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Discussion starter · #102 ·
Not exactly a mod but passed my HAM radio Technician-class exam yesterday with a 91, so by tomorrow nite I may have my sparkly new official FCC ident call sign. Now I can legally broadcast from my Yaesu FT8900r w/o the FCC getting bent.
 
Discussion starter · #103 · (Edited)
did you tap a wire for this or run a new wire from a fuse block?

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This has a new 14GA circuit run to my home-brew engineered and constructed fuse / relay box.
I ran six new wires when I did my power tailgate lock / unlock popper solenoid, knowing I'd be adding more power accessories later, it goes from the rear bumper along the rear half of the frame rail; through the cab vent behind the rear seat, along the driver's side door jambs under the carpet, and through the firewall to the engine bay.

 
Discussion starter · #104 ·
Nice build.

In these pics is the lift installed? I see that in your op it states the lift isn’t installed. Are you running spacers on stock height here?
Thx FrontierGuy, she's always a work in progress. No lift or spacers installed yet, I have brand-new Bilstein 6112s in the boxes waiting to get installed, I'm shopping UCAs now so I don't get any CBC after the lift, might end up higher than 2.0"
 
Thx FrontierGuy, she's always a work in progress. No lift or spacers installed yet, I have brand-new Bilstein 6112s in the boxes waiting to get installed, I'm shopping UCAs now so I don't get any CBC after the lift, might end up higher than 2.0"
In post 41 your tires look like they’re out further than the fenders. Was this preowned, could someone have installed spacers before you buying?
 
Discussion starter · #106 · (Edited)
In post 41 your tires look like they’re out further than the fenders. Was this preowned, could someone have installed spacers before you buying?
It was indeed preowned, I'm the second owner, but the original buyer did nothing to the truck in the way of mods except for a Truxedo LoPro tonneau cover. I installed the hub spacers. They're 1.5" and they look less "poked" in the later photos cause I went from 265/75r16 to 235/85r16, same height, narrower tire. They're from Titan Wheel Accessories, if you're interested.
 
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It was indeed preowned, I'm the second owner, but the original buyer did nothing to the truck in the way of mods except for a Truxedo LoPro tonneau cover. I installed the hub spacers. They're 1.5" and they look less "poked" in the later photos cause I went from 265/75r16 to 235/85r16, same height, narrower tire. They're from titan Wheel Accessories, if you're interested.
Just what I was looking for. I’m planning on a minimal leveling kit 1.5-2 inches and wanted some pics of wheel spacers on stock wheels and stock height or a very minimal lift. I’m thinking 1.25-1.5 wheel spacers to get the tires flush or just a hair past the fenders.

Thank you
 
It was indeed preowned, I'm the second owner, but the original buyer did nothing to the truck in the way of mods except for a Truxedo LoPro tonneau cover. I installed the hub spacers. They're 1.5" and they look less "poked" in the later photos cause I went from 265/75r16 to 235/85r16, same height, narrower tire. They're from Titan Wheel Accessories, if you're interested.

I’m on titan wheel with 1.5” spacers in my cart, there’s a memo stating to make sure your lugs will fit the wheel spacers and if not to order 24 additional. Do I need to add additional lugs to my order? I’ve got a 2017 sv with the stock wheels.
 
Liqui-Moly Mo2S
So I ordered LiquiMoly MoS2 oil treatment. 6 cans are $30, for $5 a hit I'm willing to try it. I know some here believe all oil treatments are snake-oil, and some believe that most are. If no one else has tried it, I'll be willing to be the experimental guinea pig. In the past some MoS2 products have had issues with suspension precipitate and moly build-up in the bottom of the pan. From everything I've read, the Germans have licked this issue and the moly particles are 10 times smaller than what an oil filter captures so I can't see how oil filter clogging could be an issue, as it can be with Teflon-suspension additives, that even DuPont has disavowed.

My biggest concerns are the high-wear surfaces on the camshaft lobes and the spring pressures that the variable valve timing is running. The 370z is an extreme example of this issue and is running a custom-blended oil and sometimes an auxiliary oil cooler to combat these issues in spirited driving. Have a look at the Z forum if you are curious about that VQ's challenges. My wife has a Toyota RAV4 ( just can't quite convince her to leave the Dark Side ) with just under 200k on the clock and we are going to try out both. I see many reports of quieter operation and smoother idle plus possibly a MPG improvement, willing to put $30 on the line to find out. Put it in today and will report after a week or two on what's noticeable, if anything. Only half-way through the 7k-7500 oil change cycle I run ( full synthetic ) so figured it could go in now and not wait for next oil change. 8OZ added as recommended, lets see what it does. The stuff is black as india ink, but thankfully, thinner. LOL.

That’s one of those 50/50’s over on bitog. Lol. At least back in 2009ish when I used to browse there.
 
Discussion starter · #110 ·
I’m on titan wheel with 1.5” spacers in my cart, there’s a memo stating to make sure your lugs will fit the wheel spacers and if not to order 24 additional. Do I need to add additional lugs to my order? I’ve got a 2017 sv with the stock wheels.
I can't answer that for sure, I got new lugs in anodized red and they look quite sharp. I believe the OEM will work, but YMMV.
 
Discussion starter · #112 ·
For those who may be looking for this, here's the SMoD radiator listings. Doesn't affect me as such, as I have a 2014 but for anyone older, check yours for build dates on truck chassis and radiator number(s).
Comes up so often I keep it in my notes.. 😊 - from MiniDuty, thx dude.
21410-EA200 [seldom referenced, but may have been installed in some very early 2005’s.]

