Nissan Frontier Forum banner

1 - 20 of 888 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2014 Frontier SV CC 4x4 "KEIRA" Build Thread
Thanks for stopping by and welcome to my build thread!

LATEST UPDATE: 08.31.19 Audio System Diagram updated for 2019, see #880.













INTRO
Buy a truck, do stuff, take pictures, and end up with a build thread… by the time I started this thread I’ve had my truck for a little over a year now, and I’ve been steadily doing stuff to it since the first day I drove it home so I decided it was time to make my own build thread to keep track of everything I’m doing. Speaking of the beginning… without getting too complicated, I had a change in lifestyle. I started mountain biking, I started camping, and I started to realize that having a lowered SC300 (build thread here if you're bored) was no longer practical. I was always a Nissan guy at heart (previously had a Maxima, Pathfinder, 200SX SE-R, 240SX... don't ask me how a Lexus got in there) so I knew the next vehicle was going to be a Nissan Frontier. That said, what basically happened next was:



NOTE –This is my third vehicle named “Keira” because I'm in love with Keira Knightley. I had a Nissan 240SX named "Keira", my Lexus SC300 was named “Keira”, and now my Frontier is named "Keira." We’ll just leave it at that. Ok - with the intro out of the way, let's get to the thread, listed from oldest to current. Oh, and feel free to comment or ask questions if you like :)

INFO
USERNAME: Raine
YEAR: 2014
MAKE: Starts with an “N”
MODEL: Frontier
TRIM: SV 4x4 Crew Cab
COLOR: Night Armor

----------------------------------------------------------------------

SUSPENSION
(#179) Bilstein 5125 Shocks, for 2-3" Lift
(#179) PRG/Deaver 2-leaf AAL, 2.5" Lift
(#179) Nisstec Axle Degree Shims
(#179) Nisstec U-Bolts
(#185) OEM Nissan LCA Camber/Caster Bolts
(#203) King Shocks 2.5" Custom Coilovers (also see #455)
(#221) OEM Front Sway Bar Removal, Part 1 (also see #270)
(#235) Extended Travel Suspension Notes
(#270) OEM Front Sway Bar Removal, Part 2
(#318) PRG 1/2" Front Lift Spacers
(#362) Ride Height Compared to a Stock Frontier
(#455) Custom External Reservoir Mounts, Part 1 (also see #456)
(#456) Custom External Reservoir Mounts, Part 2
(#553) King Reservoir LED Accent Lamps
(#___) Upper Control Arms TBA

WHEELS, TIRES, BRAKES
(#130) Level 8 Bully Pro 6 Wheels
(#131) Custom Rash Ring Bolts
(#142) R1 Motorsports Drilled & Slotted Rotors
(#142) Red Painted Brake Calipers
(#601) Modded FJ Spare Tire cover
(#___) Tires TBA

EXTERIOR/ARMOR/LIGHTS
(#006) Truxedo LoPro Qt Tonneau Cover
(#006) OEM Nissan FR/RR Splash Guards
(#006) OEM Nissan Side Window Deflector Set
(#006) OEM Nissan Side Step Rails
(#008) Rocky Mounts Clutch SD Bike Mounts
(#080) Firestik NGP Antenna
(#105) Mitsuba SH-1/SL-1 Truck Horns
(#114) White Rhino Fabrication Light Bar
(#153) OEM Nissan Pro-4X Oil Pan Skid Plate
(#153) OEM Nissan Pro-4X Transfer Case Skid Plate
(#245) OEM Nissan Titan "4x4 Off-Road" Decals
(#425) Rear "Shuttle Camera"
(#454) Painted OEM Radiator Skid Plate
(#463) P&P Front Recovery Points
(#624) Dee Zee Truck Bed Mat

LIGHTING RELATED
(#018) LED Interior Bulbs
(#018) Phillips White Vision LED Reverse Bulbs
(#018) UtiliTrack LED Light Mod (also see #553)
(#066) LED Floor/Display Lights
(#113) Xterra Switch Install
(#118) PIAA 520 ATP 6” Off-Road Lamps
(#426) PIAA Wire Wrap
(#431) Rigid Industries D-Series LED Driving Lamps
(#438) D-Series Wiring Notes and Output Photo
(#553) King Reservoir LED Accent Lamps
(#747) Katana LED Headlamp Bulb Upgrade (Full Write-Up)

