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Discussion Starter #1
Our latest project is a 2009 Pro4X with the ReadyLift SST 2.5" front/ 1.5" rear. It is previously enjoyed with 272,000 km but from what I have read, that is barely broken in. It was well maintained by the 2 previous owners, and it will continue to be well cared for in our hands.

From what I have read, that lift kit is not something the Pro4x enjoys, so we might step it up a notch to keep it level in the rear. The end game goals are a full Titan swap, and hope to swap the engine over as well. As for right now, I have a Jeep for my offroading needs, so we are going to use this for our long distance overlanding trips until the real build begins.

The first things I want to make sure are looked at are the rad/tranny bypass, and enabling the locker in 2WD and 4HI, with a possibly safety net. I plan to ARB the Titan 205, so maybe the rear locker can't be engaged until the OBA is engaged.

I want to keep it on 265/75R16's for now to keep the fuel costs sane, as it is replacing our fuel efficient car. We want to build a rack in the back for our RTT. The question is do we go with steel which allows me to modify it as I go, or get someone to make me one out of aluminum. It is going to mainly see easy going trails like forest service roads, but I want it to be capable so if we do get to a washout, we might not have to turn around. I would really like the bumpers and sliders to be aluminum too, as they will be there as safety nets, and not devices used to bulldoze trees for fun.
 

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Rogue Admin
2007 LE 4x4 Crew Cab Long Box
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Welcome to the Club. MNCarl has a really nice build - check out his links and build thread. If you are wanting to stay relatively stock but will be carrying weight, I would suggest that you either get some custom heavy duty rear leaf springs made, or add air bags to help carry the load while getting to the dirt roads. I have both, and make the truck a lot nicer to get me to my hunting locations far up north.
 

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Yep, factory leaf springs are great when new for an empty bed and no towing. However, they will flatten w/ time...and approach the dreaded 'W' shape when pushed.
Like Zedbra, I've got both airbags and HD leaf packs installed. Truck handles better overall and copes w/ loads in a much more civilized manner. The airbags allow for leveling your headlights when night hauling/towing.
If hauling/towing AND lifting, start w/ more capable leaf springs.
 

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... 2009 Pro4X ... I would really like the bumpers and sliders to be aluminum too, as they will be there as safety nets, and not devices used to bulldoze trees for fun.
For your lift I'd advise OME leafs in the rear, and for the shocks & front either the OME or Bilstein. OME is the 'easiest' as its all tuned to run together. I have OME leafs on the rear of my truck and love them.

For the skids, bumper and sliders... sliders REALLY should be steel. It will only be one or 2 trees or rocks before they'd be bent up.

As for the skids & bumper... The Hefty AL bumper is great. It really does take a beating (but there IS something to be said about pushing trees around...) alot more than you might think, assuming you don't plan on hitting things flat-on.... For the skids.... The gas tank and engine ... you should think carefully about AL or steel... The gas & engine skid in AL is more a sturdy stick protector than anything... Don't get me wrong, I liked my AL skids, but hte gas tank skid folded up into itself on a soft-moderate hit and got real cozy with the gas tank. It did its job, but I would have been happier if it had handled more punishment... After doing some repairs to it and reinforcing the front frame-mount point it does much better. That said, I replaced it with steel within a year.
Engine skid took longer to taco, but it WILL taco. Our bellies are just too flat and the engine skid bears most the brunt of punishment. Mine survived for 2 punishing yrs.
The radiator skid will be ok. Same with the trans/transfer skids.

The bulk of your weight is saved with teh bumper though... 65lbs vs ~200lbs. The difference between the skids is less dramatic.

The gas tank & engine are just to vulnerable if you plan on being way off the beaten path, particularly solo.

Good luck with the build!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow! Just realized that I had not updated the build thread in a while. Things have changed a little bit over the last year and a half. First thing is first, I sold my Jeep, and the wife got an Armada, so Yeti is now mine for the building.

The first iteration for last summer was great. We put some 265?75R16 KO2's, built a rack for the RTT, upgraded the headlights with a retrofit, installed a OME MD lift all around. It was perfect. We spent the summer driving around all over the southern part of the province camping every weekend.

