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Discussion Starter #1
Hay guys
U may have seen the old girl with the hairdryer bolted to it. Things were going well and at 7.5psi boost i could keep up with ya modded skyline no worries. I ended up killing a ceramic cussion clutch super fast ie 6 months. And what killed the fun was water. Yep water from the inground petrol tanks at the local service station. Once this issue entered the fuel system i had the truck shut down whilst away for a two week family fishing trip. Needless to say once back home and found water in the fuel the damage was done i took the top crown off of no.5 piston which then started a horrible ticking noise. Sounded like the old push rod blocked tick. So before killing the motor a full rebuild was under taken. Nissan do a good job on there engines i will admit and after a few thousand dollars spent i now have all new pistons with arp main studs arp conrod bolts and arp head studs all installed as well as high flow injector rails and 1000cc injectors. The greedy piggy back is about to be installed and cvonnected ready for the dyno. The exhaust manifold has been custom built bye myself and a close friend and heads have been fully polished along with the lower intake plenum. I have finally bolted the motor back in the old girl but still waiting on a sump to arrive. The stage 3 12puk copper ceramic clutch with solid chrome moly fly wheel is instslled and hoping this will be sufficient. I have chucked in a couple of shots of the build and will admit it will be better and more appealing to look at. Once dyno tuned i will post the numbers i achieved but ill be happy at 450whp which should be a shoe in with it now any one wanting to criticize or suggest improvments please feel free anything that sounds like a decent improvement i will endevour to do or buy. I have chucked well over 15 into this truck with arb air lockers front and rear, 2.5inch fully adjustsble tough dog lift, dba slotted front disks with brembo pads, cooper stt 285/75/16. Duel batteries, on board arb air comp, as stated rebuilt donk with majority of goodies added, custom front bar, led spot and lightbar, greedy piggyback ecu with lenovo sshd note book connected live data mapping on the fly changes etc. Stage 3 copper ceramic 12 puk clutch from acs. Fingers crossed this doesnt grenade on the dyno as i have built this all at home in my shed with no help besides a few mates having there ***** sessions telling me i have gone so far wit h the build dont cheap out on anything or ill regret it in the future. Lol. So my thought for a strip down and full rebuild in 2 months is not a bad effort mind u i work 50plus hrs a week as a contracted electrician running my own business no employees no one to do my paperwork or balance the books just me.
 

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Did you lower the compression?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No i didnt i looked into the 350 & 370z pistons but with out one to measure up i didnt know if the pin distnce was the same as the vq40de. My guess is nissan just changed the rod length and crank stroke but in saying that i have a vq37vhr block in the shed (next build) m and our cranks way to big to fit in the journals. Theres the option of two head gaskets but i dont like that idea myself i did how ever look into a headspacer but no one seems to make them so it would be a custom one off mchinr to be working the vq40de well theres no aftermarket i or h beam rods nor billet crank i can say that much. So with out trial and error and a few extra thousand to throw at the motor i opted for standard coated hypertech pistons which were the best made piston i could find. But my understanding is as long as i run quality fuel 98 or better i shouldnt have any issues with detonation and im hoping with a good tune the guys on the dyno should be able to map a safe tune for everyday driving. Fingers crossed.
 

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This was just from water. Looks like the cylinder ate something. I thought you might have dropped a valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The theory is and tge best we can under stand is the water in the fuel was left for two weeks whilst i was away. Now we are only guessing but two weeks is plenty of time to cause enough corrosion on the cylnder bore and piston ring only needs to be enough to either make a tiny lip on the cylnder enough that it catches the ring on the down stroke to tear the crown of the piston off amd exposing the ring beneath. Yes the top ring then cracked and hence the damage of forign matter in the bore and bits of ring in the exhaust i was fortunate enough to be dropping the kids off at school 2kms away when it let go and instead of going to work i babied it home to investigate. If ignored and i hit boost then could be a different matter all together. This is only one theory though it could have been a bad detonation prior to the damage or the fact i lost oil pressure 500m away from home and ran the car untill i arrived perhaps i starved it of oil for that short distance. There was no evidance of anything that had come loose or entered prior to the turbo and not much had exited the exhaust pipe it was all contained. All i know is once found i was having to dig deep into my.pocket. heres the progress on the build at the current monent of time. Splash of black definately beats the green e coat with over spray look i think. Oh please ignore the cross over pipe to the turbo i know it doesnt look the best once running i will take this system down to a fabricator to weld me one out of stainless steam pipe.
 

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Update with how things are going: Everythings now run in and running quite well. The car is putting out good power but still im yet to find anyone willing to help dyno tune the car. I have the greddy piggyback in and so far when running well it seems to stop pulling around the 5000rpm mark. So untill im able to get a decent tune im a bit lost with what to do. All units bieng different its difficult to just go online and pick it up. Attached is the build complete and things running sweet. Cant believe first turn of the key it started and ran like a dream no missfire no oil leaks nothing.
 

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