INTERIOR AND ACCESSORIES
(#007) UltraGauge EM-Plus (also see #384)
(#026) Dynamat Extreme Part 1 - Doors
(#034) Dynamat Extreme Part 2 - Rear Wall and Floor
(#078) Midland CB Radio
(#149) Raingler Headrest Handles
(#263) Viair 300P Portable Compressor
(#584) Dual 2.4A USB Charging Ports
(#665) Center Armrest Cloth Cover

AUDIO/VIDEO
Current System Diagram (2019), see #880
(#022) JL Audio 10TW-1 Subwoofers x2
(#022) Alpine PDX-V9 5-Channel Amplifier
(#043) Modified OEM Bluetooth Microphone
(#043) Working OEM Steering Wheel Controls
(#043) Working OEM USB Port w/Audio
(#043) Working OEM Back-up Camera
(#398) JL Audio TWK-88 Digital Signal Processor (also see #847)
(#399) Hertz Audio HSK-165 6.5” Component System
(#401) Hertz Audio Dieci DCX-165.3 6.5" Coaxial Speakers
(#425) Rear Auxiliary "Shuttle Camera"
(#485) Under-seat Amp and DSP Platforms (also see #644)
(#584) Super NES Classic Retro Gaming Console
(#642) Soundstream ST2.1000D 2-Channel Amplifier
(#656) SiriusXM Satellite Tuner
(#859) Kenwood Excelon XR DNX-995S Navigation Head Unit

CUSTOM MODS/MISC INSTALLS
(#014) Power Tailgate Lock Mod
(#080) Firestik NGP Custom OEM Location Install, Part 1
(#095) Firestik NGP CB Antenna Custom Install, Part 2
(#141) Quickie Firestik Antenna Shrink Mod
(#152) Trimming For Tire Clearance (Fenders), Part 1
(#169) Trimming For Tire Clearance (Front Lip), Part 2
(#171) Trimming For Tire Clearance (Fender Liners), Part 3
(#177) Trimming For Tire Clearance (Splash Guards), Part 4
(#342) Club Frontier "Lifetime Member" Decals
(#454) Painted OEM Radiator Skid Plate
(#455) Custom External Reservoir Mounts, Part 1
(#456) Custom External Reservoir Mounts, Part 2
(#601) Modded FJ Cruiser Spare Tire cover
(#634) System Refresh, Day 1 - Cable Management
(#641) System Refresh, Day 2 - Upholstered A/V Panels
(#642) System Refresh, Day 3 - New Rear Fill Amplifier
(#643) System Refresh, Day 4 - Bass Controller + Voltmeter
(#644) System Refresh, Day 5 - Reinstalling Everything
(#696) Custom Tweeter Pods, Part 1
(#701) Custom Tweeter Pods, Part 2
(#847) Custom Mounted JL TWK-88 Control Knob

ENGINE-AREA RELATED
(#006) Stant Locking Gas Cap
(#109) Blue Sea Fuse Block
(#122) Engine Ground Fix
(#496) Off-Road Gorilla Hood Strut Kit
(#595) Interstate 640 CCA Battery

HOW-TO WRITE-UPS
"The End-All Guide to Camber Bolts and UCAs for 2nd-Gen Lifted Frontiers"
(#013) How-To: Trailer Plug Relocation Mod
(#018) How-To: Trailer Plug Bracket Delete Mod
(#067) How-To: Rear Axle Vent / Diff Breather Mod
(#072) How-To: Navara Emblem Swap
(#328) How-To: Genuine Nissan Rogue Key Swap
(#328) How-To: Program Your New Rogue/Switchblade Key Remote
(#411) How-To: Nissan "Switchblade" Flip Key Swap
(#536) How-To: EZ-Down Tailgate Damper Kit Install

TRIPS AND OTHER STUFF
(#004) The First Day Home
(#021) Mountain Biking at M-Trail, Riverside, CA
(#068) Getting Lost in Cleghorn Ridge, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#073) Mountain Biking at Snow Summit, Big Bear, CA
(#079) Camping in Cleveland National Forest, CA
(#088) Azusa Canyon OHV Exploring, San Gabriel Canyon, CA
(#108) Return to Cleghorn Ridge, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#123) Mountain Biking at Marshall Canyon, La Verne, CA
(#140) Some Photos Before the Rain at Pomona, CA
(#162) Lytle Creek Afternoon Trail Run, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#207) Return to Azusa OHV (with New Suspension!), San Gabriel Canyon, CA
(#263) Silverwood Trail Run, San Bernardino, CA
(#490) Just a photo of my rear window decals
(#515) Photo Swapping/Updating Thread Pics
(#565) TPMS Replacement / Manual Programming Notes (also see #587)
(#667) Saturday Audio Tuning w/Umik-1
(#797) My Truck on the White Rhino Fabrication Website

