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2015 Nissan Frontier SV Crew Cab LWB 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been watching videos on people working on their struts. A common theme seems to be that struts are a PITA to take apart and are dangerous to boot, and that the common 'rent' tools that he chain auto parts stores stock don't work well with high-coil-count springs.

This got me thinking, I have a 20-ton hydraulic press. Is there any reason why I couldn't use it to compress the springs?

Here's what I have in mind:

331092


Lower the table. Use a length of pipe that will slip over both the shock-portion of the strut and the press-foot of the hydraulic press, so that the pipe can't cockeye too much on the press and will push up against the heavy horizontal crossbar. Seat the pipe against what would be the bottom of the upside-down lower spring seat, squishing the coil down against the upside-down top spring-seat, which is itself pushing against the press-table. Reach up from underneath in the gap in the table to thread the hardware on.

Any thoughts? Could bolt something across the front of the frame of the press to prevent an accident from flinging strut parts into one's face.
 

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So, the autozone rental units are ok if you grease them with good grease.

That rig of yours... are the lower plates captive? Or do they skate around...

Id be leary about messing with anything under all that force if those plates deside to nope their way outta there

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A common theme seems to be that struts are a PITA to take apart and are dangerous to boot, and that the common 'rent' tools that he chain auto parts stores stock don't work well with high-coil-count springs.
I bet another common theme is many folks who rent those tools don't know what the vuck they are doing.

If you insist, at least run a heavy chain through the spring and bolt it to the side frames of the press.
 

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2015 Nissan Frontier SV Crew Cab LWB 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So, the autozone rental units are ok if you grease them with good grease.

That rig of yours... are the lower plates captive? Or do they skate around...

Id be leary about messing with anything under all that force if those plates deside to nope their way outta there

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I actually have a piece of plate steel that I could cut to encompass the entire table where it wraps past the vertical frame if necessary.
 

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You can buy the standard two piece tool for like 30 bucks and then just Dremel down the hooks a little bit so they fit in between a higher coil count spring. Thats what I did anyways (I also put two straps around both tools in case they slipped after doing that).

I am sure you can do it by using your hydraulic press, its the same concept that any device is using to compress a spring. Just be careful and make sure you’ve thought through the entire process before starting.

Edit: but like others have said, I think you should record it for posterity’s sake.
 

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Over here! I'll hold yer beer for ya!:eek:
 

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Ask a shop nearby how much to swap them on their wall mounted spring compressor. I get what you’re trying to do but before you can blink it’ll happen
if it lets go. We here don’t want to learn of anyone getting hurt.
I used the compressor from advance auto and they worked just fine. I too have that shop press.

Clint
 

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I'll never mess around with compressing springs ever again....back in the day I was helping Gf's brother with a strut assembly once and it kicked out and was mm from my leg as it shot out like a bullet. We both looked at each other is shock. If/when I get a lift for front I'll be paying extra for a fully assembled spring and shock. If I was you I would just take to a shop.
 

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I have compressed over 20 springs and have never had a failure. I do put a thick carpet over the spring when I am working the threaded rod. These newer style compressor (that you rent) are many times better than the old ones I use to use.

The shop press method looks sketchy as hell. I have done alot of questionable stuff, but I don't think I would even try that one.
 

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Been watching videos on people working on their struts. A common theme seems to be that struts are a PITA to take apart and are dangerous to boot, and that the common 'rent' tools that he chain auto parts stores stock don't work well with high-coil-count springs.

This got me thinking, I have a 20-ton hydraulic press. Is there any reason why I couldn't use it to compress the springs?

Here's what I have in mind:

View attachment 331092

Lower the table. Use a length of pipe that will slip over both the shock-portion of the strut and the press-foot of the hydraulic press, so that the pipe can't cockeye too much on the press and will push up against the heavy horizontal crossbar. Seat the pipe against what would be the bottom of the upside-down lower spring seat, squishing the coil down against the upside-down top spring-seat, which is itself pushing against the press-table. Reach up from underneath in the gap in the table to thread the hardware on.

Any thoughts? Could bolt something across the front of the frame of the press to prevent an accident from flinging strut parts into one's face.
You can do them on the truck. Take the top nut off the strut with weight on the truck. Then jack up the truck and let the spring relax. The top comes apart from the bottom. Use the suspension of the truck as a spring compressor.

To put back together, slowly jack up the wheel (or slowly put weight back on the truck) until the strut rod comes through the top plate. Put the top nut back on and you're done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You can do them on the truck. Take the top nut off the strut with weight on the truck. Then jack up the truck and let the spring relax. The top comes apart from the bottom. Use the suspension of the truck as a spring compressor.

To put back together, slowly jack up the wheel (or slowly put weight back on the truck) until the strut rod comes through the top plate. Put the top nut back on and you're done.
That had come to mind actually. I have a two post lift so lifting and dropping the truck is safe and controlled.

My bigger concern was trying to get stuff out and back in with the kinds of clearances that we have on these front ends.
 

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I've made a custom angle iron frame and attached it to a 3 ton car jack (bottom of angle iron frame pinned with a rod rod under the jack frame, top of frame captures the mount threads) before for doing my own shock/spring compression for assembly when doing aftermarket suspensions on some of my track cars. Quick and easy, slightly sketchy with it pivoting on jack cup area but top is bolted to the frame. I'd do it again as well, just treat it as a loaded gun and keep everything pointed in safe direction.

With that said, I'd rather just pay the extra and have aftermarket fronts assembled by whomever I'm getting upgraded suspension from. It's what I did when I got the OME setup from NISSTEC.
 

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That had come to mind actually. I have a two post lift so lifting and dropping the truck is safe and controlled.

My bigger concern was trying to get stuff out and back in with the kinds of clearances that we have on these front ends.
You might have to pull the UCA? I haven't actually done it this way on a 2nd gen Nissan but done it on lots of other stuff. I think I've only ever had to remove a tie rod end maybe, even with lift springs and longer shocks. But it's totally possible that it's much harder on a Nissan. Used plenty of rental spring compressors too. Good luck either way!
 

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Fun idea, creative to say the least, but that should remain as a drawing. Too many options that are safer and not nearly as expensive as an ambulance ride to risk it for that springy biscuit
 

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2020 Frontier King Cab SV 4x4
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Please just don’t. Not worth it. Just rent the tool.

Tip, verify the threaded rods are straight before you leave the parts store. Ask me how I know


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