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Discussion starter · #81 · (Edited)
This box fit like it was made to go in there, Pro4 sprayed-in bed liner. Its a Carlon 1-1/2" HD electrical pull-box elbow, made for PVC Schedule 40 and 80 plastic conduit, got it at Lowe's for like $7.00. Mounted it directly below the UtiliTrack back by the driver's taillamp assy. Video to follow on Friday.
Sigma Electric Pro Connex BX – MC – Flex screw-in connector 3/8” Trade Size 1/2” Knockout.
Two 1-1/2" DWV plumbing temporary cap fittings / knockout plugs.
Amazon.com: MICTUNING Pre-wired 12V Dual USB Breaker Switch Panel - Socket Charger 2.1A 1A with LED Indicator and Cigarette Lighter Socket for Marine Boat Car RV Vehicle Truck: Automotive
Total project cost about $35.00 not including wire, which I keep in bulk spools in the garage - shop area.

Oh yeah, BIG NOTE to everybody too who's thinking of doing this or any electrical components and using the bed as a ground point. Drove me crazy for about 5 minutes til I figured out what was going on. I was only getting 5.6v reading at the power socket and when I plugged in my portable compressor, everything in the power strip died. LOL long story short, the bed isn't ground bonded by the factory, its on rubber isolator bushings between the bed n frame, so the electrical conductivity sucks. I added a 10GA black ground bond from the trailer hitch mounting pad for the factory 7 pin hangs-down style socket bracket, since mine's in the bumper and this pad conveniently already has 3 holes in it; and ran that to a bolt, lockwashers n nut that I threaded through a new hole I drilled in a hidden pinchweld area behind the taillamp assy. Clean off the paint to get a good connection and Bingo, 12.3v at rest and compressor is happy. Really Nissan, really?

321838

321839
 
Discussion starter · #82 · (Edited)
Some footage from our off-road venture in Covington VA. Scenery was amazing, the trail was quite narrow in some spots, no guiderails and some fairly nice drop-offs in certain areas, and saw two bear cubs meandering, about 10 to 15 minutes apart. Still combing my raw footage to see if I caught either one on video, hopefully they're there.

 
Discussion starter · #83 ·
One of the fine folk here on CF suggested using a Hyundai Santa Fe cargo net to clean up the rear area of the back seat, for maps, gloves & odd's n end's. Great suggestion, great project, only $18.95. Most Excellent, Ted !!!

 
Discussion starter · #84 ·
Video's from a few months back but just getting around to adding this to the YouTube rotation. LED taillamp bulbs from SuperBrightLEDs.com. Easy install, vibration-proof and should outlast the truck.

 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
While swapping out the serpentine belt and idler pulley assembly, decided to add a little extra bling in the engine bay.

 
Discussion starter · #87 · (Edited)
I finally did a video detailing my roof-mount lite bar and how I modified the supplied mounting brackets to get the required beam angle.

 
Discussion starter · #89 · (Edited)
Not a big mod by any stretch, but here's the latest. A little bling for the grille. Since its cast metal and chrome, it nets you 30HP on a Frontier or 50HP on a clapped-out 1991 Civic with lowering springs, cambered wheels and a fart-cannon exhaust.

 
Discussion starter · #90 ·
One of the first mods I did, but finally got around to a video discussion.

 
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Discussion starter · #91 ·
I didn't create this chart, CF member GlamisDude did, back in 2015, so I'm not responsible for any errors or addenda, but the numbers look legit to me, from 37 yrs in the auto field. Hope these are helpful.

I found this online a few years back and this is something I've had stashed in my tool box for quite sometime now. Every time I work on my truck I reference it. So I thought it would be worth sharing. I've added socket sizes to all the ones I can remember/ have removed before. Please feel free to post ones that are wrong/ missing in this thread if you know it!

Disclaimer:
These numbers were pulled manually from the 2005 Nissan Xterra Service Manual (revision Feb. 2006). There could be errors in translation, typos, mis-reading of the manual, brain farts, etc. Please double checked these torque specs with Nissan. I take no responsibility if you use these specs and something falls off. Original Thread I Borrowed the info from

I will add to this over time. If there is anything I am missing or someone sees that is wrong, please let me know and 'll add it.

