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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all quick question for you audio pros
I have a 14Pro4x with the Fosgate system which of course includes the little 6in sub under the backseat.
My question is can I and is it worth it to upgrade just the sub using the oem amp, just basically wire up a new sub. I have a single 10in lying around from my last Frontier and though the Fosgate system is nice, I would like just a bit more bass than the little 6 inchers provide.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Ok all so here is what I gathered so far. I wired up a Sony 4ohm 10in to the stock amp. From what I understand that when bridged the stock amp is putting out 4ohms as well so I bridged it trying to get the most outta the 10in. Well honestly the oem sub sounded better. I seem to have lost some low end. It does power it up and sounds decent at high volume but I was used to having more bass at low volume.
Here is the thing, I am completely satisfied "for now" with the stock Fosgate HU. It does all I need to do. I like the OEM amp for the door speakers, I think it sounds good enough for me. So what is the simplest way to add a dedicated second amp for the sub? Or should I get a multi channel amp and change out the oem one? My preference is to add another amp though. Any insight would be awesome, I know you guys are out there...,thanks in advance
 

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You can add another amp but it's a bit of a PITA since the stock HU has no pre-outs. You have to tap into the stock wiring with a converter for the high level input. It still works but not as neat and tidy, or as efficient, as doing it with an aftermarket HU. This is what I'm currently running to power my upgraded front Infinity components. Still running the stock twin 6" RF subs (which are actually Clarion units oddly enough) until I get around to upgrading the HU to the new Pioneer NX8200 I've been drooling over. At that point I'll replace both amps with a larger 5 channel and go to a 10" sub.
If you want a little cheater advice to boost your bass, pack a couple of moving blankets in front of the stock RF sub enclosure and you'll get better low level sound out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the reply Nomad. The converter is what seems to keep coming up in my research. Another question you may know though, since I got the RF setup with an amp already under the seat couldn't I tap the converter into the speakers going into the amp? If so, should I tap between HU and amp or amp and speakers?
Correct me if I am wrong but this is what I was kinda brainstorming.
Buying a dedicated amp for the sub
Buying a line out converter to tap into the speakers to run to new amp
Buy amp wiring kit like normal, maybe short rca jacks if converter is next to oem amp?
Thinking of wiring remote wire to cigarette lighter in center console,
Umm think that's about it. Kinda trying to stay away from taking out the head unit all together really but have no problems doing it if I have to .
 

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Line-level converters go after any factory amplification.
 

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Do it once and do it the right, easier way.

I started by buying an amp with line level inputs and wired it off of the amp output. Worked great until stock speakers self destructed. I then **** canned all stock RF equipment including speakers and ran all new wires for speakers, 3 way active up front, components in back and modified stock sub box so 8" sundown audio sd4 would work. Sounds super wasn't hard to do after getting rid of stock wires, which are a nightmare to work with. Ditching stock may sound bad but if you want any quality ou have to, the RF system is better then stock radio but is still junk. Buy a five channel amp, speakers, head unit of choice, a JL audio W3 8" 4 ohm dual voice coil will work with stock sub box great, maybe not perfect size but just make a new front same width and height of stock box, cut hole for sub in it and mount to stock box and cut plastic out. Run your cable, fill it lightly with hollow fill and mount your sub. Fits perfectly under seat. It's a little work but if your going to take on screwing with factory wiring it's a lot less work, head ache and time. I did it the hard way first and wish someone told me to shitcan everything before you do a thing because no matter how you do it, it's going to still sound like ****, just better. You won't be happy with results until it's all out of there and replaced with quality equipment, which if you do your homework can be had for a few hundred bucks if you wish or a few thousand. The cheapest name brand head unit out there when hooked to a name brand amp will be miles ahead of your stock stereo, and you still can have all of your steering wheel controls also. I didn't do much homework or research and had to take first grade over again, learn from my mistakes. Once you start, there's no stopping. Do it once and be done. Here's a couple pics of sub during experimentation and final product.
 

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