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Ok... now MY truck won't start

35229 Views 32 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  Barrettexas
Saw that there was another thread on this but this one is a little different....

Have an 06 CC SE.

Recently was having problems with the battery and terminals. I had them both replaced Tuesday and everything was working groovy until today. I try to start her up but she's not turning over. There is power to the console as everything turns on and voltage is showing normal(not doing the crazy I'm out of juice dance with the needles when the battery is low). But when I turn the ignition I just hear a simple click.... I have tried turning on and off the alarm system thinking it's been immobilized but it's not working.

I would imagine there might be the possibility that the key has been unmated to the truck when they swapped out the battery, but then, wouldn't it not have worked when I went to pick it up at the dealership?
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Have you recheck the connection at the battery?

Why did you replace the battery?
Have you recheck the connection at the battery?

Why did you replace the battery?
The battery was dead initially because the positive terminal had corroded to nothing, and it had been sitting around doing nothing for over a month. I had the dealer replace the terminals and had them install a new battery. The battery seems to be fully charged and the connections are good.

The only other thing I can think of is maybe the relay for the starter... I'm gonna call the dealer on Tuesday and see what they suggest. If I still can't get it to go I'll try a push start and if that doesn't work I'll have them tow it the 45 minutes to the dealer on their dime. It's still under warranty so hopefully the ride will be covered.
Back to the dealer.

x2
same thing happended to me... but im 6 spd. the little rubber gromet under the clutch wore out. which sends a signal to start it when clutch is pressed down.. $65.00
same thing happended to me... but im 6 spd. the little rubber gromet under the clutch wore out. which sends a signal to start it when clutch is pressed down.. $65.00
I also have the 6-speed and checked it out and it was that stupid rubber piece. Got it working Thanks for the tip!
In the last two weeks my '06 6-Speed has been doing the intermittent no start thing. Can someone help me diagnose it?

* Dash lights all light up.
* Engine does not spin
* There's no solenoid click whatsoever.
* Battery terminals are clean and always have been.
* If the cabin air fan is running, the fan dies when I turn the key
* Battery water was a bit low in each cell, but not by much. I added a little water to each.
* After the 3rd to 6th try, she starts powerfully and just fine.
* No CELs
* 30,000 Miles

Battery, clutch pedal interlock switch? Thanks.
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battery water?? try that rubber gromet under the clutch. as stated above, it happened to me, cost around 65 to replace... no problems since
I looked at the pedal area and the rubber grommet/stopper is in place. I see that there are TWO clutch switches down there in my 4x2. There's a switch at the top that's normally depressed when the clutch pedal is not being pressed in and there's another switch at the bottom that's depressed when the clutch is depressed.

I got on the Courtesy Parts website and am confused because they show two "Clutch Pedal Position" switches:

25325-D40003 @ $16.34 Ea

32325-D40002 @ $84.08 Ea

The parts diagram shows only one switch, but the written listing of all parts shows two switches and there are no photographs of either one. Sigh.

I disconnected the bottom switch and tried to start the truck and it exhibited the same traits as when it won't start, so that may be my culprit. I just wish I knew which P/N to order. Do you have the P/N that was replaced in yours?

Oh, about battery water. You can easily pry the caps off the battery and see the water level inside and the owner's manual has directions on what level to maintain.

Thanks for your help!
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I removed and tested my clutch switch and it's fine. As best I can figure, the two clutch cancel switch relays are for 4x4 6-Speeds and don't apply to my 4x2 6-Speed. (I cannot find the relays; I don't have a clutch cancel switch.)

Advance Auto tests my battery as "Marginal" on their sophisticated machine. AutoZone tests my battery as a bit weak, but okay on their simpler machine.

I even drove to a Nissan Dealer and asked a service writer, but he wasn't aware of any common flaw on Frontiers that might cause this.

I've noticed that on the occassions when it won't start, if I continue to hold the key in the start position (with everything in total silence), in about 5 to 7 seconds she'll instantly fire up good and strong as if nothing's wrong.

