[Nomad 13]

Excellent glamor shots/pics!!
I love the warning rollover sticker on the new tires.
The truck on the warning sticker even kinda looks like your truck ....LOL

Thanks!
Yeah, I thought so too, that's why it cracked me up haha.

I was just thinking how much better yours looked than mine when you honked at me today. I think I should drop it off at the Nomad detail center and have it cleaned up!

Absolutely! For a small fee I'll doll it right up for you ; )

 

[TruckIt]

What is this fee? From what I see, it would likely be worth it!

I unfortunately can't join the fun this weekend. Still have crap to get out of the old place this weekend so we can get it cleaned and out of our hands.

 

[JB'sFrontier]

Looking good keep at it!

 

[Nomad 13]

Been a while since the last update but got a couple items checked off this week.

Got the new XTP IMS installed this week. Went ahead and swapped out the plugs for a new set of ridiculously overpriced iridium units while i had the plenum off.

And it only took a year but I finally got the DK LCAs bolted up. Really digging them. They made some improvements to the stock geometry. For one, the shock mount is 5/8" taller and a tiny bit closer to help get clearance from the axle. It nets close to 3/4" of difference, which meant that I could ditch the 7/8" spacer I installed on the CO after the swap and still end up with pretty much the same lift. Also adds a small amount of angle on the balljoint so that the arms and axles are much flatter with the same amount of lift. Now I just need to get it back to the fab shop to get the hydro bumps installed.




I have a couple more items sitting in the garage that I hope to get knocked out this coming week so stay tuned.

 

[crewmaxxis]

Well, I installed my fancy new alternator the other day so here's a quick play by play of the wrench work. Was actually easier than I thought it would be considering where Nissan hid the damn thing.

First, remove this so you don't start an unintentional welding project/campfire.


Then remove this so you can get to the belt tensioner


Then put a 3/8 drive ratchet in the tensioner to release tension and pull the belt off of the alt and P/S side.


Then remove this


By removing these


Like this


So you can actually see this


Pull the 12mm nut off of the B+ lead on the rear, top of the stock alt (the one under the little red hat) and remove the plug next to it.


Then remove the 12mm bolt from the bottom, front right and the 14mm bolt from the top, front left and you're ready to remove the old alt. And YES, it does come out the hole with a bit of finesse!


New vs old





3 things of note:
First;
if you look at the pic above you'll see a little jumper harness in a small white box. This is needed to convert the 3 wire stock harness to 2 wire for the new alternator. Do not panic, it's supposed to be there. Just plug the jumper into the new alt and plug the other end into the stock harness.
Second;
notice the B+ stud is in a different location on the new alt. This is also by design in order to clear the new rear mounting bracket. Your stock harness should be just long enough to reach the new location. If you need a little bit of extra wiggle room you can release the clip on the main eng harness right above the alt and get a little bit of extra slack in the harness, you don't need much if any.
Third;
the new rear mounting bracket spacers were about 1mm short on mine so the alternator mounting points wouldn't quite slide over the mounting boss on the block. I fixed mine easily by removing these washers from the bolt side of the bracket here. (Steevo says he'll talk to DC Power about this btw)


And putting them under the bracket like this


Once that was done the install was mostly a reversal of the removal process with one exception.
The threaded sleeve on the 14mm alt hanger bolt is press fit into the stock alternator; you can see it here


The corresponding element on the new alternator is not press fit, it is floating. This is by design and it works fine. However, IF you live somewhere where corrosion is an issue it would be in your best interest to liberally coat the threads in the new sleeve with anti-seize at minimum and maybe even have someone tack it in place so you avoid the inevitable cursing involved when you go to remove it one day and the sleeve just spins instead of allowing the bolt to loosen. Just my .02. I added a bit of anti-seize to mine just to be safe.

