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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm having that fun overheating while at idle after the trucks been working for some time. Important info in red the rest is jsut back storey.

the things an XE v6 automatic 2004 with 170K on it.

Recently had the knock sensor done, plugs n wires, rear leaf, rear struts, both front lower ball joints, both front struts.

I bought it about a year ago with 150K ish on it, turns out it has had all it's scheduled maintinance done according to and at the dealer. until I purchased it, so other htan minnesota rust and salt things in pretty awesome shape, looks like a slight oil leak at the seal on the bell housing, but nothing more than a few drops a week, just enough to have oil on the houseing but never drip off of it.

Anyway, I use this thing around the farm, to move sawdust, I First noticed the overheating when I was on the 3 hour drive back from duluth on the highway at 70 on a hot day. Got home looked at the radiator it was packed full of sawdust, cleaned it out ran cool. Later I pulled a cultivator around the field, 2 laps and it started to overheat, I unhooked it turned on the heat and drove around just a little faster cooled right back down, so I tryed again, same storey. Now there was still stuff packed in there so I cleaned it out again, and decided not to work it that hard again.. not that it was working very hard maybe 2300 rpm but we'r moving 5 miles an hour oor less sooo meh thats what tractors are for.

anyways months go by I'm out in the woods driving around after a storm, driving over trees and around them thru mud puddles and so forth. I get to a place where maybe I can drive over the tree but is it worth getting hung up? so I walk down trail ways and get back to hte truck touch the front fender as I walk by and it's hot like 180+ degrees hot, get in the truck and the temp gauge is near the top, I get hte truck moving and it cools down.

Now I had been driving it for maybe 2 hours not working it real hard but it was working I've got 2.5 inch bigger than stock tires and most of the ground is sugar sand or mud at this point and rocky so I'm basically rock crawling in mud 50% of the time puttin along at 5-15 miles an hour. Anyways stop at a lake let hte sucker idle walk away less than five min it's heating up again, so I go back to the missippi and fish for a couple hours to jsut let it cool off.

Today I took the fan shroud off and blew out the radiator again some dust came up, looked with a mirror and a flash light and it's pretty clean looking.

However I've spent the rest of the day reading thread after thread of people having hte same issue without any obvious cause's and none of the threads have a listed fix.

I've read over and over again "I cleaned my rad, changed the thermo, flushed the coolant, replaced the fan clutch and the rad cap still same problem"

Now I've noticed one thing it all start happening around the 110-120K mile marker, about the time people do the water pump, or the knock sensors. Both require draining of at least some of the coolant.

now I know my cooling systems been flushed, the water pumps only 60K miles old the belts are good head gasket looks fine Fan clutch is working it has a new rad cap.


another thing I saw in these threads about this issue is that someone almost all ways brings up a new radiator and then the threads seem to die.


my question is, is there a trick to bleeding these? Or does anyone know the fix for this issue? I would like to take this sucker out to cali, and up into the canadian rockies...over hating would be bad.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7wBLjFh_Fg <--Refferance link, have yet to watch more than the knock sensor videos.

sorry about the book
 

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Usually when a vehicle overheats at idle or slow speeds and not at highway speeds, it's due to insufficient airflow through the A/C condenser (if equipped) core and radiator core. This is usually due to a faulty fan clutch that is not spinning the fan fast enough to pull air through the cores to cool the engine coolant in the radiator. Aftermarket fan clutch quality tends to be a bit poor, so if you are going to replace yours, I highly recommend you get a genuine Nissan part. Of course, if the radiator is restricted, it will cause overheating issues. The core temperatures can be checked for hot and cold areas using an infrared thermometer, which run under $20. As far as bleeding, I use a Lisle Spill-free funnel, which attaches to the radiator neck. Turn the heater to maximum hot setting. Pour coolant into the funnel until it rises into the funnel. Loosen the air bleed screw on top of the intake plenum to purge out air and then tighten. Pour more coolant into the funnel if need so the funnel is about 1/4 full. Jack the front of the vehicle up as much as safely possible (or park on a hill with the nose facing uphill); this will help the air move up and out of the system. Start the engine and run about 2000-2500 RPM and you should see air bubbles come up through the coolant and into the funnel. When the thermostat opens, you should be able to notice as you watch the coolant inside the funnel. After there are no more bubbles coming up into the funnel, remove the funnel and install the cap. Make sure you have hot air coming out of the vents. Turn off and lower the vehicle.
 

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2015 CC SL 4x4 - Lear Cap.
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Discussion Starter #4
I drove the truck up on my blocks last night and attempted to remove that bleeder screw ontop, but it is seized, both my father an I where afraid to twist the nut off...also it seems on this vehicle it's a 9.5 mill wich is wrench that dose not exsist..now I know it'sn ot that size, but thats what the micrometer says.

regaurdless I bled it out the useual way, parking the vehicle so that radiator cap was the highest point and nothing came out. Will be attempting some anti seize on the screw later on.

I suspect a new radiator, and thermostat may solve the problem, possibley also a snorkel I have not yet worked it hard enough to see if cleaning it a third time did anything This just seems like a common issue with older fronty's and X's was hoping someone had a solution. (should check the air filter.)