I'm thinking about replacing the battery so as to eliminate it from the list of potential bad actors. I'd hate to waste a $100, but the battery will likely need replacing sometime within the year anyway.

Intermittent problems are a PAIN aren't they? Ideas welcome! :-(
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Nuts. Bought a new battery and I still have the intermittent no start problem. Tried my other set of keys and it still did the no start thing.

I think I'll have to take it to Nissan and hope it fails at the Dealer. This could be a very expensive fix by the time every part in the book eventually gets thrown at my truck.
Nuts. Bought a new battery and I still have the intermittent no start problem. Tried my other set of keys and it still did the no start thing.

I think I'll have to take it to Nissan and hope it fails at the Dealer. This could be a very expensive fix by the time every part in the book eventually gets thrown at my truck.
Have you checked your ground connection?

Clint
Thanks Clint. Ground connection is okay. I worked my way through the service manual this morning and I intermittently failed the "Power Supply For Magnetic Switch" test.

That leaves seven potential culprits and I can rule out three of them (Fusible Link, Fuse and Clutch Interlock Switch). The remaining four are Ignition Switch, Starter Relay (in IPDM), Starter Relay Request ON Signal or a bad harness. I'll bet it's the IPDM and I just read on the Nissan TSB site that the whole thing must be replaced. At least it shouldn't be a terribly expensive part. I wonder if it's covered under the powertrain warranty?

At least this might help the Nissan Tech determine what's wrong if my truck decides to be sweet and start up every time when it's at the shop.

I'm going to look in the service manual and see if there's an ignition switch test. I was able to hotwire my '80 Honda within minutes when it's ignition switch went bad, but something tells me that testing an ignition switch these days will be much more difficult.

Thanks again for your suggestion.
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2nd switch on the clutch pedal is for cruise control. if you have cruise, you have the two switches. the one that is engaged at all times when the pedal is at rest is the CC one. when you start pressing the pedal, that switch opens and the Cruise control disengages. The one that is open all the time and only engages when the pedal is fully depressed is the clutch start switch


IPDM is pricey.
Why don't yall just just cut the sensor off the wire and then spice the two wires together instead of paying Nissan 65 bucks? All it does it creates a constant loop so the truck will start without pressing the clutch and is used in manuals with remote start. As long as you pay attention and don't try to start it in gear there's no problems. I loved having this when I had a manual. If you break down you can put it in first gear and keep turning the key so the starter moves the truck to a parking lot.
2nd switch on the clutch pedal is for cruise control. ...
IPDM is pricey.
I noticed the second switch and guessed that it might be for cruise disengagement -- thanks for confirming that.

IPDM is $155.39 at Courtesy Parts; much higher at Dealer probably.

I see a test procedure for the IPDM, but it appears that every function other than the starting relay is tested and that's what I need tested!

Unfortunately I don't have any more time to mess with this and I'll probably take it to the Dealer so that I can get my truck back on the road ASAP. If I was certain that it was the IPDM, I'd buy one and install it. But, I have some doubt. I just hope it won't start at the Dealer so that they can completely diagnose it.
Why don't yall just just cut the sensor off the wire and then spice the two wires together instead of paying Nissan 65 bucks? ...
The clutch pedal interlock switch is fine -- I pulled it, connected it to a VOM and worked it a bunch of times. That was my first stop, but alas it wasn't at fault.

I don't mind pressing in the clutch at start-up, though I always shift to neutral before starting to be old-school safe. (I noticed that driver Alain de Cadenet always does the same before firing up the vintage racers he drives on TV's 'Victory By Design".)

On my old car I did what you describe as a poor man's theft deterrent. I cut the lead and wired up a hidden toggle switch. If the switch was set, you couldn't start the car. (When I sold the car, I forgot to tell the new owner about it. Oh well, he'll figure it out if he follows the wires. <g>) I haven't done it on my Frontier; I just don't want to hack up the wiring quite yet.
LOL, it's kind of a giving fact that you are going to find something with a used car. I seen it happen time and time again. I guess I was a little off about the part that you were talking about.
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