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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey I need to replace my oil pan due to corrosion. My question is should I only use rtv sealant as per the fsm or should I buy a matching felpro gasket to make the install easier/better?

Also, will I have a difficulty getting the old oil pan off with the sealant on there? Can someone recommend a good way to pry the old oil pan off? Thanks.

In the meantime, any suggestions on plugging a pin hole on the side of the oil pan to stop a leak. I tried some gasket sealant but it just dissolves in the oil.
 

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I would use the just the RTV sealant as specified in the FSM. A pry bar would probably help you in getting the lower pan to separate from the upper. Then I would use a plastic scrapper or maybe a putty knife to try and get as much of the old sealant off as possible. Be very careful not to gouge the mating surface on the upper part of the pan. Maybe try using some CRC brake kleen to help get the stubborn remnants off or they also make a spray that is just for gasket removal.
 

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I'd do RTV only, and not overdo it. I also recommend a 1/4-inch drive torque wrench like from Harbor Freight, as those small bolts don't get much torque, you do not want to break any or strip any.
 

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Welding the pin hole would be the best way.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't think any of those bolts are coming out in in one piece. What tool should I get to get those broken bolts out? Can someone suggest a good removal tool?
 

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A manual or cordless impact driver (not the full impact wrench) may help loosen the tough bolts.
 

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I don't think any of those bolts are coming out in in one piece. What tool should I get to get those broken bolts out? Can someone suggest a good removal tool?
What makes you think the bolts will break? it is very unlikely that the rust has made it up into the threads of the bolts.

But if you are that concerned first hit them with some PB Blaster, you can find it just about anywhere that kind of stuff is sold. Then use a nice electric impact driver like one you can pick up at any hardware/tooling store that is used for installing and removing hardware. Don't use your basic drill driver that everyone has.

If you do break off and bolt heads, a good split tip cobalt drill bit with a 100* cut and an easy out will do the job for you. Maybe a little heat from a propane torch the help it out. DO NOT use a basic wood drill bit, this will cause you to damage the block when it slips off of the bolt you are trying to drill.
 

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Hopefully you won't break any bolts off.
If you do the best way is to remove the upper pan.
Option1. Take it to an EDM/machine shop(expensive).
Option2. Drill it out on a milling machine or drill press(minor dia.). If you damage the threads,helicoil repair.
Option3. It's a pain removing the upper pan.I done it before. If you drill it out without removing the pan, making a drill jig and a drill bushing will keep it from drifting.
I know most don't have the tools or equipment to do this so the best options is don't break any bolts.
Most drill points are 118 or 135 degrees.Most cobalt drills are 135 degrees.
100 degree drills are spotting drills or counter sinks. If you are concern,use a center drill first.
 

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Most drill points are 118 or 135 degrees.Most cobalt drills are 135 degrees.
100 degree drills are spotting drills or counter sinks. If you are concern,use a center drill first.
Oops, my bad on that one, you are correct I meant to put 135* for the point, the split point works as the centering drill. But many options out there for someone to pick up and use.
 

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Hopefully you won't break any bolts off.
If you do the best way is to remove the upper pan.
Option1. Take it to an EDM/machine shop(expensive).
Option2. Drill it out on a milling machine or drill press(minor dia.). If you damage the threads,helicoil repair.
Option3. It's a pain removing the upper pan.I done it before. If you drill it out without removing the pan, making a drill jig and a drill bushing will keep it from drifting.
I know most don't have the tools or equipment to do this so the best options is don't break any bolts.
Most drill points are 118 or 135 degrees.Most cobalt drills are 135 degrees.
100 degree drills are spotting drills or counter sinks. If you are concern,use a center drill first.
Whistler, would you mind shooting me a PM with any thing I should keep in mind/look out for/short cuts before I tackle the upper pan job? I have been studying the shop manual, and have the tools to do it and the plans all written up, but it would nice to hear from someone who has done it before.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I drained the oil and cleaned corrosion off the oil pan and plugged it up by smearing RTV gasket sealant on the spot. It has cured and it is heat and oil resistant. Should I give it a try and see how it goes, or is this a really bad idea? I was thinking I could give it a try before going at the oil pan replacement. JB weld sounds okay too, but there is no mention of it being resistant to petroleum products. Just heat.
 

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I used JB Weld on a transfer case on a Subaru. If you clean it properly it should be fine.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

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So I drained the oil and cleaned corrosion off the oil pan and plugged it up by smearing RTV gasket sealant on the spot. It has cured and it is heat and oil resistant. Should I give it a try and see how it goes, or is this a really bad idea? I was thinking I could give it a try before going at the oil pan replacement. JB weld sounds okay too, but there is no mention of it being resistant to petroleum products. Just heat.
If it seals the leak ok, but know that it is only a temporary fix. How bad is the corrosion? Are you able to get a picture? My fear would be that the corrosion will compromise the integrity of part and give you possible headaches later down the line.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Plugged the hole with rtv gasket sealant and then a layer of JB weld for structure. It looks good so I think it may be a good fix. I'll keep an eye on it though just in case.

Thanks for the suggestions!
 

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Wrong thread.
 

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