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Discussion Starter #1
Good day,

I've recently put on a set of Goodyear Wrangler Duratec tires on my stock steel wheels with zero issues. These things seems great so far. For such nice looking tires i wanted them to stick out a litter further, so i installed 2 inch hub centric wheel spacers and they look even better. Yes I know wheel spacers ane not safe and I need to check the torque often and bla bla bla, regardless I've made up my mind and they are staying on the truck. Sorry to offend. The problem is that i get rubbing on the air damn/Valance(?) thing under the front bumper and also on the mud guards when i go near full lock turn. I know i can remove them, trim them, use a heat gun or whatever else, but Id like to keep them all on, for now, for the time being. Here's the question: If i do a 2 inch leveling kit would the rubbing go away? the physics and my small brain tell me yes, yes it will. but i'm new to big tires and lifted trucks as i come from the opposite side of the fence.

Thanks in advance for your support and positive advice.

-Mark
 

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Firstly, we need to know what size tire you have (275/75/16). Secondly... I have a 3" Lift and 285/75/17 on my KC 4x4 and they rub even after I removed the valance/flaps. Once I do some melting/pounding they won't rub anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
P265/70R16, I expect an answer now, Just kidding. But seriously, the tires are rubbing on the bottom of the valance and the bottom of the mud guard, regardless of the tire size would a level kit that raises the front 2 inches via spacers and shackles change the rub?
thanks
 

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P265/70R16, I expect an answer now, Just kidding. But seriously, the tires are rubbing on the bottom of the valance and the bottom of the mud guard, regardless of the tire size would a level kit that raises the front 2 inches via spacers and shackles change the rub?
thanks
It will still rub. If not at rest it will rub when the suspension bounces and you turn.

If you get a 2" body lift, it will probably get rid of the rub.
 

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It will still rub. If not at rest it will rub when the suspension bounces and you turn.

If you get a 2" body lift, it will probably get rid of the rub.
+1 on the rubbing still being a problem. I agree with 2" of lift with that tire, though I wouldn't rule out some melting/trimming.
 

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I know you said you didnt want to do any mods or trimming but if you have to , check out Raines build thread.
He has a very detailed post with instructions and pics for trimming the lower valance , mud flaps and pinch weld.
I believe in this post he had 265 tires and rims with a large offset.
See post 152:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f103/raine-s-2014-4x4-keira-build-thread-218506/index16.html

See post 169:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f103/raine-s-2014-4x4-keira-build-thread-218506/index17.html
 

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Nothing wrong with good quality spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the reply's everyone. You can punch me in the face if you ever see me but what is the difference between a body lift and a leveling kit?

I shouldn't have to worry to much about rubbing and bouncing while turning because it relay only effects/affects me in parking lots. these trucks already have a terrible turning radius and now its slightly worse. when it rubs everyone in the parking lot instantly stares at me and thinks my truck is broke.
 

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Thanks for the reply's everyone. You can punch me in the face if you ever see me but what is the difference between a body lift and a leveling kit?

I shouldn't have to worry to much about rubbing and bouncing while turning because it relay only effects/affects me in parking lots. these trucks already have a terrible turning radius and now its slightly worse. when it rubs everyone in the parking lot instantly stares at me and thinks my truck is broke.
Hahahaha no worries, we all have to learn! A body lift is just that, you put spacers between the frame and the body of your truck. Leveling kits (some use blocks like a body lift) generally affect suspension w/ coil spacers and leaf spring drop brackets. Leveling kits are better in my opinion, but that's just me!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hahahaha no worries, we all have to learn! A body lift is just that, you put spacers between the frame and the body of your truck. Leveling kits (some use blocks like a body lift) generally affect suspension w/ coil spacers and leaf spring drop brackets. Leveling kits are better in my opinion, but that's just me!

Thanks dude, I thought they were the same thing for some reason. I was looking at a 2 inch leveling Kit and i think 2 inches would relay set these trucks off.
 

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I did 3" Front/2.5" rear... but the CC are higher than my KC is.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, i broke down and did some trimming and heat gun forming. I gotta say it looks way way cleaner with that valance thing trimmed off. My heat gun decided to be a POS in the middle of the job and loose the ability to control the heat output so it would erratically jump up to 1200 F and melt a couple areas. all in all it was worth it. I think ill still lift it a couple inches though.

thanks again for the reply's everyone.

-Mark
 

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Did you adjust the caster with the cam bolts. That move the wheel forward and helps reduce rubing.

The reason a body lift helps with rubbing and a leveling or suspension lift doesn't is because:
A body lift, lifts the body higher away from the suspension and wheels/tires. This will immediately gain you the clearance to clear the tires. People tend to frown upon BL because it raises the center of gravity of the truck, is considered "cheap", and often leaves an unsightly gap between the bed and the frame. However from the factory many trucks have a body lift between the 2wd and the 4wd. It is also the simplest way to achieves the bigger tire no rubbing solution you seek.

A leveling kit simply jacks the suspension higher. Your suspension allows the tires to go up and down. That is point many people don't understand. The suspension dropped down as well. From the factory, lets say you have 50/50 split. half of your suspension travel, the tires go up into the wheel well, half of it it drops down to catch the truck as you go off a curb. A leveling lift changes this split when the truck is as rest to say 80/20. The suspension still cycles in the exact same path. And thus if you rub now you still still rub after, just not when the car is at a stand still.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Did you adjust the caster with the cam bolts. That move the wheel forward and helps reduce rubing.

The reason a body lift helps with rubbing and a leveling or suspension lift doesn't is because:
A body lift, lifts the body higher away from the suspension and wheels/tires. This will immediately gain you the clearance to clear the tires. People tend to frown upon BL because it raises the center of gravity of the truck, is considered "cheap", and often leaves an unsightly gap between the bed and the frame. However from the factory many trucks have a body lift between the 2wd and the 4wd. It is also the simplest way to achieves the bigger tire no rubbing solution you seek.

A leveling kit simply jacks the suspension higher. Your suspension allows the tires to go up and down. That is point many people don't understand. The suspension dropped down as well. From the factory, lets say you have 50/50 split. half of your suspension travel, the tires go up into the wheel well, half of it it drops down to catch the truck as you go off a curb. A leveling lift changes this split when the truck is as rest to say 80/20. The suspension still cycles in the exact same path. And thus if you rub now you still still rub after, just not when the car is at a stand still.
So far I did not adjust the Cam bolts. I think the rub is gone for now, i guess well see what happens overtime.

That's a great description of the differences between leveling kits and body lifts. A friend mentioned getting extended shocks after but that still wouldn't compensate for the front "80/20" (hypothetical) split. some good points to think about.

thanks again.
 
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