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Discussion Starter #1
I've had this squeak for a while and I decided to try and address it today so I started spraying my suspension points. I was rocking my truck back and forth to try and hear where it was coming from and my upper control arm uniball is wore out already. I mean I guess it is, i can grab my upper arm and move it up and down right at the uniball. This is on both sides, passenger side is worse though. I thought maybe the bolt came loose somehow but I can't even tighten them a little bit. I'm gonna have to contact Greg and see what he says, I've only had them for about year. At least now I know where the clunking has been coming from.

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man, that suck's. I was gonna get PRG UCA too, but i guess now i'm going with Calmini D40 UCA.
don't jump to conclusions....many people have the PRG UCA's here (including myself) and this is the first i've heard of this issue:confused:
 

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I mean I guess it is, i can grab my upper arm and move it up and down right at the uniball. This is on both sides, passenger side is worse though.
what kind of off roading do you do?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
what kind of off roading do you do?
Not alot of actual off roading/wheeling, but I drive alot of dirt roads with wash boards and potholes everywhere. And I'm usually driving like I'm goin to a fire. I dunno I'm pretty bummed, I guess I'll have to put the stock ones back on for a while, I just don't know if I still have all the hardware, not to mention the time to change em out, I've been way busy last few weeks and I don't really see much time in the near future to do it either. And though it's not related I think the damn squeaking is getting worse, my 71 Chevy doesn't make this much noise lol.

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So what is moving? The race in the cup? The bearing in the Race? The bolt in the bearing?

Lets see a vid.
Mine have held up great, and I am breaking stuff only the titan guys are breaking.

Do you have all the misalignments and washers on right, make sure you didn't run out of thread so your bolt is moving in the bearing.
 

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I started noticing a squek in my front suspension the other day too. Will have to perform test in vid to see if same issue.
 

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I started noticing a squek in my front suspension the other day too. Will have to perform test in vid to see if same issue.
I had a squeak with my PRG UCA's as well and when I took them out I noticed that one side of one of the heim joints was missing a dust seal which allowed for that joint to wear prematurely. Take a look there too.
 

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I have popping and sqeaking noises in my front end and contact on minor drops with the passenger side UCA.
I am at the point where I will have to take the UCA off to investigate to see what is going on.
I might have to put the stock UCA on again!
What is going on?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This video was posted on thenewx a few days ago. Does it look like this?

YouTube - IMG_0552.mov

UCA's/ Video - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)

No It's not like that, mine is moving at the ball joint. If I gab the UCA on each side of the ball joint and push up and down it moves about 1/8" I also found that it was a source of a very loud squeak. I took both front tires off and put it on jackstands and turned the wheels by hand and got a very high pitched squeak. It wasn't the same squeak I've been hearing though. The one I was looking for is actually more of a creak. And I think it is my shock, I held the shock (spring) as I let the jack down and could actually feel the creaking in the coilover. Another thing I noticed is the side thats making the noise, the coilover heims if that what they are called are alot tighter than the other side. What I mean by this is if you grab the coilover and turn or twist it, it moves quite abit. the side that makes the noise twists very little. So anyway I took some leftover Royal Purple and put in a squirt can and squirted it around the ball joint and also on the coilover mounts. And while it didn't work right away it did work it's way in and the squeaking and creaking are GONE!! I feel like I have a new truck again. I still need to address the loose ball joint though, but I'm pretty happy at the moment.

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mine UCAs were squeaking for a long time but its on and off. I tried spraying sil-gylde the spray in the UCA hiems and the hiem joint that connects to the steering knuckle. But it wears out and starts squeaking again. So i caked it with the grease type sil-glyde and just recently it started squeaking bad. When i get out of my truck it has a long squeak. But i might just check the suspension out to see if thats the problem. But is anybody else having a clunking noise when going in reverse?
 

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Maybe my problem is with the Radflo shocks as mention in the "bad clunk" thread.
I better check my pressure. Maybe the clunking and squeaking is caused as the shocks loose pressure?
 

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I had a squeak with my PRG UCA's as well and when I took them out I noticed that one side of one of the heim joints was missing a dust seal which allowed for that joint to wear prematurely. Take a look there too.
dust seal? what dust seal? I don't got no stinking dust seals!

WD40 did the trick through, we'll see how long it holds up.
 

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Uniballs are considered a consumable item such as brakes, tires etc. They are used primarily because they will allow MUCH more movement and their significant strength increase over a ball joint. Since they are not sealed like a ball joint they are exposed to the elements such as dust, dirt and such. The uniballs have a teflon liner between the race and the ball but clearances will always increase when dust and dirt is ground into them from movement. They will always have a small amount of slop to them but over time it will get excessive and require replacement. Replacing them is pretty easy as the uniball is held into the arm with a snap ring. The prg arms use a 7/8" uniball and the Total Chaos arms use a 1" uniball. With my arms and heims I make sure to rinse all mud and dirt out periodically and use liquid graphite to lube them. Do not use penetrating oil such as wd40 because that will ATTRACT dirt and wear them out quicker.


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Uniballs are considered a consumable item such as brakes, tires etc. They are used primarily because they will allow MUCH more movement and their significant strength increase over a ball joint. Since they are not sealed like a ball joint they are exposed to the elements such as dust, dirt and such. The uniballs have a teflon liner between the race and the ball but clearances will always increase when dust and dirt is ground into them from movement. They will always have a small amount of slop to them but over time it will get excessive and require replacement. Replacing them is pretty easy as the uniball is held into the arm with a snap ring. The prg arms use a 7/8" uniball and the Total Chaos arms use a 1" uniball. With my arms and heims I make sure to rinse all mud and dirt out periodically and use liquid graphite to lube them. Do not use penetrating oil such as wd40 because that will ATTRACT dirt and wear them out quicker.
Nick
Good post just want to make one point WD40 (Water Displacement 40) is not a penetrating lube, PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench are penetrating lubes. WD40 is the most god awful substance and I never recommend it be used on anything. Also stay away from crap like 3inone oil which is veggie oil based your better of going to your local bicycle shop and picking up some Triflow which is a dry Teflon lube used for bike chains for the same reasons stated above.
 

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dust seal? what dust seal? I don't got no stinking dust seals!
Well whatever you want to call that ring that looks like it acts like a seal. If I attached the photo correctly, you can see the two heims on the right have some sort of a ring holding the joint together whereas the ones in the middle do not. I had those and one of the rings was missing which led to the joint failing early on.
 
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