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Beautiful set up OVRLND, I don't think I will ever build mine up so well...a combo of money and skills, or lack of them. Maybe someday.

I will follow along for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Beautiful set up OVRLND, I don't think I will ever build mine up so well...a combo of money and skills, or lack of them. Maybe someday.

I will follow along for sure.
Thank you very much! I can assure you, it has been a learning process for sure. Money wise, bumper, lift and tent were quite expensive, but even then it has been over time. Skill wise, after you drill a 5 inch hole in the side of your truck, and cut your bumper in half with a jig saw, it's all easy after that. Just determination, and a willingness. Oh and you tube. Lots of you tube (for learning) I look forward to seeing what you do too.

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There must be a moment right before you drill where you ask yourself if you are really sure about it...no doubt.
But I'd feel better about cutting a hole than messing with the suspension myself. 20 yrs ago I played with FJ40's and jeeps and bolted and unbolted about everything including engines...but there was something about being a teen/twenty something, that made me braver I guess, plus none of those rigs cost as much as my Frontier, or had warranties to think about (I'm assuming adding a lift voids something?).

I can certainly think of a long list of items I'd love to add (I'd end up with something looking very close to yours), but I'll remain stock for some time I'm afraid.
I also wish I started with a Pro4x to begin with, but with weeks of looking I just couldn't find one within my comfort range. (I wanted a long bed too, but with the hassle I had of cleaning out the garage just to get the regular bed length to fit, I'm probably lucky to not have gotten a long one).
 

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There must be a moment right before you drill where you ask yourself if you are really sure about it...
I know I stopped for a moment before I put the first hole in my 2016! Lit a smoke, walked around the truck... Looked at all the scrapes and scratches in my bed, shrugged my shoulders... Then drilled almost fifty holes in my bed... Four 4' rails have 12 screws each!
 

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You may want to look at Rhino as well. They recently introduced end clips for their rail system that are designed for bed mounting. They can even be altered to support their Pioneer line of platforms.
 

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You may want to look at Rhino as well. They recently introduced end clips for their rail system that are designed for bed mounting. They can even be altered to support their Pioneer line of platforms.
Way too rich for my pockets.
 

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I know I stopped for a moment before I put the first hole in my 2016! Lit a smoke, walked around the truck... Looked at all the scrapes and scratches in my bed, shrugged my shoulders... Then drilled almost fifty holes in my bed... Four 4' rails have 12 screws each!
Putting holes in my truck never bothered me.
I guess doing that to multi million dollar spacecraft cured me of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Added yellow rotopax (keep to the theme?) Dont worry, I'll mark with gasoline use only :) I have these two and a 5 gallon container in the bed for extended trips!


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Added yellow rotopax (keep to the theme?) Dont worry, I'll mark with gasoline use only :) I have these two and a 5 gallon container in the bed for extended trips!
I like the rotopax stuff, just can't afford it right now.
 

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The yellow rotopax are made for diesel right...like "normal" fuel cans? You may want to look into the gaskets, my limited understanding is gas gaskets are different than diesel gaskets...gas will eat the diesel gaskets. Just a heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
The yellow rotopax are made for diesel right...like "normal" fuel cans? You may want to look into the gaskets, my limited understanding is gas gaskets are different than diesel gaskets...gas will eat the diesel gaskets. Just a heads up.
Thanks for the heads up! Did some research after your post, and didn't see anything that out right said it, but based on user reviews, the gas/diesel/kerosene packs were the same, but the water one was different. I will be mindful though now, thanks to you. I do have them mounted spout up, so hopefully if there is an issue, it's not a big deal, and I will empty them in the tank until I can get a new gasket!

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I'm not 100% on this, just have been reading up on jerry cans and found some info over at AR15.com Link https://www.ar15.com/forums/Outdoors/FUEL-CAN-ORACLE/17-643480/

Here is cut and paste on gaskets
" What is the difference between the gaskets?
answer: Cans designed for petrol have a substance called "Viton" that forms the seal. If you are rehabilitating an old MFC for gas/petrol, you need a Viton Gasket. A member here going by "Vatopa" is the gasket man and can probably get you what you need. "Pish posh" you say. "I'll just skip the Viton upgrade and use my regular MFCs for Petrol!!! I'll show them!" OK. but you are going to crack your flange and have to replace the flange portion of the lid AND buy the proper Viton gasket. So why not just buy Viton to begin with? Here's a case in point.

The MFCs that hold diesel have a form of rubber gasket. Obviously if you put petrol in a can with a rubber gasket, the petrol (or according to Vatopa the additives in the patrol) will begin to break the rubber down and degrade it, causing leaks. The water cans have a friction seal instead of a gasket. This means they are not generally suitable for anything but water for long term storage." -AR15.com member "Fordguy" 2011.

It just got me thinking that maybe the diesel rotopak cans may not have gas rated gaskets...?

Lots to read over at the Ar15.com link "fuel can oracle" I don't think they mention the rotopaks can, only "jerry cans"
 

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They use Viton seals in upper grade shocks, King,Fox, etc.
 

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Typically, you will find "old Style" Rubber O-rings in cheap installations where there is no chance of reacting with petroleum additive or by products. These O-rings, typically called Buna, react to many of the additives in fuel, especially ethanol's, and will cause them to break down.

Viton, which comes in varying degrees of durometer (hardness) is preferred for typical roles where buna used to be used. You can get them anywhere. the challenge is to make sure you get one where the durometer matches your requirement. I normally use a middle of the road 75, but for seal and reseal implementation, like a fuel tank lid, i might drop to a softer 55. For hi pressure systems (over 90PSI) I always use 90 Durometer. One we hit around 5000PSI, I look at EPDM and Silicone.

So, while this doesn't matter a great deal to the majority, because I work with Viton a lot in Hi Pressures compression systems, I thought I would throw it out there.
 

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One other minor details is to watch out when you go to fill those. I've had friends who have had the person at the filling station hit the emergency shutoff on them when they have tried filling the "wrong" colored fuel can. Last was a friend who was filling a red can with kerosene and the person refused to let him fill the can despite it being a legit red gas can.
 

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Nice pictures! Which slot canyon did you go to? I did the lower antelope slot canyons during spring break and it was a complete zoo! Beautiful area nonetheless.
 

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Discussion Starter #99 (Edited)
Nice pictures! Which slot canyon did you go to? I did the lower antelope slot canyons during spring break and it was a complete zoo! Beautiful area nonetheless.
Upper canyon. Still a zoo as well. Just had well timed photos :) enjoyed powell beach after in Utah. No one around!

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Powell beach camping in Utah.


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