I have 2011 S model truck with factory radio. I want to replace just the HU, and keep the factory speakers which I understand are 2 ohm. I bought a Pioneer HU, but after reading in it's owners manual the stern warning about not connecting speakers with less than 4 ohms, I am returning it. Does anyone have a suggestion for a 2 ohm HU, either single or double Din?
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I am trying to avoid adding the extra expense, and wiring of an external amplifier. I had hoped to just replace the HU to get some more features lacking in the stock HU. I could replace all speakers with 4 ohm, but again, the added expense, and work involved removing door panels. Wonder what others have done when just replacing the HU?
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Be more specific - what model Pioneer? I can check the specs
DEH-X6900BT
Here's the owners manual:
See page 19 for connection info with the impedance warning
See page 26,27 for specifications
https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-X6900BT_OwnersManual070616.pdf
Thanks for the help
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I have a Pioneer AVH 5800. Front speakers are still stock 2ohm, rear 4ohm. I have not had any issues for past 6+ months. Just don't crank it till you get around to replacing hte speakers. Alternately you could add a 2ohm 50Watt resistor in-line of each speaker.
Update:
Yesterday: I talked to Technical support at Crutchfield about the 2-Ohm/4-Ohm issue, and was advised not to use the Receiver with my factory speakers. He told me to call customer service, and see if they can suggest a Receiver that can handle 2 Ohm speakers.
Today: I called Crutchfield, and discussed my issue. I was assured that the Receiver I purchased would indeed work without issue with my factory Nissan 2 Ohm speakers even though there is an impedance mismatch????
Today: I called Pioneer Tech support and was advised to NOT use the Pioneer DEH-X6900BT Receiver with my factory 2 Ohm speakers. Also, if I do want to use the Receiver, I should replace all 2 Ohm speakers with 4 Ohm speakers.
Total confusion to say the least......
Yesterday: I talked to Technical support at Crutchfield about the 2-Ohm/4-Ohm issue, and was advised not to use the Receiver with my factory speakers. He told me to call customer service, and see if they can suggest a Receiver that can handle 2 Ohm speakers.
Today: I called Crutchfield, and discussed my issue. I was assured that the Receiver I purchased would indeed work without issue with my factory Nissan 2 Ohm speakers even though there is an impedance mismatch????
Today: I called Pioneer Tech support and was advised to NOT use the Pioneer DEH-X6900BT Receiver with my factory 2 Ohm speakers. Also, if I do want to use the Receiver, I should replace all 2 Ohm speakers with 4 Ohm speakers.
Total confusion to say the least......
Are any of these sources telling you WHY to not use the HU?
I don't think it will reverse the rotation of the Earth or anything.....
Yes - Driving 2 ohm speakers with an amp that is rated for a min. 4 ohm load will produce heat, and eventually ruin the amp (receiver)
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- Pioneer will tell you "no" because they won't advise against what the manual says, for warranty and liability purposes.
- True, driving a 2-ohm speaker with a 4-ohm only amplifier may have effects down the line, but your head unit puts out a claimed 50wx4 (more like 14wx4 RMS from what I've read) and your OEM speakers are only rated at 3w. Your OEM speakers will blow before any damage happens to the head unit... the OEM speakers aren't not drawing a lot, and the receiver can push more than what the OEM speakers are rated at.
- I too ran my OEM rear speakers off my head unit (about 22wx4 RMS) for over a year and a half just fine.
- So yeah, like @mtyler11 said - just don't crank it, and upgrade the speakers when you can. You won't want to crank it up anyways because the new receiver at higher volumes will show your ears just how crappy the OEM speakers are. When you have the means to I'd recommend (at minimum) either:
A. upgrade to a decent set of 6.5 or 6.9" components up front, and disconnect the rears, or
B. A coaxial 6x9 up front and matching 6.5's in the rear if you want passengers to have some sound
Thanks everyone for the suggestions/comments. I decided to not send the HU back, and just give it a try. I really want the features of new HU, especially the remote, as I have my seat all the back, and the station tuning button on the stock HU is on the far right. I don't listen at high levels so until I replace the speakers, it might survive the impedance mismatch.
