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Discussion Starter #1
Year: 2015
Make: Nissan
Model: Frontier
Trim: SV Crew Cab 4x4
Color: Arctic Blue?
Mods: Hefty Fabworks Tube front bumper, Roll-up bed cover

Drivetrain: Stock - Auto transmission

Suspension & Tires: OME Medium duty coils, OME Nitrocharger struts (front), 1/4" tophat spacer, SPC Upper Control Arms, Moog lower ball joints, Cam bolts, Bilstein 5125 shocks (rear), OME Medium duty leaf packs, OME greasable shackles, AllDogsOffroad U-bolt flip kit, 255/86/16 Maxxis Bighorn tires

Armor: Hefty Fabworks Steel radiator skid

Performance: K&N drop in filter

In Progress:
  • Titan Swap Components purchased so far: PRG T/S Heim links & extended brake lines
Figured I would start one of these, in case anyone was interested... This is my trusty steed, I do a good bit of travel. I carry some tools with me just about everywhere I go. I figured I would share my adventures in hopes others don't make the same mistakes I did.

Started out as "oh I'll order this cheap leveling kit from eBay", then turned into a full blown hobby project. My first set of 33's were Ironman Allcountry M/T's. I really liked these tires, however due to mistakes I made they became cupped. Fast forward to the 255/85's, I enjoy these too. I think for the next set I will go back to 285/75/16, mainly because of the availability and so many options.
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For a while, I used the Bilstein 5100 struts with the OME medium duty coils. This was "ok", it was a bit rough. Like everyone else says, the OME coils are best paired with Nitrocharger struts/shocks. Eventually, I replaced the 5100's with the Nitrocharger struts. The nitrocharger have a lower spring perch. Truck rides fantastic.
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Recently purchased & installed the Hefty Fabworks front tube bumper. I was quite excited. However, I'm not 100% pleased with the install. The bumper and skid are awesome - I received mine in less than 2 weeks. My issues is my own fault - last year I had an "incident"... I put the truck in reverse at my home, during turning the front driver fender tore because I ran over a railroad tie... Yes, it was dumb. It tore the fender/front bumper 1 inch from the vertical mount.
The "incident" damage:
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Fast forward to the new bumper install - I was successful, made the cut properly (stupid 1-piece plastic trim). However, because I tore the driver side, it never did line up right. So I took a gamble and ordered the top piece of the "2-piece" front bumper trim design. It appeared to be similar. I coated it with the same bedliner. Installed the trim piece, it still looks "ok". The bottom part of the front grille does not adhere properly to the 2-piece top trim, and the headlights have a gap.
I think I will try some aftermarket headlights and grille from the 05-08 frontiers, since they seem to be the design that fits that trim piece.
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I have a ton of pictures from my adventures, if anyone is curious. I will post more as things happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here is a photo from the bumper install:
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In the process of installing the 05-08 upper trim, I determined I could remove additional components. I don't have photos of that, but point is I ended out removing more than I thought I would.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Why did you buy the earlier trim piece?
I bought that because I tore that part of my 1-piece bumper trim (prior to installing the new bumper). My truck's style (later gen) had the 1-piece trim which extended out to the fender area, exactly where it tore when I ran over that timber. So when I installed the new bumper, it was all jacked up (fender pooching out, etc). My fix was to first try the older style trim since it was a 2 piece design, and all I need is the top piece. The alternate would be to find the full 1-piece trim and cut it again which seems that would be much more expensive.

There is a picture of the tear above, the "incident" damage. You can sorta see in this picture below. That part of the trim was pushing against the new bumper, yet I was (mostly) sure it was lined up properly.
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All in all, it is actually a viable option for those folks with a 1-piece trim and if they don't want to cut anything. Just bringing attention to the fact that the replacement upper trim piece (from the 2 piece design) doesn't fit exactly the same. However, on that note, I'm now considering some aftermarket headlights since they seem to fit the 05-08 style (I guess there was a design change).

Edit: Here is a link to the upper trim I purchased.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Lets discuss lights...

Long story short, I bought LED bulbs of which I thought were the same as the Katana bulbs. They were not. They were waaaaaaayyyyy too bright. There are plenty of threads on this, but point is, the Katana's are what fit best.
I purchased last year the Rough Country LED fog light kit which adds cube LED's (via a bracket) to the stock crash bar. I was pleased with how it turned out, I made a few posts on it. With the new bumper, I simply relocated these cubes to the new bumper.
I wanted to try options with the new bumper, so went on the cheap and bought these 7" round LED lights. I knew they were listed to be 51 watts, but that did not compute in my head I guess - I expected them to be much brighter. They are not very bright. The Rough Country cubes might be as-bright or brighter. This is actually not a huge deal - I would rather not blind anyone else. Since I personally am not a fan of lightbars, I will continue to use these round lights.

