

With the front speaker upgrade finished, it was on to the rear doors. For the rear I went with the same company (Hertz), but since the rear was mainly for when I have passengers in the back seat (which isn't often) I went with a pair of Hertz Audio DCX-165.3 coaxials. Whereas swapping the front speakers out took less than 30 minutes, the rear doors were a different story: since I didn't touch the rear door at all during the first audio installation (other than the Dynamat), I had to pull the B-pillar trim panels to access the B-pillar area, and then fish new speaker wires through to the rear doors. This turned out to be a lot easier than I expected since I had a straight shot through the wiring loom tube (unlike the front where the loom enters the cabin up under the dashboard).


Installing the new DCX-165.3 Coaxials in the rear speaker adaptors.


New DCX-165.3 Coaxials soldered abd bolted into the rear door panels.

Another thing about the rear speakers - although I installed them at the same time as the fronts, I couldn't use them yet! My Alpine main amplifier has 5-channels; 1 and 2 are wired to the front dash tweeters; 3 and 4 are wired to the front door woofers; 5 powers my two JL Audio subwoofers. The OEM rear speakers were powered by the Kenwood head unit, but to run the setup I wanted, I had two choices: find a good 7-channel amplifier that put out the same power in the same small, compact size that the Alpine PDX-V9 had (not likely), OR I could add a separate, smaller output amplifier to the current setup to power the rear coaxials. I decided choice 2 made more sense - so while I enjoyed the sparking highs and excellent kick from the new Hertz front components, I knew that the next step would be to find a small 2-channel amp. Not only that, but it would have to be small enough to fit under the seat next to the TWK-88 somehow.

More to come =)
 

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Hey Raine, projects are looking great. I was curious if you have a shot of that Ultragauge at night and how bright it is when driving. I usually keep my dash lights dim and turn the display off when driving at night. I really dig that gauge but was just curious how well it would blend in if I figured out a way to mount it on the front plate of the overhead console or something similar.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #403
Hey Raine, projects are looking great. I was curious if you have a shot of that Ultragauge at night and how bright it is when driving. I usually keep my dash lights dim and turn the display off when driving at night. I really dig that gauge but was just curious how well it would blend in if I figured out a way to mount it on the front plate of the overhead console or something similar.

Thanks
If I remember to, I'll take some pics tonight after I get out of work since it's dark by then. For now though, I can tell you that the Ultragauge is at its brightest when looking directly at it; however, I have mine angled downward (to match the slope of the windshield) and since it's off-center from my seating position, it's not bright and distracting at all. Hopefully the pics will illustrate this more.

Also of note - I considered mouting mine on the overhead console also, but the front of the console (part nearest the driver) seemed too far back to where if I flush mounted it, it would be at too much of an angle to read without leaning my head back between the headrests (does that make sense?)
 

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Discussion Starter #404 (Edited)
Hey Raine, projects are looking great. I was curious if you have a shot of that Ultragauge at night and how bright it is when driving. I usually keep my dash lights dim and turn the display off when driving at night. I really dig that gauge but was just curious how well it would blend in if I figured out a way to mount it on the front plate of the overhead console or something similar.

Thanks
It was tricky getting a photo of the actual brightness at night, I had the phone lens positioned as close to my right eyeball as possible so I couldn't hit the focus or anything...



...in the photo above, it looks like the Ultragauge is brighter than it really is. IMO it's not as bright as the instrument panel (full brightness) or my head unit's display, and I don't notice it at all when looking forward and driving.
 

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I still like it. I was fiddlig around with a BT OBD2 module and the Torque application on my Nexus 7 and it worked great. I was thinking about maybe picking up an older android phone of some sort, like a galaxy or something, and then mounting it, but that Ultragauge gives the info I was wanting for so much less.
 

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Discussion Starter #406
I still like it. I was fiddlig around with a BT OBD2 module and the Torque application on my Nexus 7 and it worked great. I was thinking about maybe picking up an older android phone of some sort, like a galaxy or something, and then mounting it, but that Ultragauge gives the info I was wanting for so much less.
Yeah what I like about the Ultragauge is that it's standalone. Doesn't rely on a separate device, just plug and play and go.
 

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First off...the truck and all your mods look great!

My question...do you have instructions/link on how you installed the head unit...specifically on how to wire in the OEM backup camera. It is the one and only thing holding me back from getting rid of the stock radio.

Thanks!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #408
First off...the truck and all your mods look great!

My question...do you have instructions/link on how you installed the head unit...specifically on how to wire in the OEM backup camera. It is the one and only thing holding me back from getting rid of the stock radio.

Thanks!!!
It's not that hard really. You just need the Axxess AX-NIS32SWC harness adaptor (link), IIRC I bought mine from Amazon.com for about $9. At first the harness might look super complicated, but in reality you only need to use 4 wires from it:

NIS32SWC Connections:
Red wire: Connect to 12-volt ACC Switched (+)
Black wire: Connect to chassis Ground (-)
Yellow RCA plug: Goes to aftermarket head unit CAMERA IN plug
Green/Purple wire: Connect to aftermarket head unit "REVERSE" wire (on my Kenwood it was Purple/White)

The NIS32SWC will plug into one of the harnesses behind the center dash that used to plug into the OEM head unit. As for the rest of the NIS32SWC harness you don't use, just bundle the extra wires off and you're done.
 