Front Suspension:

Swaybar Mounting Brackets: 96 ft-lbs [FSU-5] 19mm
Swaybar Connecting Rod (Both Ends): 62 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [FSU-5] 17mm
LCA Bump Stop: 14 ft-lbs [FSU-5]
LCA Cam Bolt: 100 ft-lbs [FSU-5] 19mm
LCA Ball Joint Nut: 70 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [FSU-5] 19mm
UCA Mount Bolt: 94 ft-lbs [FSU-5] 19mm
UCA Ball Joint Nut: 58 ft-lbs (Replace Cotter Pin After Removal) [FSU-5] 22mm
Lower Shock Mount: 155 ft-lbs [FSU-5] 19mm
Upper Shock Mount Nuts: 22 ft-lbs (there are 3 nuts) [FSU-5] 14mm
Shock Upper Spring Seat Nut: 30 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [FSU-5] 19mm
Wheel Hub Mounting Bolts: 44 ft-lbs (there are 4 bolts) (Replace After Removal) [FAX-5] 17mm
Center Hub Nut: 101 ft-lbs (Replace Cotter Pin After Removal) [FSU-5] 32mm or 1 1/4"

Rear Suspension:
Bump Stop: 14 ft-lbs [RSU-5]
Upper Shock Mount Nut: 33 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RSU-5] 17mm
Lower Shock Mount: 148 ft-lbs [RSU-5] 19mm
Spring Shackle: 77 ft-lbs (Both upper and lower) [RSU-5] 19mm
Front Leaf Spring Mount Bolt: 84 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RSU-5]
Axle U-Bolt Nuts: 53 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RSU-5]
Dynamic Dampener (weight): 14 ft-lbs

Steering:
Outer Tie Rod End Nut: 63 ft-lbs 22mm replace cotter pin

Front Diff (R180):
Diff Mounting Bolts: 135 ft-lbs [FFD-14]
Crossmember Bolts: 96 ft-lbs [FFD-14]
Pinion Nut: 138-216 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [FFD-16]
Ring Gear Bolts: 43 ft-lbs [FFD-16]
Carrier Bearing Journal: 69 ft-lbs [FFD-16]
Diff Cover Bolts: 30 ft-lbs [FFD-16]

Rear Diff (C200):
Pinion Nut: 107-238 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RFD-15]
Ring Gear Bolts: 58 ft-lbs [RFD-15]
Carrier Bearing Journal: 69 ft-lbs [RFD-15]
Axle Bearing/Hub Nuts: 49 ft-lbs (there are 4 nuts) [RAX-7]
Diff Cover Bolts: 36 ft-lbs [RFD-15]

Rear Diff (M226 w/o Locker):
Pinion Nut: 220-500 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RFD-50]
Ring Gear Bolts: 133 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RFD-50]
Carrier Bearing Journal: 80 ft-lbs [RFD-50]
Axle Bearing/Hub Nuts: 89 ft-lbs (there are 4 nuts) [RFD-50]
Diff Breather: 31 in-lbs [RFD-50]
Diff Cover Bolts: 31 ft-lbs

Rear Diff (M226 w/ Locker):
Pinion Nut: 220-500 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RFD-123]
Ring Gear Bolts: 135 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RFD-123]
Carrier Bearing Journal: 80 ft-lbs [RFD-123]
Axle Bearing/Hub Nuts: 87 ft-lbs (there are 4 nuts) [RFD-123]
Diff Breather: 31 in-lbs [RFD-123]
Locker Wire Harness: 89 in-lbs [RFD-123]
Diff Cover Bolts: 31 ft-lbs [RFD-123] 14mm

Front Driveshaft:
Flange Nut: 44 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [PR-5]

Rear Driveshaft (Model 2S1330):
Flange Nut: 71 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [PR-10]

Rear Driveshaft (Model 2S1330-BJ100):
Flange Nut: 41 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [PR-11]

Front Brakes:
Slide Pin Bolt: 32 ft-lbs [BR-22]
Torque Member Bolt: 136 ft-lbs [BR-22] 21mm
Union Bolt: 24 ft-lbs [BR-22]
Bleed Valve: 69 in-lbs [BR-22]

Rear Brakes:
Slide Pin Bolt: 19 ft-lbs [BR-28]
Torque Member Bolt: 76 ft-lbs [BR-28]
Brake Line: 19 ft-lbs [BR-28]
Bleed Valve: 69 in-lbs [BR-22]

Maintenance:
Engine Oil Drain Plug: 25 ft-lbs (Replace Crush Washer)

Transfer Case Fill Plug: 26 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)
Transfer Case Drain Plug: 26 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)

Front Differential Fill Plug: 25 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)
Front Differential Drain Plug: 25 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)

Rear Differential Fill Plug (C200): 36 ft-lbs (Apply Silicon RTV or Equal)
Rear Differential Drain Plug (C200): 36 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)

Rear Differential Fill Plug (M226) (with or without Locker): 25 ft-lbs (Apply Silicon RTV or Equal)
Rear Differential Drain Plug (M226) (with or without Locker): 20 ft-lbs (Apply Silicon RTV or Equal)

Manual Transmission Fill Plug: 25 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)
Manual Transmission Drain Plug: 25 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)

