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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started a mod to convert my Manual sliding rear window to a POWER sliding rear window. Got most of the hard stuff figured out. Here are a few pictures. I will post more updates as it progresses. I've got the power window unit mounted and setup but I still need to mount the track, do the wiring, and mount the track to the window.



 

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i just noticed this was a KC...damn. was hoping it would have been a titan rear sliding power window swap or something. with the glass that goes down instead of sideways.

obviously...subbed to see the results never the less. this looks like it would be a neat mod. plans for how to switch it into the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looking good! Maybe I can come check it out before you put the trim back on?
Definitely!

i just noticed this was a KC...damn. was hoping it would have been a titan rear sliding power window swap or something. with the glass that goes down instead of sideways.

obviously...subbed to see the results never the less. this looks like it would be a neat mod. plans for how to switch it into the dash?
I would prefer the Titan rear sliding window too but cost and time only allow for this one for now.

I bought a momentary, reversing polarity, switch and I am debating where to mount it. I want it somewhere with easy access. I may put it in my yet to be installed (but sitting on my shelf) 4 switch cluster. I have a 2wd with a pocket where those with 4wd have the switch cluster. I have 3 of the 4 switches accounted for already and may put this switch in there also.

Next step is to figure out the mounting for the window to the track. I have some ideas just need more free time :)
 

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The only feature of the Titan that I liked better than the Frontier was that big power sliding back window!! Droool...

Can't wait to see how your sliding mod works out!
 

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Very cool! At first I thought the Titan's setup adapted, but this will be cool to see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The only feature of the Titan that I liked better than the Frontier was that big power sliding back window!! Droool...
Can't wait to see how your sliding mod works out!
I have not worked on it since, but I plan to get to it this week hopefully.

Very cool! At first I thought the Titan's setup adapted, but this will be cool to see.
Thanks. Not the Titan setup. If the Titan were like the Tundra where the entire window rolls down I might have tried that one but for now this will work for me. Truth be told I can reach my window in my KC but I figured why not try and make it work.

That's cool.....Let me know how it looks when u pau....alright!
Will do! I will stop by when it's finished. I had to cut about 1/4" x 12" notch out of the factory plastic but other than that you should not be able to tell it is there. I also had to relocate my tire jack because that is where I am "hiding" the motor. Other than that everything is concealed.

I will hopefully have progress by the end of the week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I know its been a long time but I shipped my truck to the Big Island so I don't have access to it very often anymore. I made some progress but I ran into a problem which I need to troubleshoot. Here are some pics of the updates so far.


Piece of Aluminum I had my brother mill for me. This piece is supposed to attach the track to the window using 3M VHB tape.


Aluminum piece I had milled (my brother has a mill) to replace the plastic pieces that come stock with the window module. The plastic pieces protrude at an angle which would require more cutting of the rear plastic. I ran into a problem though. I need to add ferrules (sp?). Like those metal pieces that cover the brake cable on a mountain bike brake housing. As you can see in the picture some of grey housing is pulling through.


This is what the whole setup looks like.


Picture of the power motor mounted in the space of the utility jack (on a KingCab)


This picture shows the black rubber housing being pulled through. As a result the housing pulls through instead of staying in place and having just the wire pull through.


Picture of the whole setup
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Finally made some progress...but not complete yet.

I used a dremel to cut a slot in a ferule (sp?) from a mountain bike which will prevent the entire wire housing from being pulled through.

Here's the ferule with the slot


This is the wire housing that was getting pulled through. The ferule will cover this end.


Ferule going over the housing


Ferule over the housing




Hopefully problem #1 solved...


Problem #2 - Need to work on attaching this piece to the window. I tried using the 3M VHB tape but it did not hold as well as I thought it would.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Progress Update

Steps Forward
1) Figured out wiring on the switch. Went with this
I found on Amazon. I'm running similar switches
so I wanted it to match. I have yet to mount the switch.

