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how so? I've not looked too closely at their IFS.
So here's two photos for comparison. Tacoma on the bottom and Frontier on the top.





You'll notice a couple key differences.

First off, notice that the upper control arm is in a different position. The Tacoma's upper control arm sits outboard of the coilover, meaning it swings around the coilover when the suspension articulates. The Frontier, on the other hand, has an upper control arm that sits above the coilover, meaning that the upper control arm swings towards or away from the coil bucket. This is a worse design, because if the shock length is extended, eventually the UCA will impact the coil bucket.

Second, take a look at shock length. The Tacoma's upper shock mount is much higher on the frame rail, so they can utilize a longer shock. Longer shocks mean more overall suspension travel.

Third, note the position of the CV axle shaft. It's much lower down on the Tacoma than the Frontier. This means it can be lifter higher and droop more than the Frontier can before the CVs start to bind up.

Fourth, take a look at the frame. It's kind of hard to see, but the frame on a Tacoma is noticeably narrower than the Frontier, which has it's advantages when we're talking independent suspension. A narrower frame means longer control arms, longer CV axles, and longer tie rods. This is good, because longer control arms means more travel. It also means that CV angles are lessened because of the extra length between to joints on the axle. Meaning, it takes a lot more droop on a Tacoma to get CV bind than a Frontier.

Hope that makes sense. Sorry for the thread-jacking raine.
 

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Nice write up as usual Raine. Gun tape looks like the way to go. Your truck is really coming along nicely.
 

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As for the non skid coating-
A welder that builds custom sliders here in Colorado paints the upper surface with rhino spray on bed liner.
 

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So here's two photos for comparison. Tacoma on the bottom and Frontier on the top.





You'll notice a couple key differences.

First off, notice that the upper control arm is in a different position. The Tacoma's upper control arm sits outboard of the coilover, meaning it swings around the coilover when the suspension articulates. The Frontier, on the other hand, has an upper control arm that sits above the coilover, meaning that the upper control arm swings towards or away from the coil bucket. This is a worse design, because if the shock length is extended, eventually the UCA will impact the coil bucket.

Second, take a look at shock length. The Tacoma's upper shock mount is much higher on the frame rail, so they can utilize a longer shock. Longer shocks mean more overall suspension travel.

Third, note the position of the CV axle shaft. It's much lower down on the Tacoma than the Frontier. This means it can be lifter higher and droop more than the Frontier can before the CVs start to bind up.

Fourth, take a look at the frame. It's kind of hard to see, but the frame on a Tacoma is noticeably narrower than the Frontier, which has it's advantages when we're talking independent suspension. A narrower frame means longer control arms, longer CV axles, and longer tie rods. This is good, because longer control arms means more travel. It also means that CV angles are lessened because of the extra length between to joints on the axle. Meaning, it takes a lot more droop on a Tacoma to get CV bind than a Frontier.

Hope that makes sense. Sorry for the thread-jacking raine.
Interesting. CV bind is also a lot more common in Tacoma's because of these reasons. 3" of lift often leads to CV bind on a Tacoma or 4runner. Yes they can have more droop and travel, but the inner cv binds like crazy on them long before they max out travel. So you end up having to do a Transfer case drop to lessen this. You gain travel, but loose clearance so have you really gained anything?Think of the coil bucket as a limiting strap. I like knowing that I can use full travel and turn offroad at the same time.
 

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Nice job with the sliders, Raine. Unlike you, I didn't have a right-angle adapter for my drill, so had to take the sliders off, drill, and put them back on - a royal pain in the behind, for sure!

I like the anti-slip gun tape that you used, and will probably get those as well so that I don't slip getting off the truck sometimes.

How about a post-installation photo of the entire truck? I agree that the sliders are well-made, fit perfectly, and look awesome; I'm just disappointed that you didn't go with red.
 

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Discussion Starter #310
As for the non skid coating-
A welder that builds custom sliders here in Colorado paints the upper surface with rhino spray on bed liner.
I've seen that done before, but IMO it's overkill. I don't need the whole bar covered for traction, and I'm not a fan of putting Rhinoliner on everything. If I could do without the GT-5000 I'd take it off but it's for those times when I have passengers.

Nice job with the sliders, Raine. Unlike you, I didn't have a right-angle adapter for my drill, so had to take the sliders off, drill, and put them back on - a royal pain in the behind, for sure!

I like the anti-slip gun tape that you used, and will probably get those as well so that I don't slip getting off the truck sometimes.

How about a post-installation photo of the entire truck? I agree that the sliders are well-made, fit perfectly, and look awesome; I'm just disappointed that you didn't go with red.
Yeah, to be honest I knew I needed to drill the side holes but for some reason I thought there would be room to drill after they were bolted up with the main hardware. So when I got to that "now take them off again" part, I decided to find a different solution so I wouldn't have to go through the hassle!