Automatic Transmission Drain Plug: 25 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket) (both 2wd and 4wd models)
Automatic Transmission Pan Bolts: 70 in-lb (Replace after removal)

Engine:
Spark Plugs: 168 in-lbs
Intake Manifold: Bolts: First Pass: 5 ft-lb Second Pass: 21 ft-lb
Intake Manifold: Studs: 8 ft-lb (If removed from Engine Block)
Intake Manifold: Bolt Pattern: Engine Front: 5, 3, 2, 7
Intake Manifold: Bolt Pattern: Engine Front: 8, 1, 4, 6

Misc:
Wheel Lug Nuts: 98 ft-lbs 21mm
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
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Discussion starter · #93 ·
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Discussion starter · #94 · (Edited)
An experiment that turned out to be way more involved than I had initially anticipated. I had the bright idea that since the Firestone RideRite airbags have a very limited internal volume, and so therefor the pressure will vary widely while driving, creating a pogo-ing effect, what if I added snubber / accumulator tanks to the circuits and added at the same time, an option to run the circuits in parallel, or tied together as a pool. So I built the system using Firestone 0.5 gallon pressure vessels and then found out my measuring skills didn't come out to the task and I had to change the plans on where the whole assembly was going to reside. So I mounted it vertically on the passenger's side; between my big steel toolbox and the rear cab wall, and then found out the complex ballet of pipe fittings I constructed to tie everything together, wasn't airtite even after going back and retightening everything once. So I stripped it down to minimum and installed pipe plugs temporarily where the cross-over manifold used to be, until the weather improves and I can have another go at it. Just proves the theory / concept of the age-old "mice n men" thing.

 
Discussion starter · #95 ·
An experiment that turned out to be way more involved than I had initially anticipated. I had the bright idea that since the Firestone RideRite airbags have a very limited internal volume, and so therefor the pressure will vary widely while driving, creating a pogo-ing effect, what if I added snubber / accumulator tanks to the circuits and added at the same time, an option to run the circuits in parallel, or tied together as a pool. So I built the system using Firestone 0.5 gallon pressure vessels and then found out I had to change the plans on where the whole assembly was going to reside. So I mounted it vertically on the passenger's side; between my big steel toolbox and the rear cab wall, and then found out the complex ballet of pipe fittings I constructed to tie everything together, wasn't airtite even after going back and retightening everything once. So I stripped it down to minimum and installed pipe plugs temporarily where the cross-over manifold used to be, until the weather improves and I can have another go at it. Just proves the theory / concept of the age-old "mice n men" thing.
EDIT Update: Never being able to leave anything alone, I went and rebuilt the cross-over manifold again last nite, using most of the parts from before but inserting, and are ya'll sitting down, the flexible braided stainless line for an icemaker feed system. $6 bucks and change at Lowe's LOL. Worked out great, if it's watertight it's airtight too and it doesn't have to have a 350PSI test burst pressure, so rock on and roll on. Oatey HD teflon tape's good stuff, no more leaks. Will prob splice in two more for the main connections to the tanks, just because it looks so much cooler than the generic red plastic tubing that Firestone supplied. The red tubing will remain under the bed, the invisible half, and just the visual part will get the upgrade. You'd never guess I love to tinker, would you?
 
Discussion starter · #96 ·
 
Discussion starter · #97 ·
Mini-mod, a bed-mounted hammer holder.

 
Discussion starter · #98 ·
Pneumatics Part II, where I rearrange some parts for access and looks, and some parts cause they just plain won't stop ....... leaking. Grrrrrrrrr. All fixed now.

 
Discussion starter · #99 · (Edited)
Installed a new Scoshe by Nexar traffic dash cam, just because, it'll come in handy for having another video loop when I finally get to go off-roading again, and also heavens forbid in the event of a traffic incident, it can provide critical video evidence for Court review.

 
Not so evident with the paint colour and lighting, but got 'er good n muddy yesterday in Wharton State Forest. I have 58GB of raw video footage from a GoPro Hero3 Black, Hero4 Black, Kyocera phone and Samsung phone to comb through and combine, including some great mudhole videos that required me to stop, climb out and wipe down the camera lenses afterwards. Thankfully GoPros have fully waterproofed armoured Lexan cases as an option, or I'm pretty sure that would have been the last video ever shot with either of them. Both were mounted on the bumpers, one front and one rear, so the capture angle is pretty impressive, IMHO. Look for a YouTube link to view preliminary footage, sometime this week. The channel's going to be called FrontierGeek, its up already but I have not uploaded any content yet.

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Nice build.

In these pics is the lift installed? I see that in your op it states the lift isn’t installed. Are you running spacers on stock height here?
 
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