THINGS THAT TOOK SOME TRUCK MONEY
(#375) The Other "Ride": Commencal Meta V4 Mountain Bike
(#520) The New "Mod Stopper": 2018 Commencal Supreme SX
(#861) Another Distraction: Commencal Meta Power 29

EOL / ARCHIVED / ITEMS REMOVED
(#006) OEM Nissan Wheel Lock Set
(#011) How-To: Custom Phone Holder
(#012) Audio Control Epicenter Processor
(#012) JL Audio XD300/1v2 Mono Amplifier
(#012) Kicker C10 Subwoofers x2
(#012) ASC Prefab Dual Subwoofer Enclosure
(#018) Phillips Crystal Vision Headlamp Bulbs
(#018) Phillips Crystal Vision Foglamp Bulbs
(#021) Pipeline Rail Rack Bike Holder
(#022) Alpine RUX Control Knob
(#042) Image Dynamics CXS v.2 6.5” Components
(#042) Custom Upper Dash Speaker Mounts
(#043) Kenwood Excelon DNX-892 Navigation Head Unit
(#043) Amazon Fire TV
(#043) Forward Facing Camera
(#061) MiniDSP DSP 2-Channel Processor
(#061) MiniDC Regulated Power Supply
(#131) BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 Tires
(#173) Morimoto XB Type-S LED Fog Lamp Install
(#173) Lamin-X Yellow Overlays for LED Fog Lamps
(#185) Total Chaos Upper Control Arms
(#241) Remote HDMI+USB Connector
(#303) White Knuckle Off-Road DOM Steel Rock Sliders (Also see #304)
(#305) Hi-Tech Industries GT-5000 Traction Tape
(#485) Kenwood KAC-M3004 2-Channel Amplifier
(#607) For Now... Half the Bass (Temporary)
(#643) CT Sounds UBK + Voltmeter
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Exactly What I Was Looking For (09.26.14)

It took about 6 months after making the decision to change vehicles before I sold my 1995 Lexus SC300 at my asking price, and it finally happened in August of 2014. With the SC300 gone, I pretty much knew what was next; After researching models, options, dealer stock in my area, and thoroughly debating between the SV and Pro-4X, I decided on the SV with the Value Truck Package, which had a lot of stuff that was not standard on the Pro-4X (unlike the 2016 models now) – plus the Pro-4X had a lot of stuff that I’d probably swap out someday (OEM Bilsteins, wheels, etc.)

Since it was year-end clearance time, the challenge was to find a 2014 SV 4x4 Crew Cab in Night Armor with a short bed and VTP. That’s exactly what I wanted, nothing more and nothing less. Lucky for me I found one in the exact spec I wanted about 30 minutes away at Metro Nissan in Montclair, CA. It took 3 visits all week and a lot of hard-nose negotiating to get the type of deal and payments I wanted, and they finally gave in after the third night of seeing me there.


Super factory stock mode, with no plans on modding anything at this moment. LOL
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Looks good. What size tires?
265/75

It's about time...geez! Just kidding. Good start. Looking forward to the rest. :thumbup:
It's going to take longer than I thought because of the automerge, jeniorNV said it's about a 5 minute gap before it resets and lets me post consecutively.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Day One Mods – the First Weekend (09.27.14)

The title sounds contradictory, but oh well – anyhow, the day after I took the truck home I hit the road and headed to a local auto parts store to pick up some cleaning supplies, and I also bought a Stant locking gas cap (part #10504); this was technically my first mod, heh. After that I went to a couple local Nissan Dealerships (closer to me than Montclair) and dropped some cash on a few genuine Nissan accessories that caught my eye in the catalog – originally I just wanted the mud guards and wind deflectors; the parts guy said he’d give me a deal on the side steps ($150 flat!) because they were just taking up space in the back, and he even offered to throw in a free set of wheel locks… so why not!


OEM mud guards, wind deflectors, side steps, and free wheel locks.


