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I like the Mobil One filter - actually made by Champion Labs.
 

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Yes! I generally use Nissan filters, but, if I do run out, I use Purolator One.
 

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WIX filter. I’ve used WIX Xp but I’ve read the filters for 5k OCI filter better. As opposed to extended drain oil filters. 10k +
 

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BITOG... over the few threads I’ve read... a lot of people come to the consensus that the difference one oil filter makes over another at 95% @ 20 microns* or 99% @ 21 microns* or some say 50% at 15 microns*

It’s so confusing so I came up with my ‘own conclusion’ and tell myself since I’m changing my oil every 5k mile I really wouldn’t benefit from using an extended drain oil filter such as XP.

*numbers could be off. It’s been awhile since I’ve read that thread

 

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BITOG... over the few threads I’ve read... a lot of people come to the consensus that the difference one oil filter makes over another at 95% @ 20 microns* or 99% @ 21 microns* or some say 50% at 15 microns*
It’s so confusing so I came up with my ‘own conclusion’ and tell myself since I’m changing my oil every 5k mile I really wouldn’t benefit from using an extended drain oil filter such as XP.
Taylor you are correct. Once a filter is blocked up with chit, you have no filter at all because it is bypassed. When the advertising bs promotes "extended drain" they really mean it stays in one piece for extended periods, and not that it keeps filtering for extended periods.
Notice it does not say "extended filtering" because once the filter media is full, that's it.
 

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I have been using fram filters my entire life. Never had an issue. Our family car gets OE toyota filters because they are cheap on line. Our ford gets motorcar ft because they are cheap from walmart. Both my nissan pretty much always get fram filters.
 

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Let me just say this: if you have so much debris in your oil that it's going to clog the filter media, then you have bigger worries than just what oil filter to use!
 

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Wish we could find a Motorcraft filter that fits. I use bosch.
Used to use Fram on my Ranger. They wouldn’t keep oil in the top end, had chatter every start up. Put in a Motorcraft with a silicone anti flowback valve. Chatter stopped, did a little research, known issue with Fram. Never using them again.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the reply everyone. I've heard Nissan filters have the anti drain back valve as well as Purolator filters.
 

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Rich... to be honest any oil filter you choose will do just fine. If you don’t drive much 5k miles/yr or less get an extended drain oil filter, change it once a year with synthetic, and call it a day.
 

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Used to use Fram on my Ranger. They wouldn’t keep oil in the top end, had chatter every start up. Put in a Motorcraft with a silicone anti flowback valve. Chatter stopped, did a little research, known issue with Fram. Never using them again.
+1, had the same issue in an older Frontier - lots of noise on startup with the Fram junk - went back to Nissan OEM filter and no noise.

it's not rocket science - if you love Fram watch this --->
 

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Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator. It's a good filter, but just saying... Purolator filters are owned by Bosch and Mann+Hummel. Some of the Bosch oil filters are made by Purolator, who also makes a lot of other brand filters.
 

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As I have stated, I decided to use WIX XP on all our vehicles and be done with it. I'm all for new and better, as long as it IS better. I have a hard time believing that the best filter media is still made from ground up trees.

Fortunately, neither of us need to put a lot of miles on to get where we are going, so I change the oil and filter at 3 months, with a XP and Castrol synthetic blend.

This thread of course got me curious AGAIN and I decided to do some more digging about micron rating, relief pressure and such, as well as the requirements for the engine in the same regard.

So far I have not found much of anything. The regular black Wix has a higher bypass pressure than the XP and provides a micron rate which the XP does not show. All of this is of course useless without knowing the engine requirements.

I believe I'm probably over thinking the whole thing and am just giving myself one more thing to keep me awake at night and waste more time on, so I'm probably just going to put the whole thing to rest and continue on my way.
 

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I always caution anyone against using the K&N with the welded on nut. Have had several friends with failure at that nut, some on motorcycles. One total engine loss and a near crash due to lubrication of a rear tire.

K&N acknowledged the failures and did nothing.
 

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Let me just say this: if you have so much debris in your oil that it's going to clog the filter media, then you have bigger worries than just what oil filter to use!
Yes and no.
If the filter paper has finer pores, it will block far quicker than expected.
If the filter has larger pores, letting all the chit pass through on a daily basis, then yes, it would indicate bigger problems if that blocked prematurely.
The worst part is, you'd never know unless you have a very sensitive oil pressure gauge AND the media doesn't leak.

The bypass filter systems on the big rigs use both filters simultaneously, the full flow filter letting the bigger debris to flow through, and the bypass filter using a very fine filter media to remove almost everything else, albeit at a significantly reduced flow rate.
And dont forget the old axiom "The best oil filter is a good air filter"... or something like that. A lot of grit can enter the system through a leak in the air intake getting around or through the air filter which can make its way into the crankcase through the vent or through the combustion process. So beware of chronic dusty conditions.
 
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