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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'll try to keep the words down on this and let the discussion follow. Bottom line, i'm upgrading my XE. I'm a long ways from knowing everything to make this a success, but i'm hoping with the help of those who know more than me, this will be a success. I don't want to "miss" something important.

Today:
4Cyl XE
Radflo 2.0 on stock A arms
***mini front bumper

Stage 1: (Starting as soon as next week.)
THE FRONT
PRG Titan M/T kit
M/T Arms Upper and lower
Radflo 2.5's
Stock Coil Buckets
Extended lines
THE REAR Here's where i'm not so sure what to do because of stage 2
Complete Deaver Leaf System
Bilstein Shocks
PRG Rear Shackles
(will so much lift in the rear require an extended driveline spline?)

Fiberglass Front Fenders
Fiberglass Rear Fenders (maybe, maybe not depends on rear axle swap choice and extended length)

Stage 2: Within 1 year, depending on availability/prices of parts
FRONT
Addition of extended spindles
Titan: ?
extended spindles
Hubs
Rotors
Calipers
Wheels
Bigger Tires ( don't think the 4cyl will push bigger than what I have, no matter what gearing, hence my apprehension on the need to go titan spindles/hubs/rotors/calipers/wheels)

or Frontier: ?
CST Spindles
If I go with frontier I can make CST spindles part of Stage 1 M/T upgrade

REAR
Axle swap
Titan:
Not sure how to accomplish this, keep in mind, 4cyl gears
Frontier:
M226 with gears? Need help, need suggestions.
Will my Deavers/bilsteins bolt up?

Stage 3: Realistically 1 - 1.5 year out
Front
Hoops with Dual Rate shock

Rear
Hoops with improved shock system

My goal is to end up with a decent M/T suspension system that will compliment the end product at Stage 3.
I don't want to buy the same thing twice. Right now I can see that i'll have to buy the front coilovers 2x and the rear shocks 2x. I'm ok with that, and that's why i've chosen bilstein rear shocks for stage 1.

THANK YOU ALL. I've learned so much here, and I hope pioneering this 4cyl project will leave us with something to offer the community when finished.
 

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I think you are along the correct path but there are a few changes I would suggest. Instead of keeping the coil buckets in the front, just ditch them in step 1. If you actually use the truck, you will destroy them on a noise dive. I know you only have the 4 banger and its lighter but still, the buckets just suck.

Secondly, switching to the Titan bolt pattern is your best bet over the Frontier one due to wheel selection. I would use the Titan spindle/hub with brakes in the front and then a Titan m226 in the rear but you will need to get gears from superior (probably the 4.56 ratio to help with your larger tires).

Lastly, don't forget you will need to figure out some kind of Master Cylinder swap (probably from a Titan) to make the larger brakes work and to help while offroading.

The only other thing to remember is that the front and rear fenders will get in the way if you have enough travel so some kind of fiberglass fenders will be needed.

Lastly, have you checked out other options for the rear? Something with swing arms and coilovers? This may or may not be in your budget but will defiently push the limits of your truck.

Also, is this build for a specific class or just something you want to do for yourself?
 

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Stage 1
Skip the radflo's and get the King coilovers. They are impressive in person.



Stage 2:
There are now 4.10 gears for the M226 available.
 

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All I can say is I cant wait to see another XE sitting legit. I'm also a little jealous cause I wish I had the money to do all that right now too. As far as the suspesion goes. Do you really need to upgrade the 2.0 radflos though. From what I understand there is not a huge difference between the 2.0 and 2.5. Devilrunner is running a titan swap and 2.0s in his XE with a 350 chevy in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think you are along the correct path but there are a few changes I would suggest. Instead of keeping the coil buckets in the front, just ditch them in step 1. If you actually use the truck, you will destroy them on a noise dive. I know you only have the 4 banger and its lighter but still, the buckets just suck.
I'm trying to avoid hitting a roadblock that will keep me from starting this project. Fabbing hoops and a framebrace would probably be a task that keeps me from starting the project. It's money/time/expertise I don't yet have, I wish I did, but i'm just afraid I wont even start the project if i go to fab work first. Make sense?

Secondly, switching to the Titan bolt pattern is your best bet over the Frontier one due to wheel selection. I would use the Titan spindle/hub with brakes in the front and then a Titan m226 in the rear but you will need to get gears from superior (probably the 4.56 ratio to help with your larger tires).
My initial thoughts - going titan spindle/hub will cost me a considerable amount more money, when the biggest advantage is wheel selection, something i'm not worried about. I won't be overheating the brakes, it won't be driven like a racetruck.

Lastly, don't forget you will need to figure out some kind of Master Cylinder swap (probably from a Titan) to make the larger brakes work and to help while offroading.
Part of the reason I'd rather not tacke the titan Spindle/hubs. Has anyone figured out exactly how to make the Titan MC swap a success?

The only other thing to remember is that the front and rear fenders will get in the way if you have enough travel so some kind of fiberglass fenders will be needed.
Good point. I planned on glass fenders in the front for sure, in the rear if needed. Added this to Stage 1 list.

