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This box fit like it was made to go in there, Pro4 sprayed-in bed liner. Its a Carlon 1-1/2" HD electrical pull-box elbow, made for PVC Schedule 40 and 80 plastic conduit, got it at Lowe's for like $7.00. Mounted it directly below the UtiliTrack back by the driver's taillamp assy. Video to follow on Friday.
Sigma Electric Pro Connex BX – MC – Flex screw-in connector 3/8” Trade Size 1/2” Knockout.
Two 1-1/2" DWV plumbing temporary cap fittings / knockout plugs.
Amazon.com: MICTUNING Pre-wired 12V Dual USB Breaker Switch Panel - Socket Charger 2.1A 1A with LED Indicator and Cigarette Lighter Socket for Marine Boat Car RV Vehicle Truck: Automotive
Total project cost about $35.00 not including wire, which I keep in bulk spools in the garage - shop area.
Oh yeah, BIG NOTE to everybody too who's thinking of doing this or any electrical components and using the bed as a ground point. Drove me crazy for about 5 minutes til I figured out what was going on. I was only getting 5.6v reading at the power socket and when I plugged in my portable compressor, everything in the power strip died. LOL long story short, the bed isn't ground bonded by the factory, its on rubber isolator bushings between the bed n frame, so the electrical conductivity sucks. I added a 10GA black ground bond from the trailer hitch mounting pad for the factory 7 pin hangs-down style socket bracket, since mine's in the bumper and this pad conveniently already has 3 holes in it; and ran that to a bolt, lockwashers n nut that I threaded through a new hole I drilled in a hidden pinchweld area behind the taillamp assy. Clean off the paint to get a good connection and Bingo, 12.3v at rest and compressor is happy. Really Nissan, really?
Sigma Electric Pro Connex BX – MC – Flex screw-in connector 3/8” Trade Size 1/2” Knockout.
Two 1-1/2" DWV plumbing temporary cap fittings / knockout plugs.
Amazon.com: MICTUNING Pre-wired 12V Dual USB Breaker Switch Panel - Socket Charger 2.1A 1A with LED Indicator and Cigarette Lighter Socket for Marine Boat Car RV Vehicle Truck: Automotive
Total project cost about $35.00 not including wire, which I keep in bulk spools in the garage - shop area.
Oh yeah, BIG NOTE to everybody too who's thinking of doing this or any electrical components and using the bed as a ground point. Drove me crazy for about 5 minutes til I figured out what was going on. I was only getting 5.6v reading at the power socket and when I plugged in my portable compressor, everything in the power strip died. LOL long story short, the bed isn't ground bonded by the factory, its on rubber isolator bushings between the bed n frame, so the electrical conductivity sucks. I added a 10GA black ground bond from the trailer hitch mounting pad for the factory 7 pin hangs-down style socket bracket, since mine's in the bumper and this pad conveniently already has 3 holes in it; and ran that to a bolt, lockwashers n nut that I threaded through a new hole I drilled in a hidden pinchweld area behind the taillamp assy. Clean off the paint to get a good connection and Bingo, 12.3v at rest and compressor is happy. Really Nissan, really?