[anvil]

My '05 VQ has the dreaded timing chain noise so I'm scouting around in search of an an OEM kit that has the top and bottom chain and sprockets, guides, etc. But all I'm finding is aftermarket kits (rock auto, amazon, etc.). Every mechanic I talk to says only buy OEM.

Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket kit or suggest a solid lead for OEM nissan parts? Thanks in advance.

 

[glamisdude]

Courtesy Parts (Nissan) is where I ordered all my parts when my guides went bad. They were very good on price and support the forum. No kits that I know of but they'll have all the parts you need.

CourtesyParts | Genuine OEM Nissan Parts & Accessories

This thread was also very helpful when I went thru this (mainly just for the parts needed):
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/15-how-tos/47728-how-change-timing-chain.html

 

[anvil]

Thanks glamisdude. I have purchased parts from courtesy in the past. When you did the guides what did you actually replace? Below is the usual contents of the kits.


(1) - Primary Timing Chain - 210 Link
(2) - Secondary Timing Chains
(1) - Fixed Timing Chain Guide
(1) - Curved Timing Chain Guide
(1) - Lower Fixed Timing Chain Guide
(1) - Primary Lower Tensioner
(1) - Upper Tensioner LH
(1) - Upper Tensioner RH
(1) - Crankshaft Sprocket - 26 Teeth
(2) - Camshaft Sprockets

 

[glamisdude]

All i had replaced were the secondary timing chains and their corresponding guide shoes, as well as the o rings called out in that thread. The truck only had a little over 60k miles on it when they went bad so I didn't see the point of replacing everything else.

Most recommend changing the water pump when doing this service. That link to the xterra thread will show you what others have changed as well.

 

[anvil]

My '05 has 156k so it would be wise replace all critical components while it's apart, including the waterpump, primary chain and gears.

 

[smj999smj]

I've done four of these, already. In my experience, the guides show little or no wear unless something has broke. There is also no need to replace the gears, as they typically show no wear, as well. These are multi-plate links, not like the old style, roller links used on cars in the '60s and '70s. I would look up the TSB on the job and order everything on the list, with the exception of the sealant. Instead, get Permatex Ultra Grey Rigid High Torque sealant that comes in a tube that is used in a caulking gun; it will make installing the sealant a whole lot easier! In addition to what's on the TSB, I would get the primary chain and primary chain tensioner, a Nissan thermostat, a water pump and coolant. If your serpentine belt squeaks or has close to 100K miles on it, I would get a new Bando belt and a belt tensioner from Rockauto.com (you can get the water pump there, as well). CourtesyParts.com or NissanPartsDepot.com are good places to get genuine Nissan parts.

 

[anvil]

Solid advise @smj999smj. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[anvil]

Primary Chain Tensioner

Any idea of the primary tensioner part number? I just see the primary chain part number only.

TIMING CHAIN for 2005 Nissan Frontier|13028-ZS00A

 

[Mrnutts]

Do you have to remove the back cover if you replace the entire Tensioners and not the Plastic piece? I know you don't have to with just the plastic piece.

Someone stated on this forum that you would have to remove the back cover in order to change out the entire two secondary tensioners.

 

[blkfir]

Any idea of the primary tensioner part number? I just see the primary chain part number only.

TIMING CHAIN for 2005 Nissan Frontier|13028-ZS00A

This is what I came up with. 13070-9BM0A.

 

[smj999smj]

Do you have to remove the back cover if you replace the entire Tensioners and not the Plastic piece? I know you don't have to with just the plastic piece.

Someone stated on this forum that you would have to remove the back cover in order to change out the entire two secondary tensioners.

You have to remove the back cover in order to get the upper tensioner bolts out...so, "yes."

 

[Katanamo73]

I think most mechanics are recommending using OEM timing chains not because of quality issues with aftermarket chains, but because of the marked/colored links on the OEM chains that help you line up on the sprockets and such. Aftermarket chains may or may not have the markings/coloring.

 

[Katanamo73]

It's very likely you won't actually need timing chains. The chains are usually in good shape and very serviceable unless your tensioners have failed in such a way that the chain gets damaged. Replacing just the tensioners should do the job without having to replace the chains. Having said that, the OEM chains are not all that expensive really if you want to change them out. I just saw my timing original timing chains (I've been the only owner and bought it new in 2006) today and they look like they are new still. I have just over 120,000K on the truck. 2 out of the 3 tensioners were worn badly. Actually, the tensioners themselves weren't worn, but the plastic/composite guide rails were. Still with the 2 in bad shape, my truck wasn't making any terrible noises. Had I not had a low oil pressure at idle issue, I would never have considered replacing the tensioners and guides.

 

[smj999smj]

It's very likely you won't actually need timing chains. The chains are usually in good shape and very serviceable unless your tensioners have failed in such a way that the chain gets damaged. Replacing just the tensioners should do the job without having to replace the chains. Having said that, the OEM chains are not all that expensive really if you want to change them out. I just saw my timing original timing chains (I've been the only owner and bought it new in 2006) today and they look like they are new still. I have just over 120,000K on the truck. 2 out of the 3 tensioners were worn badly. Actually, the tensioners themselves weren't worn, but the plastic/composite guide rails were. Still with the 2 in bad shape, my truck wasn't making any terrible noises. Had I not had a low oil pressure at idle issue, I would never have considered replacing the tensioners and guides.

The tensioners get worn through because there were issues with the stamping of the links from the manufacturer, which is Borg-Warner. Therefore, the upper timing chains have to be replaced or the same thing will occur, again. There's a TSB on the issue instructing to do just that.