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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)

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Great build here!

For some reason your pictures do not show on the autoguide app. They show fine on the mobile site and full site. Are they interlaced jpgs maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Great build here!
For some reason your pictures do not show on the autoguide app. They show fine on the mobile site and full site. Are they interlaced jpgs maybe?
Thanks! As for the pics not showing... maybe it's your app ::wink::

If your avatar was any indication, I would have guessed that you had named it, "Harley." Nice work on the build!
Thanks! The name was just by default "Keira" because I never actually sat down and said, "okay, what am I gonna name my new truck?" like it was a baby or something.

Harley. Sounds like a motorcycle. Wait... ::laugh::
Harleen. Hrm...
 

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Discussion Starter #28
how much is that. noise wise?
like lol, is that a horn honk, or a mouse squeak
Couldn't tell you what 2.5-db is. I mean, it's not like going from say my truck (before Dynamat) into a Luxury SUV, but for sure there is a noticeable reduction in noise level and tone.

What I can tell you for sure is that:

1. Much quieter inside with the engine off and the windows closed
2. Doors close with a solid, lower sounding 'thunk' with no more hollow sound
3. I don't hear anything rattling in the doors with the sub turned up
4. Midbass sounds different (better)
5. Wind noise at speed seems the same, but I think that's because of the direction it comes from when driving - meaning all hitting the windshield/front part of the truck, not so much directly into the sides of the doors
 

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Nice build thread! I'm really interested in more details regarding how you wired in your tailgate lock. Did you have to buy a kit or some assembly? More info please!
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Nice build thread! I'm really interested in more details regarding how you wired in your tailgate lock. Did you have to buy a kit or some assembly? More info please!
if you're basic level mechanically inclined (as in you can use a drill and splice wires) then don't get the $90-ish kit, it's way too expensive.

Search Amazon.com for "Universal Car Power Door Lock Actuator 12-Volt Motor (2 Pack)" for about $9 (it's a little cheaper if you don't go Prime and can wait for delivery) and some regular hookup wire (about 50-ft. so you have extra, about $5 at a local auto parts store)... so under $20 total - provided you have the tools (drill with bits, wire stripper, heatshrink, soldering iron if you choose to solder).

All the parts you need to install come with the actuators: the bracket to mount the actuator, the screws to bolt to the tailgate, and the actuator rod to attach to the tailgate lock lever. The only time consuming part was getting under the truck to run the wires along the frame rail from the tailgate to the cabin, to connect to the door lock wires on the left-passenger side B-pillar (where the door lock harness can be found).

For install you basically splice 2 wires and drill a total of 3 holes (5 if you're like me)... 1 hole in the tailgate lock lever, and two (or 4) mounting holes for the bracket assembly that holds the actuator in place. the actuator doesn't have to be in a specific spot - it just has to be somewhere where it can push/pull the actuator rod. You really don't need any relays for this kind of install, it's just a low voltage, low amperage door lock actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Totally doing this. Since I have to replace the tailgate handle because I'm a moron I may as well!
It's really easy. There was a different thread where some people were making it out to be some super complicated thing to do, or some super critical thing where they'd rather get "a kit" then piece it together. That's fine - do what you want to your truck... and sure - for some projects a pre-built or complete "kit" may make sense, but for this?

IMO this is like getting two pieces of bread from one container, a piece of cheese from another container, and some ham from a third container in the refrigerator. Put it together (toast the bread if you have it) and you got yourself a delicious ham and cheese sandwich for what probably amounts to about $1.50 in ingredients.

OR go to a restaurant and buy a "pre-built kit" sandwich for $9.99.
::wink::
 

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Order placed for $16. I just copied and pasted your description and it pulled it right up. Thanks for the advice! One question, do I make the sandwich before or after the installation? Just kidding.
 

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Just out of curiosity, do you have an idea as to how much all that dynamat weighs? I ask because I've been thinking about doing some but was concerned with the added weight since my truck is already a bit on the hefty side.
 

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its pretty heavy, but from what i can see im guessing thats roughly 100-130lbs max of weight added.
its well worth the weight.
I've heard it's pretty heavy but I guess it also depends on which type you use. 100-ish lbs isn't too bad but if it's gonna be another 2-300 that could be a deal breaker.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Just out of curiosity, do you have an idea as to how much all that dynamat weighs? I ask because I've been thinking about doing some but was concerned with the added weight since my truck is already a bit on the hefty side.
its pretty heavy, but from what i can see im guessing thats roughly 100-130lbs max of weight added. its well worth the weight.
Not even close.

Dynamat Xtreme is about 1/2-pound per square foot (0.45-lbs. to be exact)... so:

1x Bulk Sheet (18"x32") = 4-sq/ft. per sheet = 2-lbs. per Bulk Pack Sheet
1x Door Kit Sheet (12"x36") = 3-sq/ft. per sheet = 1.5-lbs. per Door Kit Sheet

I used a total of 10 bulk sheets and 6 door sheets = 29 pounds of Dynamat Xtreme. That's what, less than the weight of the OEM spare?
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
i guess it weighs way less than it used to??
i did literally half that amount about 5-6 years ago in my 240 and ended up at 45lbs.

well crap now that i think about it i used rat trap, i think .85-.90 mil?
What? I did the same thing to my 240 around 05' and now that I think about it, I kinda remember it was a lot heavier back then. But there was no "Xtreme" back then, just the heavy blue foil stuff IIRC

What's more weird - Dynamat being lighter than we remember, or that we both had 240s and now the same trucks?

EDIT: Looked it up, Dynamat Xtreme is .44 mil
 
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