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I put this on the 4 banger lounge, but I thought it would be interesting to see if other models and engines had these type of problems? Thanks.

Can’t Nissan build a decent chain adjuster??

I am very disappointed in Nissan. I purchased a 98 Frontier 4x2, 4 cyl brand new. I gave it the very best of care. After only 160K miles the lower timing chain adjuster failed. The adjuster is a curved aluminum part with a plastic piece, not even bonded to it that the chain rubs against. The plastic piece wore thru to the aluminum and caused the unit to fail. I had to tear the engine down removing oil pan, front covers etc. to get to the chain and adjuster. This repair will cost me hundreds of dollars and much of my limited time. The dealer wanted $1750 to repair this, and their mechanics have seen this a number of times before.

When I look at the adjuster that failed I think what a krappy built part that is. For such a critical part, couldn’t Nissan build something of quality? The plastic piece is only held to the aluminum by plastic tabs. The wear through point was on the top where the adjuster plunger pushes against it. Like there is too much pressure there?

I think the expectation for Japanese motors is that you should get at least 300K miles with any care at all. Maybe belts, alternators or such but not the main engine to fail. I might as well have bought a damn Ford.

Seems the company should at least offer a replacement part that is upgraded? I have to replace with the same poorly engineered part. I wanted to keep this truck till I die, but I guess I’ll have to sell it and find something else, as I’ll wonder when the adjuster will fail again. Has anyone else had this problem?
 

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The copy/paste isn't needed and just takes up bandwidth.

I would consider yourself lucky. Anything that is plastic/nylon riding against metal will wear down. Depending on what oil you used, how often you changed it and what filter you used will affect the parts life. I would think that 160k is good and that fixing the truck and selling it just to buy something else isn't the best idea unless you have the funds available to do it without debt.
 

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Perhaps it's just me, but 160k isn't too bad. If you are considering getting a whole new vehicle just because this one didn't last 300,00 miles then I think you are a bit unreasonable.
i'm with you on this one. i've never really understood how anyone can get past the 100k mile mark and not expect that sometime coming up something in the engine will probably fail or need service of some kind and you can expect that from any manufacture regardless of country of origin. its just how it is these days. are there modern gas engines that make it over 200k or 300k miles without engine problems, sure but there are also engines that don't make it to 100k with a problem like this. not trying to bash you but it is a bit on the unreasonable side with modern engines and to be honest generally once the tensioner guild wears through you can here it. its like the wear indicator on a brake pad and is supposed to be your que that work needs to be done and just like brakes if unnoticed or ignored damage will be done.
 

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I bought a 94 Frontier in 98, had 48k on the odometer. Drove it for 6yrs with no problems. Sold it with 178k miles on it. Driving habits help in determinig longevity of the vehicle too. No stomping on the throttle, overloading the truck bed, or heavy towing, etc... definetely affect longevity. I would think you got your money's worth.
 

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While 160k isent terrible life , I do believe any chain related part should generally last the life of the vehicle or at least 250k with oil changes done on time.

Theres always a few bad apples, but the KA24DE is def one of Nissan lower mantinence engines.
 

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While 160k isent terrible life , I do believe any chain related part should generally last the life of the vehicle or at least 250k with oil changes done on time.

Theres always a few bad apples, but the KA24DE is def one of Nissan lower mantinence engines.
You ever own a domestic V6 or 8 before? They dont last, any moving mechanism that last 100k mile is great, consider all that that part has been through, and then tell me you could build it better. Its an automobile, things wear out.
 

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I think this kinda failure is a bit unusual for a 4cyl. I know guys with 250K on theirs without issue.
Then again, I have seen people blow up their engines at 50K. Too many variable to say it was a quality issue.
 

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You ever own a domestic V6 or 8 before? They dont last, any moving mechanism that last 100k mile is great, consider all that that part has been through, and then tell me you could build it better. Its an automobile, things wear out.
Are you kidding me, 100k on almost any well maintained engine is low miles to me.
What do you mean they dont last?
I have seen plenty of domestic v6, and v8 engines well over 100k.

BTW timing guides arent really under any extreme stress.
Timing chains are nothing new ,and I have never really seen any real problems from any make with the exception of the latest nissan vq40 issues ,and the Dodge Intrepid 2.7 .
 

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After 160k you think about how many times that chain has been around that guide, I'm not surprised at all. There are too many variables to account for why other's got xxx more miles on theirs. Unfortunately I think there's a bit of planned obsolecence built into cars these days, added with crumple zones and the like for a crash, make cars/trucks just about disposable items now. Tranny bad? R/R it, melt down the old one to make a new one. My 07 Caliber with 33k miles on it started putting oil in the coolant mixed with some metal shavings. Now that is totally unexpected and unacceptable, and hence why I got rid of it. Good luck with the fix, but with that amount of miles on it, I really don't have any sympathy.
 

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I just traded a 99 SE 4X2 with 305000 miles on her and not once did she leave me hangin', or cost any more than the usual upkeep, the biggest job was an alternator. These were a bunch of hard miles, hunting and running dogs.
 

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I know this is irrelevant to the topic, but seeing how miles are being talked about, my wife has a 2003 Neon that has 340,355 miles on it, and no motor work:hi::fantastic:
 

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Didn't ride in this truck or anything but I'm a machinist and a steel chain rubbing aluminum would make a sound from in the cabin...the kind of sound you investigate asap.
 

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Didn't ride in this truck or anything but I'm a machinist and a steel chain rubbing aluminum would make a sound from in the cabin...the kind of sound you investigate asap.
i wore the guides out in my 350z at a little over 100k and that was 100k of high rpm (higher than stock) on the road course almost every weekend and never a day that it didn't see redline atleast 10 times. so basically i dont' think 100k was early for it but trust me you hear it. it sounds like a supercharger which defiantly got my attention cause i knew turbos didn't make any sound like that so i knew it had to be something in the motor.
 

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This thread is retarded.

Waaaa, my 15k new base model 4cyl wont last me until I die without putting a penny into it...waaaa.

So you bought the base model of all base models, drove it 160k without any problems, then are *****ing when you have to get your hands dirty one time...

Im willing to bet you didnt take that good care of it if your *****ing about the first time it breaks down and how it wont last you until you die.

Id be stoked if my 07 4.0 made it 160k with no problems. You realize you made it 12 years right?

This forum needs to stop just *****ing about our trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the replies. I'm just having sour grapes. I've had other Nissans and toyotas that went 350K without major problems. I did change the oil every 3K. I have been using Castrol GTX. Maybe a synthetic oil would be better? I really like this truck though and will keep it after I fix it. Mostly. I just wonder if I could figure out why this happened? Or if others have had similiar experiences. Since the curved lower chain adjuster wore through at the top by the plunger and not evenly through the whole curve, it makes me wonder if the pressure was too great by the plunger and spring. I think oil pressure pushes on it too. I don't know - seems there must be reasons for things?
Thanks SM
 

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I use mobil 1 because its simple great but if I was going to use a conventional it would be castrol so thats probably not your problem and I wouldn't go switching to synthetic with 160k, maybe to a high mileage gtx or something.

But anyways $1700.00 bill for something that has been care free for 12 years is decent bro think of a $400-$500 a month payment for 12 years lol you did ok. And remember if the dealership charges $1700.00 you could probably get it done somewhere else for $600.00. The dealership is my place to get parts only... their way to high, they wanted $1100.00 bucks to do my timing belt,water pump and,belt tensioner a mechanic I went to school with done it for me for $200.00. Fix dont trade, it will probably last much much longer.
 
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