I do have to figure out how to remove the window crank from the door panels. Don't laugh, it's a basic truck that has crank windows, and the millennial anti-theft devise option::smile::
I do have to figure out how to remove the window crank from the door panels. Don't laugh, it's a basic truck that has crank windows, and the millennial anti-theft devise option::smile::
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65 Posts
Here follow this for removing the window crank.
http://nissanhelp.com/diy/frontier/projects/nissan_frontier_door_panel_removal_procedure_1.php
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
http://nissanhelp.com/diy/frontier/projects/nissan_frontier_door_panel_removal_procedure_1.php
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
2023 Frontier SV CC 4x4 in Gun Metallic (with convenience and technology packages)
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I debated running my new deck with a 2 ohm load, but instead I decided to wire each side's front in series with the rear to create a 4 ohm load and just use 2 channels of the deck for the time being, until an eventual speaker upgrade. I put my deck in today and I'm well pleased with the sound, it's even bassy at low volume levels.
Concerning speaker power draw, this is going to be a function of the ohm load and the voltage they are getting. Volts (based on volume setting) divided by the 2 ohm load, equals current, and then that current multiplied by the volts equals wattage. It doesn't matter if it's a factory speaker rated for 3 watts only, or a pair of $150, 2 ohm Infinity Kappa's. 2 ohms is 2 ohms. The speakers will draw what they draw based on the voltage in and whatever ohm load they are.
The deck is maybe capable of putting out more than the factory speakers could take, but basically, with half the impedance that the deck should normally see, there is suddenly a potential for twice the current flow. So now there could be a situation where the deck puts out more power than its even supposed to (same voltage into half the ohms, twice the current, therefore twice the power), and then damage occurs. On a 2 ohm load you will reach max output of the deck long before the volume cranking ability is tapped out. The speakers may start sounding crappy long before that too, but there is still the chance that some people would turn the volume up beyond where they should (happens all the time), and not know where to stop, and with half the ohm load that makes it way worse than if it was a 4 ohm load.
Concerning speaker power draw, this is going to be a function of the ohm load and the voltage they are getting. Volts (based on volume setting) divided by the 2 ohm load, equals current, and then that current multiplied by the volts equals wattage. It doesn't matter if it's a factory speaker rated for 3 watts only, or a pair of $150, 2 ohm Infinity Kappa's. 2 ohms is 2 ohms. The speakers will draw what they draw based on the voltage in and whatever ohm load they are.
The deck is maybe capable of putting out more than the factory speakers could take, but basically, with half the impedance that the deck should normally see, there is suddenly a potential for twice the current flow. So now there could be a situation where the deck puts out more power than its even supposed to (same voltage into half the ohms, twice the current, therefore twice the power), and then damage occurs. On a 2 ohm load you will reach max output of the deck long before the volume cranking ability is tapped out. The speakers may start sounding crappy long before that too, but there is still the chance that some people would turn the volume up beyond where they should (happens all the time), and not know where to stop, and with half the ohm load that makes it way worse than if it was a 4 ohm load.
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One solution would be to connect a 2 ohm power resistor in series with each of the stock speakers.
Pros:
1. It'll give you a nice 4 ohm load that will make your head unit happy.
2. It's cheap.
3. It's easy.
Cons:
1. You'll be wasting half of your HU's power in the resistors - which means that your system won't play as loud.
Pros:
1. It'll give you a nice 4 ohm load that will make your head unit happy.
2. It's cheap.
3. It's easy.
Cons:
1. You'll be wasting half of your HU's power in the resistors - which means that your system won't play as loud.
2023 Frontier SV CC 4x4 in Gun Metallic (with convenience and technology packages)
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That would save the fader for sure. As far as lost volume, I don't think you will even be able to tell because I think this would end up working out the same as what I have done (described above). I have 4 speakers running, each receiving only have the power my deck's channels can provide, and I'm using just 2 channels. Using all 4 channels with a resistor, same thing, half the power to the each speaker, just through 4 channels instead of 2. Currently, with mine installed the way I did it, it can get much louder than I could even stand so lost volume is no problem at all. It might be deck specific, but I'd expect similar performance from most quality deck's. I don't know where my deck maxes out on the volume numeric scale (0-30?, 0-40?) but I can only go to about 17 before it's waaaay too loud.
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