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It's not that hard really. You just need the Axxess AX-NIS32SWC harness adaptor (link), IIRC I bought mine from Amazon.com for about $9. At first the harness might look super complicated, but in reality you only need to use 4 wires from it:

NIS32SWC Connections:
Red wire: Connect to 12-volt ACC Switched (+)
Black wire: Connect to chassis Ground (-)
Yellow RCA plug: Goes to aftermarket head unit CAMERA IN plug
Green/Purple wire: Connect to aftermarket head unit "REVERSE" wire (on my Kenwood it was Purple/White)

The NIS32SWC will plug into one of the harnesses behind the center dash that used to plug into the OEM head unit. As for the rest of the NIS32SWC harness you don't use, just bundle the extra wires off and you're done.
Awesome. I've grown VERY used to the backup camera and didn't want to lose it in a head unit swap. Thanks!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #410
Awesome. I've grown VERY used to the backup camera and didn't want to lose it in a head unit swap. Thanks!!!
Yeah before I swapped out the head unit I also made sure that I could use all of the OEM features, especially the camera
 

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Discussion Starter #411 (Edited)
How-To: “Switchblade” Flip Key Swap (01.11.17)

After I did the Rogue Swap (#328) last year, it eliminated the external keyless fob but it was still not compact enough for what I needed because of the key blade. After seeing the “switchblade key” thread and how it folded for a more compact shape in the pocket, I decided to order one. After a couple of weeks (a lot longer than I expected) the flip key arrived.

First thing’s first - I needed to figure out the transponder situation, since my truck has the anti-theft built in. I had already used my valet key transponder for the Rogue key, and I didn’t want to have to take a trip to the dealer for programming. Since I had two master keys in storage, I didn’t mind opening up one of them to pull the transponder out. Since the master key was molded around the transponder, I used a Dremel and some side cutters to completely obliterate the master key housing (LOL) and free the factory transponder from inside. If you want to do what I did, pay attention to the next two photos:


Well that didn’t come out easily.

Note that on the photo above, the metal key has a squared cutout on the left; next to it is part of the molded key housing with a cavity - this is where the factory transponder is located. For reference, see the next photo:


Key blade, emblem, and transponder as it’s molded into the key housing.

If you want to get the transponder out of the master key, this is how everything is positioned. With the Nissan emblem facing up, you can see the side where the transponder is, so trim this side carefully in order not to damage the transponder.

So... from one of my master keys, I had two parts that I needed - the factory transponder (which was already programmed for my truck), and the tiny Nissan emblem. I made it a point not to damage the emblem because after reading elsewhere that people are paying around $20 for it from the dealer, I figured why not use the factory emblem I already had on the master key!

The next day after getting the key blank cut to match my factory key (no charge but I left a $2 tip at Ace Hardware) the rest was easy. The flip key housing doesn’t have a screw holding it together like the Rogue key - simply pop it open with a flatblade screwdriver and you’re in. My flip key also had a dummy transponder inside; I just popped it out and used a small piece of double sided tape to secure my already programmed factory transponder in its place:


Rogue key next to the new flip key.

EDIT: Note that both the flip key and my Rogue key had a "transponder" inside when I purchased them. I put that in quotes because I never took them to the dealer to get programmed, so I don't know if they are actually transponders, or just dummies. Since I was using my own transponders that were already programmed to my truck, I didn't need to go to the dealer.

With the physical portion (the key blank) cut and the proximity portion (the transponder) in place, all that was left to do was the programming portion (to “pair” the remote buttons to the vehicle). I used the same method listed in my Rogue key post, and in less than 30 seconds I had the flip key functioning perfectly.

As for the emblem, the OEM emblem from my master key was a perfect fit into the flip key housing. I used a small dab of plastic cement, inserted the emblem into the housing, and the process was complete.


OEM Nissan emblem makes it legit, LOL

After this little project, I now have my OEM master key #1 with OEM external remote fob (kept at home for emergencies); the aftermarket Rogue key with built-in remote (for daily driving); and the new flip key with built-in remote (which folds for easier storage while I’m mountain biking.)
 

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Discussion Starter #412 (Edited)
I've been procrastinating on this particular mod, and it's still not complete yet. But there is progress, I'll just post this photo here and let you think about it:


To be honest, I think I'm not pushing to finish this mod fast because it requires welding and other things.

UPDATE: See this complete mod by clicking here.
 

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I've been procrastinating on this particular mod, and it's still not complete yet. But there is progress, I'll just post this photo here and let you think about it:



To be honest, I think I'm not pushing to finish this mod fast because it requires welding and other things.

Curious what we are looking at there?
 

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Discussion Starter #414 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #416 (Edited)
How about now:



::wink::
 

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Discussion Starter #418
I thought we played this game back in March of 2016 .....
Its still a fun game though...dont get me wrong.

External reservoir coilover mount/holder/bracket.
See post number #286 on your thread.
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f103/raine-s-2014-4x4-keira-build-thread-218506/index29.html

Its all good.
#281 lol

Yeah I know, that's pretty much indicative of the fact that I forgot about this project until the guy making the brackets got back to me recently and said "hey they're ready". Now I still have other details to figure out:

1. Leave as is and just paint, or smooth out the bracket shape first
2. Drill and Bolt onto frame rail, or find someone who can weld it on
3. Need to find a trustworthy place to replace-resize the reservoir hoses
4. Figure out when I can get all of the above done within my schedule
 

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I feel your pain...what a can of worms.
I have some similar (can of worms projects) haunting me.
A 9500 lb winch sitting on my work bench waiting to be installed in a (already mounted on my truck) Shrockworks bumper....where to mount winch control pack , re-locating winch remote plug , do I need a new more powerful battery to run the winch .....ect.....
Then figure out CB radio and Ham radio.
Do you have a tiny violin to play me a sad song?
I would suggest (you probably know this but) painting the brackets with self etching primer then paint with some VHT spray paint.

Edit ...Sorry Jen
 
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