You know that feeling, buying something and installing it at night because you can’t wait.


First non-OEM “mod” gets a picture, even if it’s boring.

The next day I went to Costco to pick up some stuff, and I couldn’t help but constantly look in my rear view mirror the whole way home, so I decided I needed a tonneau cover. I looked at the tri-fold style at first, but I realized it would be a pain to have to remove it every time I wanted to load my mountain bike up for a ride, so I shopped around for the roll-up style. I went with the Truxedo LoPro QT because it had a very low profile to it, and it had a lot of great reviews online. Ordered it on Amazon Prime, 2 days later I installed it in about 1 hour. I’ve had it for over a year now and I’m happy to report that there are still zero signs of sagging, no weathering, and no color fading whatsoever – looks and works just as good as new.


The LoPro QT is an excellent tonneau cover, with a nice, tight fit.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Keeping an Eye on Things (10.02.14)


I’m getting better gas mileage because of this thing changing how I drive.

(UPDATE 09.27.16: Changed mounting location, see #384)

When I saw the UltraGauge EM-Plus in my brother’s Tacoma, I had to have one. Install was a snap – plug the cable into the OBD2 port under the dash, run the cable along the back of the knee panel, up along the side trim, and I stuck it on the dash with the vertical mount. It actually took me longer to get everything programmed to how I liked it.

The gauges I normally have setup for daily driving are (clockwise in the photo): short trip miles driven (resets at key off), short trip MPG (resets at key off), average MPG (so I can compare across an entire tank of fuel), engine temp (I prefer a number over a vague needle), distance to empty, and gallons of fuel left (changed this to “miles travelled” later on).

It’s a pretty useful little gadget – it doesn’t do ECU reprogramming or anything of that sort – but after using it for the first couple of weeks I realized how heavy my right foot was, and eventually changed my driving habits because of it. If you're thinking of an OBD scan tool, I'd strongly suggest you consider the UltraGauge.

By the way, the 22.1 MPG shown was achieved during a long road trip back home from the casino in Valleyview, CA.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
For the Mountain Bike (10.03.14)

Just in time for the weekend, I bought a pair of RockyMounts DriveShaft SD bike mounts. The Driveshaft SD was designed to bolt right into the UtiliTracks in the bed, and I particularly liked the fact that it can accept 9mm, 15mm RQ, and 20mm QR axles and has a built-in key lock.

These things are pretty heavy and super solid; my mountain bike doesn’t budge or sway one bit while driving. I thought they were a little pricey at first, but they’ve been rock solid for over a year now. Maybe I’ll post my bike specs later on.


Here’s my bike attached securely by the DriveShaft SD.


Side view, the fork easily clears the rolled up tonneau cover.


Super solid clamping action, and the built-in lock is a nice feature.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,853 Posts
Welcome to the fun and torture of documenting how much money you've spent and what you spent it on : )
And nice bike!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Welcome to the fun and torture of documenting how much money you've spent and what you spent it on : )
And nice bike!
Oh I already know this feeling well - did the same thing for my SC300 on the Lexus forums a few years back. It's a vicious cycle. It hurts but we keep doing it haha
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Custom Phone Holder Mod (10.18.14)

(UPDATE 03.07.15) Mod removed when I installed a new head unit, see #43)

I normally use Waze while I drive so I needed a way to hold my iPhone 6 Plus where I can see it. I have used the MacAlly Mcup in other vehicles with great results, but because of the position of the Frontier cupholders (back near the elbow) I had to come up with a solution. The idea: directly mount the Mcup onto the console bin at the top of the center console.

For power I used a 2-meter USB extension cable and an Anker Lightning cable. I ran the extension from the OEM USB port under the center arm rest through the center console area and up behind the OEM radio. Now I had my iPhone front and center, making navigation use easily visible and accessible. I had this setup for half a year before I eventually upgraded to an aftermarket in-dash head unit with navigation (more on this later).


Used a Dremel to cut some small holes into the console bin.


Just large enough to push a Lightning cable through.


Modified the base of the Mcup to use a ¼” bolt.


Tied a loose knot to limit the exposed cable length.


A regular fender washer provided a strong, sturdy mounting base.


Bolted together now; cable exit hole is barely noticeable.


USB extension cable from center armrest USB port.