Bobm's link gives me the idea that perhaps I have a slightly slipping belt, I noticed while I was running my truck last night on the ramps that I was getting condensation like mad off the AC condenser hoses (befor I turned on the heat) that where dripping onto the alternator pulley and being thrown all over the engine compartment. Also at idle the vehicle is sucking in hot air from teh engine comaprment I droped a 4X4 in, infront of the lower radiator support and just behind the factory bumper, now it'snt impeeding airflow it's actually pushing more air into the rad/condenser but at idle it would absorbe and radiate heat back at the cooling system and stop any natural convection that would normally go on in the gap in the stock bumper..

what puzzles me is that it hauled wet sawdust 3 (roughly 4-5K pounds per load) yards at a time in a home made dump trailor thru a freshly disced field for four hours without overheating with a partially clogged radiator on a cooler day upper 60's and overcast, idleing 80% of the time

Bumper



Left of 4X4



Right



Under



I've been wondering if I shouldn't just unbolt that thing and drill a bunch of holes in it, it's a 1/4 thick 4X4 steel block probley 35-40 pounds of metal, could be a nasty heat sink. I put this in with the quick disconnect for a winch, because when you or someone else is stuck, you cna't allways drag yourself out forward, this was my thought instead of buying a shock works bumper or osmethign similar for a winch mount, And I've allready used it in both the front and back recivers, the clevis in to anchor hte truck and use the winch to pull things like tractors out, where hte weight of the fronty just isn't quite enough
 

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The bleeder screw head is supposed to be 10MM. Perhaps it has corroded or been damaged? You could use a bolt extractor to help remove it, as well as use a propane torch to warm the plenum around it before attempting to remove it. You can get a new bleeder bolt and gasket from Nissan for around $5 or use a stainless steel, 6Mx1 bolt and a 6MM copper washer from you local Lowes or Home Depot.
 

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Sounds like you need a new water pump if youre not losing coolant anywhere. Have you pressure tested it to be sure? Another thing I'd do first is check the coolant for exhaust gasses with a tester

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Discussion Starter #7
Sounds like you need a new water pump if youre not losing coolant anywhere. Have you pressure tested it to be sure? Another thing I'd do first is check the coolant for exhaust gasses with a tester

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I plan on pressure testing once I can find someone with one, or get time during store hours to buy one.

I'm going ot try liquid wrench on the bolt, and it's defiantely coreded, I feel perhaps sense hte mechanicI took it to to do hte knock sensor useually owrks on GM fleet trucks for a construction company he never bled it thru the bleeder screw and theres just a small air pocket in it.

I hope it's not a water pump, it's OEM and it's only got 60-70K miles on it, all the belts look near brand new on the truck to.

I'm surprised that screw is supposed to be a ten, all three 10MM fit really sloppy on it.

anyway I should have located both the pressure tester and a mod to test for gasses in the coolent early next week.
 

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They will trap a good amount of air in them if you don't purge them. There's a reason they put that bleeder bolt in there! ;)
 

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Another quick and easy test to see if you're getting combustion into your coolant is to just wait until the truck is cool and take off your radiator cap, turn on the engine and if it's shooting coolant out of a cold radiator then your head gasket is allowing combustion to pass into the cooling system

If your head gasket is going but not at the point where your coolant is shooting out of your radiator, I would use a tester also just to be sure.

You can also hook up pressurized air to the cylinders with a leak tester and see if its bubbling out

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Do the fans work? Have you jacked up the front end and bled the coolant of air? Does your coolant boil once the truck warms up? If it's boiling and bubbling up into your reservoir then you have head gasket leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so what do you do when you can't get the bleeder screw out, tryed liquid wrench, wax heat some light tapping, pounded a 3/8'th onto it because a ten was too loose and still managed to round it off. just lift it up with the forklift (making the radiator cap the highest point) and hope it bleeds out or what?.
 

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so what do you do when you can't get the bleeder screw out, tryed liquid wrench, wax heat some light tapping, pounded a 3/8'th onto it because a ten was too loose and still managed to round it off. just lift it up with the forklift (making the radiator cap the highest point) and hope it bleeds out or what?.
At this point I would leave the stuck bleed there, it sounds quite stuck, and you could really mess up stuff way worse.

Do this: "raise the front end of the vehicle as much as you can practically and safely, take off the radiator cap, run half-hour adding coolant as necessary to help purge as much air out as you can. " I just did my own 2004 this way last month after water pump replacement due to leak; I didn't even try the bleeder screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yeah I bent a small wrench on it befor rounding it off...I do not want to drill it, I'd weld a new nut on top befor drilling..this was supposed to be the easiest variable to check...besides the radiator cap
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Can you buy a set of twist sockets and use that?

Or a really good vice grip?

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wehn it got rounded off it got conicle shaped so a vice grip can't grab it, no strait side to grip

I'm a wood turner by trade and do have a machine shop at my disposal but I don't often work on my own vehicles
 

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I don't think that's worth messing with, maybe someone epoxied it in. You could cause an expensive "fix", I'd just use the workarounds posted and bleed off the air traditionally. Like I do with my 1988 Mazda truck - that's a really important one to get all the air out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I don't think that's worth messing with, maybe someone epoxied it in. You could cause an expensive "fix", I'd just use the workarounds posted and bleed off the air traditionally. Like I do with my 1988 Mazda truck - that's a really important one to get all the air out.
I'm not gonna try too hard, I mean it's not coming out, just this is frustrating, and I'd like to be bale to drive this thing in traffic, putting a bigger rad in isn't an option because we go from 100 degree temps in the summer to -40 in the winter I was just hoping to eliminate all the variables before doing the lower radiator support, at which time I would replace the radiator itself if the, thermostat rad cap, fan clutch and pressure test all passed.

at wich point I'd have to bleed it again
 

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If the bleeder bolt is that bad stuck, it may be from corrosion in the coolant system. You may have deposits stuck/built up in your radiator core. Flushing could make it worse if you run it through the radiator. Like mentioned in the other posts: overheating at idle is due to lack of airflow (ie. bad clutchfan)... or proper airflow over a bad radiator.
 
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