Edit: Here are more random pictures, the Okay-est Longbed turning a new "leaf"...
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U-Bolt flip kit, which I cut the monster 5/8 u-bolts too short:
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These were rough to torque... I recommend a big torque wrench, if possible. Torque specs are 150 ft-lbs, which maxed out mine. Coupled with the limited access made this difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Titan swap is complete. Other than taking a while, really had no issues. So far, truck definitely drives different...


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Looks good!

Once you get an alignment and get used to it, they're really not much different from the stock setup as far as feel goes.
 

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Truck looks great. Did some digging for you. I believe you will be interested in this part number

FASCIA-FRONT BUMPER,UPPER
Part Number: 62025-ZL00B

For the '09-current it looks like the SL trim level is the one that has the chrome/2-piece front bumpers.

'05-08
FASCIA-FRONT BUMPER,UPPER
Part Number: 62025-EA800
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Truck looks great. Did some digging for you. I believe you will be interested in this part number

FASCIA-FRONT BUMPER,UPPER
Part Number: 62025-ZL00B

For the '09-current it looks like the SL trim level is the one that has the chrome/2-piece front bumpers.

'05-08
FASCIA-FRONT BUMPER,UPPER
Part Number: 62025-EA800
Thanks for the info... I’m ok with how the EA800 fits. It is different, for sure, but I’ll live with it.

I did spray my grille with Plastidip. Came out ok, considering I’m the worst painter...
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Discussion Starter #15
Truck got a grumble to it now...

Flowmaster 40 series, nothing fancy. First impression was "holy cow this might be too loud"... Still have yet to see, I'll be on the road almost all day tomorrow. I actually like the tone, I didn't have high hopes but I like it.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Replaced the center support bearing. I have u joints but my driveshaft only has 1 which is up at the transmission... Don't see much info on my driveshaft. Maybe someday I'll have a custom one made.

Center support bearing replacement, sometimes carrier bearing, wasn't too bad. Took me about an hour to get the old bearing off. I highly recommend using heat, once I heated the bearing it came right off. New bearing drive on easy with a punch. Replaced the boot even though my old boot was fine.

I believe this weird driveshaft belongs to the crew cab long bed folks. Not positive though...

My driveshaft has two CV joints. Both have some play and make noise. I see the part for the rear CV joint which is the driveshaft connection to the axle, but I can't find info on the other CV joint. Service manual calls it a 2 piece propeller shaft... I think these can be rebuilt, but I've not done that; I'll order the Doorman part 932-002: Drive Shaft CV Joint Rear Dorman 932-002 | eBay

Not sure the advantage of the CV joint vs U joints...
 

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Main benefit to the CV joint is on your pinion angles. Since CV joints don't speed up and slow down through the rotation then a slight difference in angles doesn't cause major driveline vibration. Also all 2wd frontiers have two piece shafts and the CCLB 4wd is the only 4wd with a two piece. As far as I've seen 60" is about the limit for a one piece shaft due to balancing, especially with the aluminum shafts that the short wheel base 4wd have.

I've thought about swapping my driveshaft to CVs but haven't done any research to figure out what it would take. Able to run sharper angles at the joints, less maintenance, and less worry about pinion angles and driveline vibrations all sounds like a win to me. Figuring out how to convert my current one vs buying custom made has been the set back
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Latest project: purchased a used Rough Country MLC-6 Light Controller. Came in, it did not come with any wiring... I figured, what the heck, Rough Country is awesome, I’m sure they will let me purchase a replacement cable.

Not the case. In fact, Rough Country did not have much info on this. I asked for a wiring diagram or pin-out so I could make my own cable, all they had were photos of the connectors. So, I purchased a 9-conductor 18-ga cable from eBay and made my own. All seemed well, then I started testing. Using multiple 12V sources, such as a battery, old computer power supply, I wasn’t getting any voltage at the switches themselves.

Reached out to an electrical engineer colleague to assist with troubleshooting. Long story short, this circuit board has a bit more than is needed for what it is. The circuit contains a voltage comparator... A bit out of my mechanical knowledge. Apparently it compares incoming battery voltage to a reference. Long story short, all my 12V sources were just under the cut-out limit with the comparator. Hooked to the truck, it worked...

So, lots of troubleshooting and not sure it was worth it. I paid $50 for the used controller (relay board and switches), then paid $25 for a 20-ft 9-conductor cable. It was a learning experience. I did replace a rats nets of wiring, and now have expansion room.

I haven’t located a good spot for the switches themselves, just adhered them to the center console for now.
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Discussion Starter #19
Additional side project: bought the axe/shovel mount bracket from another member. Works great!

Also, washed it yesterday...


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