How it looks completed. Phone can be clamped/released with one hand, and clamp rotates to any viewing angle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Let’s Add Some Bass (10.30.14)

(UPDATE 02.07.15: Subwoofers replaced with JL Audio 10TW-1 Subwoofers x2)
(UPDATE 02.07.15: Amplifier replaced with Alpine PDX-V9 5-Channel Amplifier)


I barely lasted a month before deciding that the factory sound system needed more bass. I picked up a prefab subwoofer box that fit under the rear seats, preloaded with a pair of cheap Kicker C10’s. To power them I chose a JL Audio XD300/1v2 amplifier rated at 300wx1 @2-ohms, specifically because of its small dimensions due to being a Class-D amplifier… I didn’t want to mount the amp behind the rear seats, so I had to pick something that fit under the driver’s seat. Knowing the audio signal would be limited by the factory head unit, I also installed an Audio Control Epicenter Bass Processor underneath the passenger seat to get some low frequencies back. I used a PAC Line Output Converter to connect the stock Nissan head unit to the Epicenter’s inputs. With the two Kickers, I had more bass like I wanted. However at the same time, it just showed me how weak the factory main speakers were. Eventually I knew I’d upgrade the audio some more, but for the time being this was fine.


Center cluster and center console out, seats unbolted and tilted backward.


Checking lengths and running RCA cables.


Installed the line output converter under the center console.


JL Audio XD300/1v2 amp under the driver’s seat, all wired up.


Audio Control Epicenter, under the passenger’s seat next to OEM Bluetooth module.


Pair of Kicker C10 10” subwoofers. Not the greatest, but good enough for now.


Dual-10” enclosure, down-firing, fit pretty nice under the rear seats.


I like how the subwoofer box lines up with the edge of the floor mat and doesn’t creep into foot space.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
How-To: Trailer Plug Relocation (11.05.14)

As many have done on the forum, I decided to relocate the trailer plug; I never liked how the OEM setup was on a bracket protruding down from the receiver, it literally looked tacked on.

TOOLS/PARTS USED
1. Power Drill
2. 2-1/4” (57mm) Hole Saw Bit
3. 7/16” Drill Bit for Metal
4. Dremel Multi-Tool with Grinding Bit
5. Socket Wrench, 10mm
6. Center Punch
7. Masking Tape (I prefer ScotchBlue)
8. Ruler
9. Sharpie Pen
10. Paint Marker
11. Flathead Screwdriver (optional)
12. Round-Edge Metal File (optional)

The whole job takes less than 30 minutes. once I started cutting. This is an easy job, just make sure you have all the tools listed. NOTE: I did not take photos of every single step, but the descriptions and the photos I do have should be easy to understand and follow.


Not sure why they had to do it this way, it just doesn’t look clean at all.

STEP 1: From underneath the tailgate area, unplug the trailer plug harness from the trailer plug assembly. You can use the flathead screwdriver to help you here if it’s difficult to disconnect.

STEP 2: Using the 10mm socket wrench, unbolt the trailer plug from the bracket.

STEP 3: Let’s work on the plug first. Using a Dremel with a grinding bit, carefully trim away all the little tabs and steps that surround the round portion of the plug. This will make it easier to install into the bumper, since you won’t have to notch and trim the bumper hole.


Used the handy Dremel to trim the old position tabs on the plug.

STEP 4: Now on to the bumper. Using masking tape, mask off the area to the left of the license plate location from top edge to bottom edge. Use your ruler and Sharpie pen and make a dot that is centered top-to-bottom and left-to-right. For left-to-right, measure from the license plate frame up to where the bumper just starts to curve.

STEP 5: With your mark in place, take the center punch and punch a guide on the Sharpie mark. This is important as it will keep your hole saw bit from wandering when you start drilling/cutting.

STEP 6: Using a drill and the 2-1/4” (57mm) hole saw bit, SLOWLY begin cutting the hole. Take your time here, no need to rush the cut. When the drill bit is through the bumper and the hole cutting blade starts to make contact, make sure to hold the drill level with the bumper so that the hole cutting bit is flush with the bumper. Don’t push with force - let the hole aw do its thing.


Masked the bumper for protection, drilled center hole, then hit it with the hole saw.

STEP 7: Once the hole is cut, don’t remove the masking tape yet. Take the round-edge metal file and clean up the hole edges; if you don’t have a file, you could use the Dremel and grinding bit, but use a low speed and take your time.