I'll take full pics when I get a chance, but it looks like it's about to rain soon here. Also, where did you ever get the idea that I was going to paint them red? LOL
 

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I've almost maxed out my phone's data plan binge-reading your thread while at work this week (it's OK, I have a government job). I was once pretty proud of the upgrades I've done to my 2014 CC, such as a powered subwoofer, mild suspension mods and an aux tranny cooler, but your improvements have blown my petty efforts away! I just ordered a door lock actuator for the tailgate, I can't wait to get that set up since I keep the gate locked most of the time to secure my tonneau cover. I feel so uncivilized having to use a "key" every time I have to access the bed.
Have you considered an aftermarket cat-back exhaust yet? I've got my eyes set on a stainless steel Dynomax system that Amazon has for a very reasonable price. I don't really need it, but dammit if I don't want it! This little truck sure is a lot of fun to tinker with.
Last question: How is your alternator handling the mods, especially that fantastic sound system you set up? Do you think there's enough juice left to power a trailer with electric brakes? I assume there's a high-amp unit out there somewhere just in case.
Thanks for all the effort you took creating this build thread, but if my wife finds out how much money I end up spending trying to keep up expect a call from Judge Judy ::grin::!
 

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I've almost maxed out my phone's data plan binge-reading your thread while at work this week (it's OK, I have a government job). I was once pretty proud of the upgrades I've done to my 2014 CC, such as a powered subwoofer, mild suspension mods and an aux tranny cooler, but your improvements have blown my petty efforts away! I just ordered a door lock actuator for the tailgate, I can't wait to get that set up since I keep the gate locked most of the time to secure my tonneau cover. I feel so uncivilized having to use a "key" every time I have to access the bed.
Have you considered an aftermarket cat-back exhaust yet? I've got my eyes set on a stainless steel Dynomax system that Amazon has for a very reasonable price. I don't really need it, but dammit if I don't want it! This little truck sure is a lot of fun to tinker with.
Last question: How is your alternator handling the mods, especially that fantastic sound system you set up? Do you think there's enough juice left to power a trailer with electric brakes? I assume there's a high-amp unit out there somewhere just in case.
Thanks for all the effort you took creating this build thread, but if my wife finds out how much money I end up spending trying to keep up expect a call from Judge Judy ::grin::!
Thank you sir for the kind words.
::smile::

Yes, the power tailgate lock mod is super convenient, and one of the really easy DIY mods one can do. I can't imagine not having a power tailgate lock after using mine. I don't get how some people actually pay $90+ for the "kit" version online, when the actual parts cost barely tops $10.

No immediate plans on upgrading the exhaust... but plans do change a lot, so who knows. Like you said, I don't need exhaust. Sometimes I want one. The one I looked at a lot before I even bought my truck was the Gale Banks Monster system. maybe next tax refund (if I don't earmark it already for something else LOL)

As for the stock alternator, seems fine so far. I have done some testing at idle while the stereo (more specifically the main speakers and the subs) were at higher levels, and the voltmeter readings showed alternator output at around 14.3v on average. I did the power window test, the HVAC test, and the all lights test and it still sticks around the 13.9V area. I have towed trailers before, but none big enough to have electronic brakes so I can't help you there.
 

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Nice choice on the White Knuckle sliders. I love mine, and I'm always impressed with how they look bare. Their welds are freakin' amazing. Nice work on the paint and non slip tape too, they really pull it all together.
 

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Nice choice on the White Knuckle sliders. I love mine, and I'm always impressed with how they look bare. Their welds are freakin' amazing. Nice work on the paint and non slip tape too, they really pull it all together.
Thank you sir!

...yeah the welds, tell me about it! So even, almost identical, super clean.
 

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Hello Raine,

I'm new to the forum but not to Nissan. I've owned nothing but Nissan trucks since 1984. Tried others but kept coming back. I'm on my fourth now - 2016 Frontier SL CC. I am mostly a driver - not a builder/modifier but may pick it up after reading your thread. I love this body style and wanted to have one before they change it.

I am in awe as to the planning, expertise, and work you have performed. The attention you pay to detail is incredible. The truck looks like it came from the factory that way and is most likely much, much better than factory quality now.

I was wondering if you might take quite a few steps back on your build and tell me if you have any recommendations on the interior LED lighting. For now, I want to replace the map lights, dome light, and vanity lights (yes, I know, baby steps). There is a bunch of stuff out there to read and a bunch of junk you can end up with if you're not careful. I was interested to know if you had any input.

Thanks,

BT
 

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Discussion Starter #317
Hello Raine,

I'm new to the forum but not to Nissan. I've owned nothing but Nissan trucks since 1984. Tried others but kept coming back. I'm on my fourth now - 2016 Frontier SL CC. I am mostly a driver - not a builder/modifier but may pick it up after reading your thread. I love this body style and wanted to have one before they change it.

I am in awe as to the planning, expertise, and work you have performed. The attention you pay to detail is incredible. The truck looks like it came from the factory that way and is most likely much, much better than factory quality now.

I was wondering if you might take quite a few steps back on your build and tell me if you have any recommendations on the interior LED lighting. For now, I want to replace the map lights, dome light, and vanity lights (yes, I know, baby steps). There is a bunch of stuff out there to read and a bunch of junk you can end up with if you're not careful. I was interested to know if you had any input.

Thanks,

BT
It's not in the LED post but I bought this for the interior a couple of years ago, and they haven't been replaced since:

http://amzn.com/B00FW1JQZC

However I did swap to a Phillips White Vision 921 LED for the back-up lights:

http://amzn.com/B00P2D41OQ
 

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I just ordered a Rogue key. Just thought I'd put that out there. LOL (it's a slow Wednesday at the office)
 
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