Lastly, have you checked out other options for the rear? Something with swing arms and coilovers? This may or may not be in your budget but will defiently push the limits of your truck.
Swing arms and coilovers haven't been considered as an option, most likely thousands of dollars out of my price range. I'm past my dollar limit already.

Also, is this build for a specific class or just something you want to do for yourself?
No specific class, the truck is a daily driver, 100 miles/day plus. Just personal enjoyment in Urban Offroading Environments like the mall. Ha.

Stage 1
Skip the radflo's and get the King coilovers. They are impressive in person..
Can you help explain the advantage in mechanical terms? I just don't know. Seems like there isn't a huge cost increase, is that right?

Stage 2:
There are now 4.10 gears for the M226 available.
GREAT TO KNOW! This was a question I was pondering on the way home...which gears are available. The rear axle is a very unsettled topic, to titan or not to titan.

Agreed with dubie, do the hoops from the start. That way your not buying twice. Im building budget for a regular ts with camburg uppers and king coils with hoops for my truck.
As you know, hoops are no small undertaking, and as stated above, i'm worried this may squash the whole project if I start here.

All I can say is I cant wait to see another XE sitting legit. I'm also a little jealous cause I wish I had the money to do all that right now too. .
You're one of my inspirations, ha!
As far as the suspesion goes. Do you really need to upgrade the 2.0 radflos though. From what I understand there is not a huge difference between the 2.0 and 2.5. Devilrunner is running a titan swap and 2.0s in his XE with a 350 chevy in it.
The 2.0's need to be upgraded from all I understand, they're not cut out for the job. Seeing the 2.5's really opened my eyes to size difference. Maybe the 2.0's could work for now? Until I get the hoops/dual rate 10's put in? Can someone comment?
 

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If you are dead-set on doing the fab work yourself then I see your point on the time/money/expertise but honestly, there are enough shops in CA that you could probably price shop and get a decient price. Also, this would eliminate the cost of buying 2 sets of coilovers. The cost savings there alone make it almost worth it.

I also understand your choice of leafs over the swingarms.

I have one last question thou, is this really just a standard DD and mallcrawler or will it actually see some dirt? If it is just an mallcrawler, then most of the things you have listed are not needed and would just be a waste of money. If it is for the dirt, then make sure you check out TerribleOnes truck.
 

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The 2.0's need to be upgraded from all I understand, they're not cut out for the job. Seeing the 2.5's really opened my eyes to size difference. Maybe the 2.0's could work for now? Until I get the hoops/dual rate 10's put in? Can someone comment?
the 2.5's are very nice because of the increase oil capacity....i got my 2.0's way before i swapped a chevy in my truck....its all in the valving of the shock...specifically for your needs, not a broad market range.....greg valved mine specifically cause i like to jump and nose dive the truck....i run a 750lbs spring which is heavy but is amazing on and off the road....
 

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i have a buddy in oroville that does tube fab work for a living and on the side i cant talk to him see what kinda price hell do for some hoops ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the 2.5's are very nice because of the increase oil capacity....i got my 2.0's way before i swapped a chevy in my truck....its all in the valving of the shock...specifically for your needs, not a broad market range.....greg valved mine specifically cause i like to jump and nose dive the truck....i run a 750lbs spring which is heavy but is amazing on and off the road....
I know greg will help me dial in the radflo's. I'm not sure what my options are with something like Kings.
i have a buddy in oroville that does tube fab work for a living and on the side i cant talk to him see what kinda price hell do for some hoops ?
Who is it? It would be a conversation worth having for sure. Have you seen his work?
 

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OK, hmmm...where to start.

Firstly...ahh, fu(k it; this will take me too long to type out. Just PM me your number or call me and I can get you set up right.

I will address a few things though...King vs Radflo; doesn't make a damn bit of difference if you aren't racing. It's all on how the shocks are tuned; spring rate and valving are your only concern.

Titan vs Frontier lug pattern...TITAN TITAN TITAN! There are so many advantages to switching to a standard lug pattern it's not even funny. #1 reason to swap is the availability of aftermarket hubs.
 

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I know greg will help me dial in the radflo's. I'm not sure what my options are with something like Kings.
greg is the best option...no one understands nissans more than greg....i'd run the radflos from greg to whatever specs u want him to set them up at...you will be 100% happier versus a bolt on application from king...and if your not diggin' the radflos, then sway-a-ways from greg as well...just left him do his magic and your set
 

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Can you help explain the advantage in mechanical terms? I just don't know. Seems like there isn't a huge cost increase, is that right?
They are $300 more but they are also remote reservoirs. I don't remember the spec's but everything is lager on the King coilovers. PRG can valve them and get different springs for them also. Army_Frontier is using them.

I would avoid radflo 2.5's. There seems to be quality issue. If you look around the frontier and Xterra forums they have a problem with loosing nitrogen charged or people getting them new and they are low on nitrogen charged.
 

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Who is it? It would be a conversation worth having for sure. Have you seen his work?
i know its not related but he did alot of the new big gate/entryway to riverbend park when he worked for a different company and he has a fully built custom patrol so hes a nissan fan might give us a deal i still need him to make me some sliders his name is dallas we ran into him at the highlakes not to long ago he said he works at some 4x4 fab shop in o-town now
 
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