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Discussion Starter #1
Truck died on me last week. Its a 2011 Pro and hasn't had any real problems before. Pulled up to a red light and it started running rough then it just cut out. No codes just died like I had turned the key off. Had a hell of a time getting it into a parking space but was able to . The positive terminal was extremely corroded. I was able to clean it up looking like new and everything seemed fine. Yesterday I noticed it was running rough at idle again. This morning it just cranked and didn't want to start. It finally did and ran fine until I got to another red light and it tried cutting out again. I gave it a little gas and it kept going but once in a space it died again. This time it started right up and got me home.

What could this be? I have never had this problem with a Frontier before.
 

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Find someone competent w/ checking your charging system. I use a local mom&pop battery shop...and trust these folks cuz they have uncovered some 'strange' issues with my vehicles and even my mower's charging system over the years. Could be as simple as a poor connection, cable or ground...or needing a new battery or alternator. Allow them to perform their diagnostic checks.
 

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I have the same thing to say as shift_RUSH. Only thing I have to add is that it's probably an easy fix but will be difficult to locate. Starting/charging systems tend to act like everything is failing on you when only one component is bad because of their interdependencies.

Have your battery tested first though (because it's free and easy), a corroded terminal (for how long before you noticed?) may have killed your battery over time with it just never really getting a full charge ever.
 

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Original battery? If so it's 5yrs old, I'll bet a 6pk that it has been not getting a good charge especially cause you didn't keep the terminals clean. Now your battery is like a OLD person that has got pneumonia, it's alive but unable to work. Get it tested or just get a new one. People please raise your hood, inspect, clean and take care of PM.
 

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I just had a hell of a time with corroded terminals. My positive terminal connector was so badly corroded it fell apart when I took it off to clean. Even my tie-down had corrosion on it. Made my gauges do the funky chicken and all my lights flicker like I was in a cheap strip club. Replaced the connector with a marine style one and cleaned the terminals, then sprayed crc terminal protector over pretty much the entire battery. everything works fine now and I'm in the market for a new battery.
 

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My moneys on a Fuel related issue. How many miles? Do you run your gas tank below 1/4 alot? Not sure with VQ40 but the old Toyota EFIs had a cold start injector, you could crack the banjo loose on them, cycle the fuel pump and see if there was pressure/fuel to the plenum. This may not apply to Nissan's and be safe when working with fuel!! I've seen AC pumps make cars die at idle too. Is your AC/defrost cycling when it dies? AC Pump can create too much drag added to an already low idle and goodnight.
But like others say, you could throw $500 in parts at it and still not know, or pay $100 and know for sure..
Its all just speculation.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hey guys. Thanks for the advice. After having a few more days of trouble I was able to track it down. Although I never saw an engine light I plugged a code reader in and found it had a P0345. Went to the effort of replacing the Driver Side Crankshaft Position Sensor with one from Autozone and the problem went away. In fact the truck is even driving better with more power.

My suspicion is that when i pulled the battery cables off I was basically "rebooting" the sensor which is why it was fine for a few days after the pull.
 

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Glad you got it sorted

So the lesson of the day is if your truck does something not normal hook up a code read even if there isn't a check engine light.

Don't you think it's crazy that we all have the same truck and parts just go out at much different time intervals for different owners? Timing chain tensioners/chain, some people ~40-60k. Evap issues, I think that's more of a dusty environment issue. The automatic transmission radiator issue ~80-120k? My left hub finally going out at 142k. How am I still on the original clutch and towing a 5000lb RV trailer on 17 trips the last two year?

The biggest thing is electrical components, like these Crank position sensors. Seen them posted going bad quite a few times. You have a 2011 and you already had one go bad. I'm sitting at 11yrs and 142k and still ok?

Anyways glad you figured it out.

PM me for that 6pk I bet, and a cigar if you smoke them.
 

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I had my CPS go out shortly after getting the truck in 2011. Finally it went into limp mode and i had it towed to the dealer.
 
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