Nissan Frontier Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, so hopefully I can get some good info on this.

My 2000, had a caliper (front driver's side) seize on my over the weekend. I'm sure there have been plenty of warning signs that I've ignored over the last few months, but anyways. Looking for a source that will be cheap, and not take forever to ship. I'm already having to wait until the first week of June until j can even buy my parts (I'm replacing both sides, 16yo truck, if one fails the other probably isn't far behind) Which brings me to my main point. Would it be OK to just buy unloaded calipers? Or should I go with the semi-loaded so I don't have to deal with the hassle of changing the bracket? Also, can't remember the last time I did the brakes. Should I spring for fully loaded and just turn (or replace) the rotors?

If I just go with semi-load (or unloaded) should I bother doing additional work while the tires are off? Rotors or new brake fluid?

Thanks all.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
You can look at rockauto.com for some pricing and they will get them to you pretty quick.

As far as what you need to get is really up to you and how much work you are willing to do. You can get the calipers loaded or unloaded which every you prefer, it does not really matter.

As far as how far to go with it. My opinion would be that you replace it all at this point in time. with a caliper locking up, it likely was dragging for a bit before it locked up so you have likely heated thinks up quite a bit so it would be best to just go ahead and get both calipers and rotors and pads. you can get rotor and pad kits, sometimes some kits will even include the calipers. and you might as well change the fluid while you are down there anyway as it should be changed at 60000 mile intervals per the manual.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the advice. For changing over and "loading" the calipers, are there any good walkthroughs or videos? I don't wanna jump in over my head here. As for the parts, I'll have to go poke around. Doesn't look like my era truck has a lot of love for brakes.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
So I just got all my parts in from RockAuto.com and noticed that some of them a a little old. Like the manufacture/rebuild date was 3 yrs ago. Is this a problem? The boxes have a pretty heavy layer of dust and the boxes look like they're in good condition (so I'm guessing climate controlled warehouse).

Also, any idea how much brake fluid is needing if I drain the system?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,928 Posts
Don't "drain" the system; bleed the system! If you drain the system, you'll have a whole lot of air to bleed out. If you want to replace all (or most) of the fluid, you take a turkey baster or brake vacuum pump tool and suck most of the reservoir fluid out and refill it with DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid before you start bleeding the system. If you are bleeding the whole system, you have to make sure the wheel cylinder bleeders will break loose, first, and make sure you bleed in the proper sequence. Many will tell you bleed the longest line, first and proceed to the next longest, but that isn't the case on many Nissans. Autozone.com has free repair guides if you register an e-mail and should have all the information you need to do this job. If you haven't gotten them, already, I would've recommended getting new brake hoses in the front to go with your new calipers. If you are bleeding the whole system, get a quart of brake fluid from your local auto parts source and it should be more than enough...or, two, pint-sized bottles. There should be some videos on YouTube. The brake systems are all pretty similar on '86.5 through '04 Nissan pickup trucks and Pathfinders. The 2WD is a little different than the 4WD because of the difference in hubs and wheel bearings, but the replacement of the pads, calipers and mount bracket are pretty much the same procedure.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So, I got the job done (mostly) and it took me about 5 hours (not too bad in my mind for my first time ever touching brakes). Anyone know the by the book time for it?

Anyways, can anyone confirm the size of the bolt that holds the bracket to the steering knuckle? Mine was 22mm (and I'm hoping that's the OE). My replacements (A1 Cardone Ultras) did not come with any bolts for the brackets nor did my massive 22mm bolts fit the new brackets. I'm working with RockAuto and A1 Cardone to see what the problem is (hopefully it's their problem) so I can get the new brackets on.

As always CF, thanks for your help (I would be broke and crazy without it)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
674 Posts
So, I got the job done (mostly) and it took me about 5 hours (not too bad in my mind for my first time ever touching brakes). Anyone know the by the book time for it?

