[robert8096]

I did a welcome post in the new members area about me and the truck. Here is the condensed version. Son blew up first engine in the truck. Wife had engine replaced with junk yard engine by very poorly skilled mechanic. I am now seeking the forum's knowledge to help me get the truck back on the road.

I did a compression test and oil pressure test on the engine. I have 185 lbs of compression all cylinders and 17 lbs of oil pressure with the engine warm and transmission in drive. Have about 22 lbs at operating temp and in park.

Here is a link to the video of what it sounds like hot or cold. I'm thinking a timing chain job is next on my list. Opinions greatly appreciated.

Thanks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj4hjPDDIE0&t=28s



Pictures of the old girl.

 

[Ed Mc]

Hokey Smokes, Bullwinkle! Sounds like a box of rocks! :surprise:

Definitely time to pull the timing cover for a precursory check. You'll be able to see the upper timing chain and maybe peer down the timing cavity with a light to check things out.

The KA24DE uses shims to adjust the valve clearances and man would they have to be worn to cause that much noise! I'd say more likely it's timing issues. Maybe one or both tensioners has failed, or a chain guide busted.

Let us know what you find when you pop the valve cover..........ed

 

[robert8096]

When the wife got the truck back the mechanic told her all that noise was from a bad power steering pump. I removed all the belts to prove to her that was not the case. He said it needed a new pump because the steering was real hard to turn. I could grab the belt and pull it an inch or so with the adjustment at its max. Replaced the belt and the steering is working fine.

I did pull the valve cover and didn't see anything that jumped out as being the cause of the noise. Top chain looked good with just a little wear on the plastic chain follower. Couldn't see much of the lower chain. Definitely going to replace the timing chains and the front crank seal since it is leaking oil badly.

If the chain repair does not fix the noise I'm going to inspect the head and camshaft some more and possibly remove the head and replace it or send it off to the machine shop to be rebuilt.

Strange thing is it runs good with just a little flat spot when shifting from third to overdrive. If you blip the throttle real quick it will die but I remember that happening when I had the truck a few years ago.

I'll post up when I start the process of replacing the chains. Going to order the parts today.

Is Nissan like other manufactures and have part of the VIN in the serial number of the engine?

It had a major exhaust leak between the exhaust manifold and the down pipe. Below is what I found between the two. It does not even belong there, replaced it with the correct gasket and all is well.

 

[smj999smj]

I would do a valve clearance check before pulling the engine apart. While it's not a common thing for these to go out of adjustment, since they are solid lifters (bucket lifters with shims), it's possible that someone in the past replaced a camshaft or had it apart and didn't put everything back from where it came from. It would at least give you peace of mind that the problem definitely is due to the chains and it doesn't take long to check the clearance; you'll have the valve cover off, anyway. Just turn the engine until the cam lobe is away from the lifter and slide a feeler gauge between them to check the clearance. If you do replace the timing chains, I highly suggest you remove the oil filter and lower chain tensioner and blow clear the oil channel using carb or brake cleaner and compressed air. Also, remove the upper tensioner and the timing main gear and blow that channel out, as well. One of the issues with the KA24DE engines is that sludge can build up in the oil channels to the chain tensioners which causes low oil pressure at the oil-fed chain tensioners, causing the chain(s) to slack and create noise.

 

[robert8096]

Thanks for the great advice. I have ordered the cam chain kit and don't know the history of this engine so I am going to change the chains, tensioners and gears. I'll do the valve clearance check before I remove the blanacer and blow out the oil passages while doing the chains.

 

[The other Sean]

A stethoscope or even a long screwdriver with your ear placed to it can go a long way in diagnosing a noise. With that said, I would also check the valve clearances before tearing in to it.

 

[robert8096]

I need to add a stethoscope to my tool inventory. I did use a long screwdriver and most of the noise is coming from the front part of the valve cover. Still had a little noise near the back but nothing like the front part of the cover.

 

[robert8096]

Had time this weekend to work on the little truck. Started disassembly and other than two missing and one stripped bolt in the power steering pump area it went well. Once I got clear access to the crank bolt I did a valve clearance check and all readings were within the specs. I did notice the upper chain was snapping when I was hand rotating the crank while doing the valve check. Looks like the upper chain tensioner is stuck, lower one looks to be in working order. Timing set will be here today but I won't get a chance to work on it again until this weekend. Going to be a slow process reassembling the engine because I want to clean up the parts before I put it back together.

My oil pan had a cork gasket but the service manual refers to using RTV. Do I need to see about a new gasket or just use RTV?


Some pictures for your viewing pleasure.

 

[smj999smj]

Cork gasket would be an aftermarket part, meaning someone was in there before. RTV sealant was used from the factory and would be what I would use. There is some sludge on your engine parts, meaning that oil changes probably weren't a priority in its past, and I wouldn't be surprised if sludge in the oil channels to the tensioners is at least part of your problem.

 

[robert8096]

I was thinking the same thing.

 

[robert8096]

Finished the chain install this weekend. Still got a few issues to work out.

One is my knock sensor is disconnected and I cannot find the connection for the sensor on the wire harness. The sensor was disconnected when I got the truck back from the so-called mechanic. I checked around where the grounds and water sensor connect on the intake manifold and also looked from underneath the engine and don't see the connector. Did some research and found two places it may be, one near the front where all the grounds connect to the manifold and the other is behind the throttle body. I didn't check around the throttle body so I'll canvas both areas again. If someone has a picture of where the connector is on the harnesses please post it.

Second is when the engine is warm and I shut it down for a few minutes (like running into the convenience store to by a drink) when I start the truck it will start, run for a few seconds then shut off. Now if I rev the engine once it starts then it will idle like normal.

Here is the after video. In the video you can hear a knock when I rev. This was with the timing set at the manual recommended 20 degrees. If I drop the timing to 15 degrees then I don't get the knock but the engine is a little sluggish. Timing was set with the TPS disconnected.