So slide the new alt over the mounting boss, slide the old 14mm bolt through the front bracket, mounting boss and rear bracket, start the threads on the threaded sleeve and tighten it down through the large hole in the rear bracket until it seats against the mounting boss. Then give the lower mounting bracket a bit of a nudge, you might have to loosen it just a hair as the new alt is slightly smaller, and install the 12mm bolt. Tighten both bolts to specs.
Then plug the harness jumper into the alt and harness, wrangle the B+ lead into the new stud location, tighten it down and you're almost done.
The B+ stud on mine lined up a bit too close to the main eng harness on mine here


so I worked a tiny bit more slack into the harness to keep it clear so there would never be the possibility of the stud rubbing through into the harness (just a bit of OCD from someone with previous experience and a serious dislike of eng fires). And btw, the stock B+ wire looks to be 4ga so there is no reason to have to upgrade it believe it or not.

Once all that's done you should now be looking at this


So slap the belt back on and it'll look like this


Just make sure the belt is properly aligned on all of the pulleys before you start it up.
Then reinstall the intake tubing and neg batt cable and crank it up to make sure everything is in working order before you put the fender liner back in so you can see everything.

This is the new beast at idle with just the stereo on. It charges almost a full 1.5 volts higher at idle than the stock alt did at 2500 rpm!


And even with the dual air system running and the stereo on it still charges almost a full volt higher than the stock unit at 2500 rpm :woot:


Just a little side note; as an added bonus this bad boy cut my air up time on the 35s by over a third! Couldn't believe how fast the OBA aired the tires back up yesterday after the trail run! Awesome ::grin::

Well there you have it. I'm pretty happy with the purchase all things considered. Yes, it's a SPENDY little piece of shiny, new tech but considering the stock replacement is even more expensive it's tough find a reason NOT to upgrade, especially if your stock unit is failing. This little beauty puts out more amperage at idle than the stock Pro-4/SL alt at max output!

Feel free to hit me up with any questions and let me know if anyone would be interested in me making this a stand-alone DIY thread for future reference.

best write up ever!

swapped mine in about 15 mins.

 

[LittleBull]

Couldn't be happier with the Odysseys! The CCAs and reserve power are out of this world and the warranty support is simply phenomenal. They found a slight decrease in load capacity and replaced it no questions asked. That being said they do like to see higher than typical charging voltage to keep the batteries happiest so it's advisable to upgrade your alternator. Other than that it's a no-brainer. I'm a customer for life.

I think I'm going to upgrade my alternator and batteries too. I'm liking this RR alternator,
and since I've got the OEM and a Bosch auxiliary battery, It looks like I might do better
if I have a pair matching Odysseys.

I just upgraded my OEM ground wire to a 1/0 gauge so that the current sensor will pick up the
full current draw of both batteries. While checking the electrical system I noticed that the
conductor between the alternator and battery has a 140 amp fusible link in the circuit.

Did you have to change the fusible link in your system ... notice any problems with it?

I don't do much off roading, but I have a power invertor and OBA that run ... well ... power
and air tools for pretty long periods of time, mostly with the truck at idle speeds. Since I
usually work " Off-the-grid" it's just me and my truck. I don't need the truck to fail.

 

[Nomad 13]

Did you have to change the fusible link in your system ... notice any problems with it?

I don't do much off roading, but I have a power invertor and OBA that run ... well ... power
and air tools for pretty long periods of time, mostly with the truck at idle speeds. Since I
usually work " Off-the-grid" it's just me and my truck. I don't need the truck to fail.

I didn't mess with the current sensor or the fusible link and mine works fine. Dash gauge and the BD gauge pod both read the higher voltage. If you're looking for a reliable system for off the grid you'd be hard pressed to find a better set up. I run a lot of elec components including the dual compressors and nothing so much as causes a blip in the output.

 

[Nomad 13]

New winch showed up yesterday. Just upgrading to the 2nd gen X2O 10k from my 1st gen X2O 8k. Mostly to make it easier to drag Crewmaxxis out of the hole next time he blows something up :thefinger: The 2nd gen also has a wireless ready controller so that's a big plus that I'm looking forward to trying out.


Don't remember if I mentioned it but I finally got some rocks lights under the truck just before Moab so I'll get some pix of those up here too.

Also picked up my newly refurbished COS from my buddies at Radflo. Best crew out there, hands down. Also had them add some resis while they were at it.
I think I have found a fab guy to install my hydro bumps too so hopefully that'll be checked off the list soon.

I think that's about it for now.