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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, I am in the process of installing my 2.0's and have hit some problems. A lot of my problems lie with the fact that i have a 3in spacer on top of them. I have completed the driver's side but i had to loosen the nut on the radflo down to only 3cm off of the bottom. I dont think that will cause any problems and I gained 2in lift with it.

My question is this, Why do I have less space between my arm and coilbucket now? I am titan swapped and I have little room between my arm and bucket.

I am running stock titan uca's so i can upgrade those. Rough country or calmini? Prg's are too expensive



 

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Hey, those look familiar, I could be wrong but the 2" of lift you are gaining is at the expense of wheel travel which is why your uca is so low, as far as UCA's they might be more but I'd go with the PRG's ones ( oh wait I did their just not here yet) so on top of a 3" spacer those are cranked up another 2" for 5" total of lift ?, could you just grind the coilbucket instead of buying uca's ? maybe someone with more knowledge will comment.
 

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If you back the coilovers off a bit, you will raise the UCA away from the coilbucket, but lose lift in the process. When my 2.5s went on I had the same problem, so I just cranked the coilovers towards the top with the spanner wrench and I gained clearance from the arm and coilbucket and down travel.
 

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You have 3" spacers and your coilovers giving you 2 more inches, plus a 1/2 inch from from the titan swap. So you have a total of 5.5" in the front?
 

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Can you take some measurements?

Also would like to see how down travel you have.
 

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You'll be replacing those arms down the road when the ball joints go out on ya! Trust me. That's why I now have Camburg arms. I'm running 4" of front suspension lift and have lots of down travel, but the stock ball joints dont do well at that angle. Its much better w/ the camburgs. The stock titan arms would hit the c/b at full droop, but my Camburgs are designed such that they never contact even at full droop.
 

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You'll be replacing those arms down the road when the ball joints go out on ya! Trust me. That's why I now have Camburg arms. I'm running 4" of front suspension lift and have lots of down travel, but the stock ball joints dont do well at that angle. Its much better w/ the camburgs. The stock titan arms would hit the c/b at full droop, but my Camburgs are designed such that they never contact even at full droop.
How much did they end up setting you back?
 

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About $500 I think. They're cheaper than the others, but are almost identical to Total Chaos arms. The only thing about them is that they add alot of camber and caster. I personally love where my settings are. I'm running about 6* of caster (which pushes the wheel further back and made me trim some) but it tracks perfectly straight and the wheel snaps back straight after a turn. As for the added camber, even w/ 4" of lift I'm running .75* of negative camber which helped out my cornering a whole lot. Its not enough to wear tires unevenly, but its enough that it is very noticable before and after. They did their homework when they designed these.

Oh, and they make drifting very easy :D
 

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About $500 I think. They're cheaper than the others, but are almost identical to Total Chaos arms. The only thing about them is that they add alot of camber and caster. I personally love where my settings are. I'm running about 6* of caster (which pushes the wheel further back and made me trim some) but it tracks perfectly straight and the wheel snaps back straight after a turn. As for the added camber, even w/ 4" of lift I'm running .75* of negative camber which helped out my cornering a whole lot. Its not enough to wear tires unevenly, but its enough that it is very noticable before and after. They did their homework when they designed these.

Oh, and they make drifting very easy :D
So your running the camburg titan arms? You think they're better than the others. And are they adding positive or negative camber, Im just kind of confused, but Im interested in the possible advantages your trying to explain. So is the upper arm pushed forward or backwards.
 

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So your running the camburg titan arms? You think they're better than the others. And are they adding positive or negative camber, Im just kind of confused, but Im interested in the possible advantages your trying to explain. So is the upper arm pushed forward or backwards.
You may want to read up a little on camber, caster and toe.

This is a quick link with pics: Wheel Alignment A Short Course

The only way to change your caster angle is to move either the lower or upper ball joint. If you do the Brutal method of wheel alignment, you tend to push the lower ball joint forward. This is how people are able to fit a 33" tire without a lift (does require trimming for most thou). Bwarren has moved his caster positive with the Camburg UCAs so the upper ball joint is closer to the firewall as compared to negative caster which is towards the headlights. The arms have caused his wheel to move closer to the cab and thus the need to trim a little more for clearance.

I would venture to say that you may be able to change your caster angle and get it closer to zero but that will really move the tire closer since your lca is going to be adjusted closer to make up for the uca.

Now for the camber being 0.75. That helps a lot with tracking. If you ever see a person in a wheelchair and the wheels are tilted/angled, they are doing the same thing. It helps them track straight.

The only other thing to change is the toe but for the most part, you want it at zero. If it is towed in or out, it may help in certain driving situations but for the most part as a DD, zero is the goal or slightly positive but nothing like 3 or 4 or etc....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I agree with you Bwarren, camburg stuff is pretty dope! Those would for sure be my first pick

well im just going to put out there that those rough country are 200$... i know "you get what you pay for" but my pockets arent that big. I am headed off to college and it all depends if i can get a job up there. Hopefully I will caddy at The Seminole golf course. Anyone got any connections in tallahassee?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok mike, I have 41inches from the ground to the highest part of my front wheelwell. There is 8.75inches between top of tire to top of well. I am running 285/70/17 (33in) no rubbing.

How do I measure down travel?

By the way it looks like a monster truck now...
 

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How do I measure down travel?
Measure from the center of the hub to the fender arch with the truck on the ground, then measure again with the front end lift jacked up.
 
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