21410-EA205 [2005 – either 2/09 or 8/09. Listed on some parts websites as P/N 21460-EA205. There is some confusion as to when these were used. Some literature states until 2/09 and other literature states 8/09. P/N IS ASSOCIATED WITH SMOD. ]

21460-EA215 [2005 - either 2/09 until 8/09, see above. Listed as discontinued and replaced by 21460-9CAOE on Nissan parts websites. P/N IS ASSOCIATED WITH SMOD]

21460-EA265 [production dates unknown other @Surf and Snow's Xterra built in 04/05 and my own Xterra built in 09/05. P/N IS ASSOCIATED WITH SMOD.]

21460-ZL11A [8/09 through 2010 model year, isolated reports of SMOD, however I have not been able to verify.]

21460-ZL31A [production dates unknown. Listed as discontinued on Nissan parts websites , no known reports of SMOD.]

21460-9CAOE [2011 – 2015 model years – no known reports of SMOD] This is the part number for the most current version as of 11/16.

I think one can be confident that the risk of SMOD is nonexistent with the 21460-9CAOE radiator, and probably also with the 20410-ZL31A radiator. It appears that there is some risk with the 20410-Z11A version, and the 21410-EA200, 21410/21460-EA205, 21460-EA215, and 21460-EA265 versions are ticking time bombs.
 
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Discussion starter · #113 ·
So for anyone considering the Katana drop-in LEDs like I did, here's some video showing real-world driving in the 'hood, with the Katana lows and the Katana highs plus lightbars.

 
Discussion starter · #114 ·
Group 31M battery installation, 175 minute reserve, 1140 cranking amps / 940 cold amps. Its a behemoth, it fits with millimeters to spare. Was mega-concerned about the positive battery extender touching the hood anywhere, so wrapped it with electrical tape, then a piece of red split looming, and the butchered remnants of the OE plus-side battery cover unit. There's space, but precious little. This is Block I, I dont like how the cable's sitting so I ordered some new parts, a MicTuning Battery Block set, these have 4 cable ports and setscrews for various wire sizes from 2GA to 10GA and also ordered a Camco Marine 2GA red cable 12" long with 3/8" terminal end, to make a "jumper" from the existing OEM fuse termination block on the battery cables, to be connected into the new MicTuning terminal. That'll lower the profile and clean everything up, which is going to be Block II. I'm going to move the existing battery disconnect / cable extender from the Positive side over to the Negative side, for vehicle servicing simplicity.
330464

330465

330466
 
Nice, probably the biggest battery (both in size and capacity) we can fit in the stock location. Here I was thinking the 24F batteries were the largest. What made you go with a marine battery? Where did you get it and if you don't mind how much did it cost? I've been watching your videos recently to get an idea on the electrical mods I want to do to my truck.
 
Discussion starter · #116 ·
Nice, probably the biggest battery (both in size and capacity) we can fit in the stock location. Here I was thinking the 24F batteries were the largest. What made you go with a marine battery? Where did you get it and if you don't mind how much did it cost? I've been watching your videos recently to get an idea on the electrical mods I want to do to my truck.
Picked it up at the local Advance Auto, about 2 miles away. It was $112.79 after discount, door price was I believe $129.95. It weighs just under 60# and that tells you some about the plate count and thickness. Its not a deep-cycle or Marine, but is industrial / commercial truck rated.
 
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Discussion starter · #117 · (Edited)
Block II install, now with completely revamped battery connections and much much cleaner than Block I, which was mostly left-over parts I had laying around and convenient. I'm betting someone's going to ask why I loopdy-looped the positive battery cable instead of cutting it to length. I could have. Glad you asked. If I ever have to replace the battery at another Advance Auto somewhere out on the road, and the terminals are set different distances than this one is, I can uncoil the cable and reconnect to match. Not all Group 31s are exactly the same.
330614

Camco one foot 2GA battery wire:
MICTUNING 2, 4, 8, 10GA brass coated 4-port zinc battery termination blocks:
Positive and negative battery terminal flexible anti-short covers:
 
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Discussion starter · #118 ·
New six bank fuse blocks in driver's side kick panel, pardon the angle and lighting, getting good video & photography under there is pretty tough.
331060

331061

The upper bank is hot at all times and is fed from a 60a underhood fuse and #8 circuit. The lower bank is ignition-switched 30a - #10 circuit and is fed from my home-brewed fuse / relay centre I built nearly 3 yrs ago. The Yaesu FT8900r 4-band HAM radio I installed earlier is going to be fed from both banks through a simple DPDT On-Off-On switch, so on the fly I can select whether the ignition turns the radio on and off, or whether it will operate stand-alone w/ all the other truck systems powered down. Video of the install to follow later.
 
Discussion starter · #119 ·
More electrical items means more electrical distribution systems and fuses. Now I have 12 extra subcircuits available, 6 HaT and 6 ignition switched. Rear bed power outlet set, both USB and 12v are now on here, as well as Yaesu FT8900r HAM radio on both HaT and ignition switched with a two-poled operation selector, and powered rear window project will be next.
 
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Discussion starter · #120 ·
Parts I & II were the installation of the Yaesu radio chassis itself, and just had a cigar lighter plug hooked to the harness. So decided to get creative when it came time to hardwire, now with a DPDT ON_OFF_ON rocker switch to select no power at all, ignition switched power or hot at all times / direct battery. Worked out quite nice if I say so myself.

 
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