STEP 8: with the hole cleaned up, insert the trailer plug into the hole, make sure it’s level, and mark the bolt holes with your Sharpie. Center punch the marks, and then drill two 7/16” holes.


Held the plug in the hole to mark the bolt positions, keeping them level.

STEP 9: If all is well up to here, you can now remove the masking tape from the bumper. Use a paint marker to seal the bare metal edges of the holes you made to help combat rust.


Finished with drilling, added paint on the inner edges to help prevent premature rust.

STEP 10: Slide the trailer plug into the hole, and reattach using the 10mm socket wrench.


All bolted in, much cleaner than the old version.

STEP 11: Plug the harness back into the rear of the trailer plug, and the relocation mod is complete!


On my truck the trailer plug harness had ample length to reach the new mounting position.

RE: Original Trailer Plug Bracket Attached to the Receiver/Hitch:
As for the original bracket, I chopped off as much as I can with a sawzall, but then I had a rough edge along the back, and there was still the plate at the bottom that I couldn't take off without a grinder. Of course I can't leave it like this, so first I used the Dremel to clean up the sharp edge and remove some paint from the surrounding areas and the plate welds. Next I used some JB Weld Steelstik to blend in the edges of the plate and the cut edges into the shape of the receiver. Once that dried I used a Dremel, a file, and a sanding block to smooth out the shape before finishing it off with primer and matte black spray paint.


No more ugly bracket sticking downward to catch on things.

And if you can't see where the bracket used to be, here you go:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Power Lock for the Tailgate (11.08.14)

You know when you get in your truck, drive off, and then pull over real quick just to check if you locked the tailgate? That happened to me a lot, so I decided to install a lock actuator and have the tailgate connected to the cabin door locks. I wanted it to function like how SUVs have the dual-press option (press unlock once = only driver door gets unlocked, press unlock twice = all other doors/trunk unlock) so I ran a par of wires from the tailgate area to the left-rear passenger door lock harness. That took the most time since I loomed and wrapped the wires up first, and then ran them hidden along the frame rail. At the tailgate I installed a waterproof connector that piggybacked on top of the OEM backup camera connector. In fact, installing the actual door lock actuator was the easiest part. Total install took about 45 minutes, and the cost of all parts came out to about $15 total. Now I know that whenever I lock the doors, the tailgate will definitely be locked as well.


Added a harness with a waterproof connector in case I need to remove the tailgate.


Here’s the new harness using the same access points as the OEM backup camera harness.


Drilled a small hole in the locking mechanism to attach the actuator rod.


This was the easy part – mounting the actual door lock actuator. Took all but 5 minutes tops.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,853 Posts
Where'd you get the sub enclosure?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #16

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,853 Posts
Thank you sir!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Adding Some LEDs (11.09.14)

(UPDATE 02.04.17: Install pics for reference added, see #553)

Using the same wiring harness I ran for the power tailgate lock (it was a 4-wire harness) the other two wires were for the bed LED lights. I ran an LED strip from end to end on the bottom edge of the left and right Utilitracks on the sides of the truck bed. The wiring for the LED strips ran behind each taillight before meeting in the center underneath.

From here I connected the other end of the harness to the cargo lamp harness behind the rear seats. This made it so that the bed LEDs would go on whenever the cargo lamps were on – whether the trigger was unlocking the truck, or using the cargo lamp switch in the dash. This also ensured that I wouldn’t leave them on accidentally, as they would automatically turn off when the cargo lamps also turned off. Cost for this mod was about $15 for the LED strips from eBay.


I thought I had more pics of the bed LED install, but this is it until I can take a better one.

The photo below is my map lights; I switched all of the interior bulbs to white LEDs (about $20). If I remember one time when it's dark out I'll take much better photos of both of these LED mods for the thread.


I’m sure you’ve seen LEDs installed before. Dome light is now white light.

EDIT: Just to add this here since it's about lighting, I swapped out the OEM headlamp and OEM foglamp bulbs to Phillips Crystal Vision bulbs. Also, I did eventually swap the back-up reverse lights (in the taillamp assembly) to a pair of Phillips White Vision 921 LEDs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,693 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
What did you do about the trailer plug bracket afterwards? did you cut it off?

Thanks
Chopped off as much as I can, blended it in with Steelstik, then painted with matte black spray paint (info added to the trailer plug post, above):

 
1 - 20 of 888 Posts
Top