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What tire pressure? KO2 E load 295/75r16

  • Run stock man... like 32 psi

    Votes: 6 28.6%
  • 40psi

    Votes: 7 33.3%
  • 45psi

    Votes: 3 14.3%
  • 50psi

    Votes: 4 19.0%
  • 55psi

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 60psi

    Votes: 1 4.8%

  • Total voters
    21
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone, I just finished installing KO2 295/75r16 on a mostly stock but w/ 2" lift Pro-4X. The truck is totally loaded out - 4 door, short bed, 4x4, leather, nav... you name it its got it. I have a front trailer hitch for towing a 300~400LB jetski setup.

My question is, what tire pressure should I run with the new KO2s with E rating? The tire's max is 80psi. Searching around the F150 and Toyota board seems the 45~55psi is about normal. When I got home, the shop had put the tires at 40PSI and they looked a bit low. I pumped them up to 50psi and they look good.

On the weekends I'm either pulling a 4500LB boat, or towing a jetski. I have a FRONT trailer hitch which is also to tow a jetski. I can tow BOTH at the same time. Picture next post (Old tires).

So - whatcha running? What should I run?
 

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First of all, you cannot "look" at a radial tire and tell if it is at the proper pressure. Dangerously low, sure, but you cannot simply look at it.

Take a look at this video. He explains using tire chalk to determine proper pressure on a non oem size or type of tire.


While I don't run BFG's, I did it with my Duratracs and figured out my tire pressures.

With that said, you will probably want to go up a few PSI when towing a heavier load.
 

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Chalking the tire is great to figure out what's not too low. When I started Auto crossing we would mark the sidewalls every 120 degrees with white shoe polish. We would do a lap of the course and check the shoe polish. If the shoe polish was worn off past the tread of tire ie side wall. We would pump the tires up a couple more PSI and do it again, and repeat till you saw just the shoe polish off the tread. I would still suggest keeping a close eye or your tread wear, if the tire is wearing out quicker in the middle you know that means the pressures are too high. And for everyday driving I think the Auto cross shoe polish pressures would be too high.

Why don't you try the stock 35psi and unless you see scrubbing of the sidewall on the front tires or uneven wear. And remember your going to see a big drop in MPG not only due to the weight and size of the tire. But your going to be recording less miles than actually driven because that tire will do 34 less revolutions per mile.
 

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40psi for off road?

I run my ko2s around 50psi due to the Arb bumper and canopy full of recovery/camping gear. I go down to around 25psi off road
 

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50 PSI seems way too high. Did you guys watch that chalk video? That guy is running 26psi up front and 23psi in the rear. The E load tires are way stiffer and unless your towing 5000lbs or have 1500lbs in the bed of the truck I think you guys are driving around on the center of the tread. Just IMHO
 

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50 PSI seems way too high. Did you guys watch that chalk video? That guy is running 26psi up front and 23psi in the rear. The E load tires are way stiffer and unless your towing 5000lbs or have 1500lbs in the bed of the truck I think you guys are driving around on the center of the tread. Just IMHO
I have a canopy and carry a lot of gear in the back. Plus the Arb bumper in the front. It's been a year and my tread looks even.
 

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How much tire rub are you getting with those 295's? Is your truck lifted? ... I cannot really tell from the photo. My 285's rubbed until I did the melt mod and that's with 2.5" of lift

FWIW .... I typically run at 18psi tire pressure off road
 

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Grabbing a set of new tires in the next couple of weeks and honestly going C load. Theres no reason for me to go E even with all the mods I've got on the truck in my opinion. That being said, I would run both at 38psi on road and generally drop them to 20 psi off road. Everyone is different when it comes to tires and pressures thats for sure!
 

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I have ko2's but they're 265's. I run them at 38 and 15. My last set of ko2's lasted years at 38psi with no odd tread wear. I can't believe guys are pushing 50 psi and not wearing the middle out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
The LT 295/75r16 KO2 tires are working out pretty well for me.

I have a 2" lift on Pro-4X, and camber bolts in the front.

I had to remove the (all) mud flaps, and use a utility razor to cut away just a bit of the front air dams. I may have to cut and bend the fronts but for now there is no scrubbing - even though the tires get very close - like 1/8" from the plastic.

Kauffman tire did a fantastic job aligning the truck to 0.2 camber and 2.0 caster then tow adjustment. It was not a cheap alignment but they took their time and made the truck feel great. Even so; for some reason my steering lock-to-lock turns more when turning all the way to locked to the right: and going this far makes about 1/8" of the tire's inside corner tread rub up against the truck's steel frame (See the second pic). After the alignment it got much better, but the tire tread still touches slightly. Its just the tread rubbing and not the sidewall so its not really such a huge deal breaker. I think this would be solved w just some AutoZone 1/4" spacers but honestly its not bad at all. The rest is pretty tight but it will work for me as a street driven vehicle.

As long as you are lifted 2+" and get the camber bolts, LT 295/75r16 worked for me. Don't get me wrong, it requires some cutting, and melting, but nothing more than about an hour's work. The truck drives straight as an arrow, looks awesome. I just gotta get the 1/4" spacers - which I don't believe will require hub centric as they won't be far out enough to interfere with the stock hub.

Pics are here. Sorry, please tilt your heads to the LEFT 90 degrees.
 

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The LT 295/75r16 KO2 tires are working out pretty well for me.

I have a 2" lift on Pro-4X, and camber bolts in the front.

I had to remove the (all) mud flaps, and use a utility razor to cut away just a bit of the front air dams. I may have to cut and bend the fronts but for now there is no scrubbing - even though the tires get very close - like 1/8" from the plastic.

Kauffman tire did a fantastic job aligning the truck to 0.2 camber and 2.0 caster then tow adjustment. It was not a cheap alignment but they took their time and made the truck feel great. Even so; for some reason my steering lock-to-lock turns more when turning all the way to locked to the right: and going this far makes about 1/8" of the tire's inside corner tread rub up against the truck's steel frame (See the second pic). After the alignment it got much better, but the tire tread still touches slightly. Its just the tread rubbing and not the sidewall so its not really such a huge deal breaker. I think this would be solved w just some AutoZone 1/4" spacers but honestly its not bad at all. The rest is pretty tight but it will work for me as a street driven vehicle.

As long as you are lifted 2+" and get the camber bolts, LT 295/75r16 worked for me. Don't get me wrong, it requires some cutting, and melting, but nothing more than about an hour's work. The truck drives straight as an arrow, looks awesome. I just gotta get the 1/4" spacers - which I don't believe will require hub centric as they won't be far out enough to interfere with the stock hub.

Pics are here. Sorry, please tilt your heads to the LEFT 90 degrees.
If you are having problems at lock spacers would make it worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Maybe, maybe not. 1/4" spaces are very in-expensive. I realize it may make interference with the wheel well a further concern, but its the only way I can think to move the tire away from the frame - that is, without knifing the corner tread of my new tires so to not scrub the frame.
 

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I actually run 235/85/r16 KO2s and i run 48lbs...

BTW, there is a chart on the Michelin page that will give you proper Min inflation based on the weight

Hope that is helpful. You will love KO2s
 
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