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Discussion Starter #1
So I picked up a spare hood on craigslist and want to try something like this. If you don’t like it I really could care less. All I am asking for is what you guys think would be a good start for materials and if cutting the supports in the hood will warp it? This is not what it is going to look like but it gives you an idea.







Oh and yes something special is going to be in there to show off. Real special :)
 

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Interesting idea. Back when i owned my mustangs, i remember a few guys who cut windows in their hoods to show off their blowers. (i'm assuming you have a similar idea :) )
I like the windows that are smaller and just show off the supercharger...more like the second picture you posted.

 

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I think it looks cool!! Ive never seen that before, cant wait to see how it turns out!!!
 

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2005 KC SE 4x2 4.0L 6spd body dropped on 2s
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Look into Lexan it may be a better material. I wouldn't make the window any bigger than 1/2 the hoods surface area. Any bigger than that I don't think would look good. That green truck is too big of an area. If you get it to match the hoods curves and make a good frame for it on the underside it should look good.
 

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How thick is the material in the pictures? Quarter inch?

Clint
 

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Sounds like a bomb-*** project.

Look into Lexan it may be a better material.
x2. Polycarbonate (Lexan) is much more resistant to shattering and chipping than acrylic (Plexiglas).

Whichever plastic you decide to use, consider shelling out a little extra for the type with an abrasion resistant coating, designated AR. Otherwise, the fruit of your labor will start to look dirty and hazy after a few weeks of driving. Unless you enjoy buffing scratches out of plastic, trust me on this.

If you don't decide to get AR-coated plastic, note that polycarbonate is softer than acrylic, and will scratch more easily.

You're probably okay with a thickness of 1/8" if you use polycarbonate. I would go a little thicker with acrylic, due to its brittleness.

McMaster.com sells AR polycarbonate that has been treated with anti-yellowing agents. A 2'x1' sheet of this material, at a thickness of 1/8", will cost $28.90+S&H.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I am ready to order this. Does this look right? I called them and I am going to order a High Performance Miniature Blades for Dremel-Type Tools. They said this should be good enough to cut it. What do you think? Oh and the tint is light he said you can still see through it. :)

Material
Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate Material
Abrasion-Resistant Polycarbonate

Backing
Plain Back

Finish
Smooth

Shape
Sheets, Bars, Strips, and Cubes

Sheets, Bars, Strips, and Cubes Type
Square Sheet

Thickness
1/8"

Thickness Tolerance
±.006"

Length
24"

Length Tolerance
+1/4"

Width
24"

Width Tolerance
+1/4"

Translucent
Translucent with Gray Tint

Operating Temperature Range
-40° to +200° F

Softening Point
+295°F

Performance Characteristic
High Impact Strength, Weather Resistant

Tensile Strength
Good

Impact Strength
Excellent

Tolerance
Standard

Hardness
Not Rated

Specifications Met
Not Rated

Note
Clear hard-coat finish is on both sides.
 

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If you're going to drill holes in it (like for mounting-hardware) make sure you get the right kind of drill bit. I've cracked plexi using the wrong kind of bit.
 

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It can get mighty warm under the hood.
I would definitely consider the heat (resistance) factor when determining which material to go with.
 

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I work w/ alot of acrylic sheet(plexiglass) @ work. I used to work alot w/ poly. Abrasion is the biggest thing. This struff scratches easy. Im not familiar w/ the abrasion resistant stuff but id deff get it. When cutting i would have a local hardware store cet you close first scoring and snapping (you could do it but its easier if you have a vertical standing glass cutter.) make sure you dont go too fast or slow cutting plastics. sometimes you will cut a line just to have the melted plasic that was just cut fuse back to the other side into a solid piece again. Goodluck! Oh i would recomend 1 /4 for anything that needs strength. 1/8 is probably a little thin

If you're going to drill holes in it (like for mounting-hardware) make sure you get the right kind of drill bit. I've cracked plexi using the wrong kind of bit.
dont get in a hury, let the bit do the cutting not pushing alot and get a wood block behind it. oh and have a rabbits foot to rub on!
 

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I work w/ alot of acrylic sheet(plexiglass) @ work. I used to work alot w/ poly. Abrasion is the biggest thing. This struff scratches easy. Im not familiar w/ the abrasion resistant stuff but id deff get it. When cutting i would have a local hardware store cet you close first scoring and snapping (you could do it but its easier if you have a vertical standing glass cutter.) make sure you dont go too fast or slow cutting plastics. sometimes you will cut a line just to have the melted plasic that was just cut fuse back to the other side into a solid piece again. Goodluck! Oh i would recomend 1 /4 for anything that needs strength. 1/8 is probably a little thin
This would be my concern. I've known people with plexiglass and lexan windows that looked like someone took sandpaper to them from simple cleaning.
 

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kick *** idea.. ive been wanting to do this.. but i dont have anything special to show off.. maybe i repaint my valve cover and add some chrome.. show pix of the process and outcome..
 

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I would brace up the hood FIRST. Then cut out what you want. that way the hood doesnt warp when it week by what you removed.

And I love the idea! Go for it!!!
 

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Very interesting idea. And I think it would project a KA look.

Anyone have any idea on the safety aspect? I'm referring to the fact that all hoods nowadays are designed to crumple in the middle so they don't decapitate anyone in the front seats in a head on crash situation. Will the fact that the poly doesn't crupple be a safety risk? I'm guessing it will be ok since you are only doing a 2' x 2' section, but still something to consider...
 

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There are hooks on the hood hinges to capture it and keep the back end from hitting the windshield.
A good scrollsaw with a plexi cutting blade can do a nice clean job as long as you make the rough cut within a couple inches of the finish cut. Depending on the throat depth of the saw you may go larger. People put packaging tape under the cutting line and it acts as a lubricant and makes it easier to do.

Clint
 
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