2) Installed Ferrules and they worked!!! At this point I just needed to attach the window bracket to the aluminum piece. But then I decided to tweak the setup. The motor stops when you let go of the switch or when it senses resistance. In this setup there was a "stopper" on one direction but not the other. See how the "black piece" is flush against the aluminum piece.
The other side does not hit the aluminum piece. So I could have theoretically held the switch too long and it would have kept pulling or put extra strain on the parts that mount to the window until it sensed enough resistance or cracked the window. So I decided to cut the aluminum rail that everything slides within shorter so that the black piece would hit the other side too. So I cut the channel shorter and thought in my head that I also had to cut the wire housing shorter. The housing is essentially bicycle brake housing which consists of an inner plastic tubing, a middle section made out of metal, and an outer plastic covering. Up to this point I had been trying to keep the stock cable together so I got my dremel and cut the middle section made out of metal with a dremel cut off wheel. This went fine. Cut just the metal and not the wire. If I had been willing to cut the wire and re crimp it I could have used my brother's tool which is specifically made to cut bicycle brake cable. That would have been too easy. Those more astute than I will have noticed that I should have added cable rather than cut cable!!! See below "Steps Backward"

Steps Backward
1) So it's Sunday and beautiful Hilo, Hawaii a small quaint town is still rather old school in the sense that not a lot of businesses are open on Sundays (or at least so I thought). Wait for Monday.........Monday bought the brake cables and bought the Crimps and found out they were in fact open on Sunday (one of the few specialty stores open on Sunday). Got home, did some measuring and got the cables installed. Here's a video link
Does not look impressive at all (it did this out of the box) unless you know the background of what went into the entire process. I really over thought this whole thing. Now see step backward #2

2) Then the black plastic thing in the picture broke!!! Look at the date that I started this mod and you will realize that I want to break something by now :mad: Got it fixed with JB Weld
It broke because I originally bent the metal tab which is housed in the black molded plastic to obtain a better mounting angle.

Steps Remaining
1) Mount switch
2) Figure out how to attach the aluminum piece in the previous thread to the "bracket" (which I already made but was too big and didn't fit).

So I don't have much "progress" but I do have a ton more experience and education on this project. I should be able to answer any and all questions for anyone crazy enough to want to do this mod :smile: The only real problem is trying to make the install as stealth as possible. Anyone willing to cut up their rear panel and have more of the parts exposed could just use the stock Honda Ridgeline setup out of the box.

This mod has taught me patience and perseverance as you can tell by my long vent session. This will be completed soon!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Rear Window Power Window Conversion mod

Here's a link to a video of the working power window. The brown strip that you see on the window is the paper backing on the back of the plexi. The pause halfway through is because I released the button to make sure that the window latch did not catch and lock the window. I have since removed the latch so there is no need to worry about it anymore. I will be getting a replacement piece to get rid of the jb welded eyesore. Overall very happy to have gotten this far. I still need to clean it up and do a final install where. But for now it works.

VID_20130628_163931_zps4fdf1c85.mp4 Video by 808UpFront | Photobucket
 

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Ah, damn. I thought this was a conversion for solid rear glass to power like on a lot of Toyota's. I think I've seen it on Tundra's and who knows what else. I'd like the full rear glass that just slides down, vertically. But, it's so low on the priority list. There's literally thousands of dollars worth of lighting before I readdress that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ah, damn. I thought this was a conversion for solid rear glass to power like on a lot of Toyota's. I think I've seen it on Tundra's and who knows what else. I'd like the full rear glass that just slides down, vertically. But, it's so low on the priority list. There's literally thousands of dollars worth of lighting before I readdress that.
I know...I want that window too but I'm happy with this one for now. It is a nice convenience.

808 that is awesome. this would be a real must have for CC owners who do the KC window swap. especially for anyone running a cap.
Thanks man! If I had a CC I would probably swap my glass just for this. The motor only costs like $75 shipped (to Hawaii). There was a lot of trial and error which is part of the reason it took so long but it was pretty straight forward. I can add more pics and do a short writeup if there is interest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
More Pics. My rear panel is loosely on just for pictures. I didn't want to button it up yet because I still need to swap out some parts for Version 2.0 which is mostly cosmetic at this point.

Had to cut the rear panel about 3/4"x15" to allow for the channel for the bracket to slide back and forth.



The brown that you see is the paper backing on the acrylic that I did not remove yet. I am going to replace this piece with a same sized piece of black ABS plastic hoping it looks more stealth. All the silver in the picture will be painted black too. That JB welded piece will be replaced with another one that is not broken.




 

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Very, very cool!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Very, very cool!
I use my rear window now every time I'm in the truck. I hardly ever used it before. It's one of those mods that you don't think you need until you have it. Then once you have it you are like why didn't I do this sooner. The truck cools so much faster now with the rear window cracked open.
 
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