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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, I know how to use the code reader and have confirmed it working on my other vehicles.

I had to change the head gasket. After getting it all back together I get no spark and no fuel pump. I tried to see if there were any codes to be pulled and only got an error message.

Ideas? Could it be the ECU? Is there any other one component that could cause this collection of errors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I will add that the CEL does not seem to illuminate at any point after I turn the key on. All the other lights seem to cycle, but no check engine light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
UPDATE

The EGI fuse is blown...it wasn't obviously blown but it failed a multimeter. I replaced it and was able to check codes (none) and could hear the fuel pump prime. It blew after a moment (quite obviously) though. There is clearly a short somewhere. Is there a common issue that can cause the EGI fuse to pop?
 

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Look for any wires near your repair that's caught and shorted.

Clint
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did that first thing. I couldn't find any that were damaged.

My plan today is to just unplug everything from around the head and see if the fuse still pops.
 

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Just from what you said this problem came about after your HG replacement correct??? These are the hardest and your looking at it because it isn't just a run of the mill failure that 20 or 100 other people have had its really boils down to something that occurred while ripping it apart or stitching it back together. That's the likely place to start looking and going over everything you've touched most likely either something wasn't correctly hooked up you crimped something.
Its a fusible link not just a fuse think it can be anything hooked up to starting something that takes power like starting so something you hooked is shorting be it alternator starter coils even injectors and list of possibles goes on but I would look at the pictures you took before ripping it apart start there and back track you'll find it. I know it's tedious but unless you go to a master Auto electrician that'll actually track it down for you all anyone will do is replace your engine harnesses till they figure it out
 

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Hate saying it but feel every wire you might even need to pull apart your looms to get to the right one ones? and it could just feel rippled kinda bubbled just means it carried to much that could be your short if you hit it at the right angle and especially go over everything you remember touching or is in close proximity when you were putting your crap back on And wish you luck
 

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When I replaced the cam positioning sensors in my pathfinder the light was still on and thought the sensor was a new but defective part. It turns out upon inspection that when I plugged it in I inadvertently bent one of the pins and even thought the connector clicked it didn't matter. I straightened it, reconnected it and all was right again. So go undo any plugged in item and make sure the pins are straight and reconnect. You may find a short at a plug, not a bad wire.

Clint
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alright I've gone over every wire and connnection around the head and found nothing. The fuse isn't popping until the fuel pump starts priming. I went to try and disconnect the pump and see if it was the problem but it seems like I have to drop the tank to get to the connection.

What else could pop the EGI fuse?
 

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Anything on that circuit that is powered by the EGI fuse can cause the fuse to blow if it's shorted. It would be a good idea to download a factory service manual and get a wiring diagram to see what's on that circuit. You can get to the harness connectors on the top of the tank if your arms aren't too big if you remove the left-rear wheel and work around the frame rail. It's tight, but doable.
 

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Really need to find somebody that understands electrical theory and knows how to troubleshoot such circuits to put eyes on it. Discounting something because it is hard to get to is not a good practice.
 

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What's being discounted and who is discounting it?
Your statement on access to the pump.

You did not have this problem before the initial work and cursory visual inspection by you does not show anything. So you need someone that can read a diagram and understand electrical theory and short to grounds. Highly unlikely you had a component failure just pop up. Odds are you have a shorted wire and a person with good troubleshooting skills with eyes on it, is way better than stabbing forum member guesses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Your statement on access to the pump.
Can you point out where I said "the pump is hard to get to so it's obviously not the problem"? The fact that the fuse blows with the pump primes pretty well identifies the pump as the source of the amperage draw.

And I've looked at the diagram. There don't seem to be any other components that could easily draw enough amps to pop a 20 amp fuse except via a short in the harness somewhere...which I haven't been able to find. I might have missed something. Hence asking.
 

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You are stuck on word play. I have said my peace on the subject. Wish you the best on figuring it out.
 

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Said this when you started this thread in beginning and just from prior experiences, screw ups, doing thing while tired,rushing or how ever you wanna say it. I just find it very hard to see how working on your head caused a problem to come about with your fuel pump for one just for the fact they are opposite ends of the pick up unless you shorted it somehow when you working putting your head back in. Once I had a wire go bad leading to the coil on a car it wasn't broken through the sheathing but after a week of looking it over and testing every mother#$%#@^ wire I finally found the break I had only changed the plugs on it never thought I even hit the wire but it was broken and found out it was when I had tried to start it. I'd keep looking where you were working somehow I believe your missing something and even if you gotta break it back down to point of taking the head. Keep posting on what your findings are
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've already disassembled back to the head to check connections...but I don't believe the head work and the the fuse blowing are related. The truck came to me in a no-run condition and it doesn't blow until I turn the key to run and the fuel pump starts priming. I'm virtually 100% sure it's the fuel pump...it's sat for a year, I'm thinking it might have gummed up or something and it's drawing too many amps getting going. Until I can crawl in there and check, though, I'm wanting to make sure all my other bases are covered.
 

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I've already disassembled back to the head to check connections...but I don't believe the head work and the the fuse blowing are related. The truck came to me in a no-run condition and it doesn't blow until I turn the key to run and the fuel pump starts priming. I'm virtually 100% sure it's the fuel pump...it's sat for a year, I'm thinking it might have gummed up or something and it's drawing too many amps getting going. Until I can crawl in there and check, though, I'm wanting to make sure all my other bases are covered.
makenzie71 ok I see now I just didn't see anywhere in your thread that said you had a DOA with unknowns when you started working on it for the head now were getting somewhere pull the tank! so you can rule out the pump. Now do you know how long was it sitting before you got your hands on it? was where was it stored? I live in N Texas and in one night a car I had a Camry got wammied an had wires chewed along with lot of other people a few years back from rats. Freakin things ate a ton fuel injection SPwires fuel pump some wires going to a secondary junction box even chewed the windshield washer line it took me over 2weeks of going to junky to get pigtails an crap but it was a lot less than the 6k they wanted to rewire the whole car my friend even had a line going to her transmission hose chewed plus all wires they totaled her car hate saying this but it really helps to have cause and effect and you don't have that to me this is time time time an unless you've got the time to go through it and dedicate time to it your grasping at straws and just might need that auto electrician I wish you luck
 

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I just read your answer sorry I didn't read it all before I'm on my phone alright so its a year that's a plausible conclusion Ive never seen a pump pull enough amps to blow the fuse though usually they'll just seize an quit
 
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