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Then winter came and I started driving my Jeep again for snow wheeling. The truck lost the tent and rack to save fuel, and wifey was using it to commute. The plan was to leave it as it was and just remount the rack in the summer and carry on with our adventures.

I get a phone call one night shortly after wifey leaves to get some groceries. She has slid off of the road on a icy corner and hit a tree. Bumper is broken, and my retrofits get smashed. After talking to insurance, we decided this was a good time to upgrade some stuff, so we got paid off for the bumper, but they had to replace the headlights themselves, and the only option was HID Retrofits. Long story short, this got the ball rolling.

Over the next 4 months, the truck got some Coastal Offroad bumpers front and rear(with a tire carrier), Shrockworx skid plates, 285/75R16 KO2's, Titan swap up front, shackles and bilsteins with the OME MD leafs in the back to match the height, a snorkel, a canopy, fender flares from a Ram 1500, a touch screen android deck for our overlanding needs, remote start with a push button start and a few more things here and there.
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Now with winter coming, the parts for the next stage have been ordered. New parts that have just arrived, are still in the mail, have been made, or are about to be made are as follows
  • OME HD leafs
  • Radflo rebuild kit ****opted to go with Bilstein 5100 Tundra shocks, OEM FJ Cruiser front coils, and ADO top hats
  • ADO 1/4" spacer
  • bull bar for the front bumper
  • limb risers
  • side steps to mount to the rear bumper for more room to stand when working with the tent
  • Trigger 6 Shooter Bluetooth switch system
  • 35x12.5R16 Milestar Patagonias
  • side shooter ditch lights
  • dual color chase lights(amber for chase, white for around camp at night)
  • rock lights
  • 2 5" spot lights
  • Timbren Active Offroad bump stops front and rear
  • custom Prinsu inspired rack front and rear
  • Sy-Klone Snorkel head to prevent clogging air filter with dust and leaves
And once all of that is said and done, I also picked up a Nissan Titan parts vehicle with a lower mileage engine.
 

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Wow , thanks for the update.
Excellent idea on the dodge ram 1500 fender flares....did this allow you to cut the fender arches bigger?
I guess I am just asking for more details on the ram 1500 fender flares ?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow , thanks for the update.
Excellent idea on the dodge ram 1500 fender flares....did this allow you to cut the fender arches bigger?
I guess I am just asking for more details on the ram 1500 fender flares ?
Yeah. It allowed me to cut the vertical part of the stock fender off. Its about an inch long.

They don't fit perfect, and if you have a snorkel, or CCSB, you need to do some moulding with a heat gun. Also, drilling and riveting your fenders is a one time thing, especially on the box so that is nerve racking. The fronts cover 2.6" of tire poke, and the rear covers 2". I have been hunting for a set that will actually cover the 4.2" of tire poke i have on each side seeing my wheels are 1mm offset.
 

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Yeah. It allowed me to cut the vertical part of the stock fender off. Its about an inch long.

They don't fit perfect, and if you have a snorkel, or CCSB, you need to do some moulding with a heat gun. Also, drilling and riveting your fenders is a one time thing, especially on the box so that is nerve racking. The fronts cover 2.6" of tire poke, and the rear covers 2". I have been hunting for a set that will actually cover the 4.2" of tire poke i have on each side seeing my wheels are 1mm offset.
I ordered a set of flares from Kut Snake, an Ozzy company, to try on my King cab but the fuel door is in a different spot between the short box and long box so they're not going to work. If you are interested, they are up for sale.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Opted to get rid of the Radflos. Too much of a headache, and they apparently aren't very fond of Canadian winters. I chose to go with the Tundra Titan swap set up that consists of the Tundra 5100's, FJ Cruiser coils, and ADO custom top hats. Hopefully they will work well seeing as I drive like an old man, but maybe a 6112 option will be better in the future}.

Also decided that I should just do new inner and outer tie rods while everything is apart and just do one alignment. Now it is a waiting game while I get the rest of the truck pieced back together.

My rack is completed, just needs some holes drilled for the side lights and paint.
 
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