Anyways, can anyone confirm the size of the bolt that holds the bracket to the steering knuckle? Mine was 22mm (and I'm hoping that's the OE). My replacements (A1 Cardone Ultras) did not come with any bolts for the brackets nor did my massive 22mm bolts fit the new brackets. I'm working with RockAuto and A1 Cardone to see what the problem is (hopefully it's their problem) so I can get the new brackets on.

As always CF, thanks for your help (I would be broke and crazy without it)
It sounds like youre having a problem trying to fit new caliper brackets to the knuckle? I've never had to change brackets, are yours no good?

Can't you just use your old bracket and bolt up your new caliper to that?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pretty much. Can't get the bracket to the knuckle bc I don't have any bolts. Changing the bracket is super simple, worst part was the rotors (wish I'd seen this video so I wasn't so confused. https://youtu.be/ZFTPyb_Hkvg )

So right now it's Frankenstein'd (new caliper to old bracket). Can't say if the bracket really needed to go, but since the caliper piston seized up, and everything is all rusted (but the slides still work) so i figured "why not?"
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,928 Posts
Why couldn't you use the bolts from the old caliper bracket? 22MM might be the size of the bolt head, but that's not the size of the bolt. You could just order new bolts from Nissan. They would be Nissan P/N 41005-6P01A for the bolts and 41044-6P01A for the washers.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Why couldn't you use the bolts from the old caliper bracket? 22MM might be the size of the bolt head, but that's not the size of the bolt. You could just order new bolts from Nissan. They would be Nissan P/N 41005-6P01A for the bolts and 41044-6P01A for the washers.
So I'm using the old bracket bolts and the old bracket at the moment since the old bracket bolts don't fit the new brackets. Thanks for keeping my on my toes, yes the bolt head is a 22mm, not sure what the OD of the threaded part is, but the new bracket needs a smaller OD part.

Thanks for the part number, may give a few parts departments a call and see if they have specs on those numbers.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,928 Posts
Sounds like the wrong bracket for your vehicle. If the caliper, itself, is the same as the old and works with the original bracket and bolts, I would just leave it as is. Maybe the bracket is for a 2WD? I'm not sure.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm (almost) hoping that it is the wrong bracket and that I can get the right ones sent out. I do have the 2WD so I'm hoping that it isn't something crazy like a previous owner had non-OEM parts bolted in at some point. That'll be $$ to Nissan that I'd rather they not get from me.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
UPDATE: so the part I bought were apparently for a 4wd truck (even though it wasn't specified). RockAuto was no help on the issue (only bc I had already mounted the calipers to the old brackets, but that's another rant). Cardone had to dig but they did find out that there is a difference, and they overnighted me the right ones (I think).

OK, so now a new problem. I currently have no access to my 22mm socket and wrench I was using (my buddy moved to the other side of the country) and I really wanna get these changed without having to buy more stuff (for now anyways).
So I ask those more experienced than I, "can I use an adjustable (aka: crescent) wrench to do this job?" My biggest worry is not getting them torqued tight enough on the reinstall, followed by rounding out the bolt heads.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
IDK if you have clearance to use a crescent wrench on the caliper but you sure don't want to round off the bolt head. Do you have access to a 7/8" socket? That will fit that 22mm bolt head. If you can't borrow one, Harbor Freight has a 25% off coupon today (Labor Day) so a 1/2" drive metric socket set will set you back $21 + tax.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,928 Posts
I don't recommend an adjustable wrench. As mentioned, 7/8" is the same size. Or, just pick up the right tools at your local hardware or auto parts store.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
If you only need specific socket, Lowe's and Home Depot sell individual sockets and wrenches. This way you just get one part that you really need instead of spending 20+ bucks for a whole set that will just sit on the shelf or drawer for the rest of your life.

Also check hardware stores. I have had good experience using Tekton brand tools. Local hardware store carries a bunch of their products. Whole sets and individual tools.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,171 Posts
If you only need specific socket, Lowe's and Home Depot sell individual sockets and wrenches.
So does O'Reilly; I bought a 23mm socket there for my Mazda truck.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top