I have a 2010 SE and replaced the standard radio and speakers with a Pioneer FH-P8000BT head unit, Polk Audio DB651 and DB691 speakers, and XM radio tuner. I want to add an amplifier and am confused as to 2 channel vs. 4 channel, can I get any brand, how many watts (I like it loud, but not enough to blow my speakers). Any recommendations? Thanks all.
Need amplifier help
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Basically, 2-channel = 2-speakers and 4-channel = 4-speakers.
Look at the recommended RMS wattage for your speakers and match your amp to that level. I run an Alpine Power Pack to my db 6.5's, 45-watts RMS and works like a champ. Most any brand will do, but you get what you pay for. Check sites like Crutchfield, I used their Learning Center to learn alot about car audio. Sonic Electronix usually has good prices. Good luck and enjoy.
Look at the recommended RMS wattage for your speakers and match your amp to that level. I run an Alpine Power Pack to my db 6.5's, 45-watts RMS and works like a champ. Most any brand will do, but you get what you pay for. Check sites like Crutchfield, I used their Learning Center to learn alot about car audio. Sonic Electronix usually has good prices. Good luck and enjoy.
My head unit says the wattage is 4 x 50 watts. The speakers say they are 55 rms. Does that tell me that I am already at my limit with just the head unit? I have to really turn the volume knob a lot to get the volume that I want. Or does one get an amp and just not turn the volume up too much to prevent the speakers from blowing?
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your deck is NOT 50w RMS. it is 50w MAX which means nothing, it means less than nothing. the RMS of that deck is only 14w. well lacking for those speakers. JL Audio J2 320.4 4-channel car amplifier — 60 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com that will do you nicely.
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I don't know if you're interested but I have an aftermarket sub and amp in my truck with a Pioneer head, and being the ******* engineer that I am figured out a way of making it what I call a modular setup, no wires from the battery and I can take it out in about 5 minutes. If you want to avoid running the wires, let me know
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******* engineered a cigarette adapter and plugged it into the center console. It wasn't terrible actually.
***Make sure you have the proper fuses in place to support the amps you will be pulling
: Find a cigarette plug and cut the appliance off the end (leave plenty of wire) Make sure to keep about 6 inches of extra wire to use later.
: Separate the wires 6 inches (peel the wires apart)
: Find your positive and negative (use a meter if you have to but make sure you KNOW!)
: Attach the positive and negative to the amplifier
: Use a short piece of wire as a jumper between the 12V+ source connection and your ACC connection on the amplifier. This tells the amp to come on all the time.
: Hook up your audio in (I ran RCA cables from the pre-out on my head)
: Hook up your subwoofer
: Plug in to center console cigarette adapter (my lid still closes)
Boom boom you got thumps in the trunk!
In most Frontiers the center console AC adapter only comes on when you turn the ignition on. This will work for most amps, but if you are going to install a system that pulls A LOT of wattage, I would suggest running a cable to the battery. As it is, my sub is only 450 Watts and the amplifier is only pulling between 15-20 amps. I put a 25 amp fuse in my fuse box for the AC Adapters and all is well. Hope this helps! I may post pictures later. I've been doing car audio and red neck engineering for a while now....
***Make sure you have the proper fuses in place to support the amps you will be pulling
: Find a cigarette plug and cut the appliance off the end (leave plenty of wire) Make sure to keep about 6 inches of extra wire to use later.
: Separate the wires 6 inches (peel the wires apart)
: Find your positive and negative (use a meter if you have to but make sure you KNOW!)
: Attach the positive and negative to the amplifier
: Use a short piece of wire as a jumper between the 12V+ source connection and your ACC connection on the amplifier. This tells the amp to come on all the time.
: Hook up your audio in (I ran RCA cables from the pre-out on my head)
: Hook up your subwoofer
: Plug in to center console cigarette adapter (my lid still closes)
Boom boom you got thumps in the trunk!
In most Frontiers the center console AC adapter only comes on when you turn the ignition on. This will work for most amps, but if you are going to install a system that pulls A LOT of wattage, I would suggest running a cable to the battery. As it is, my sub is only 450 Watts and the amplifier is only pulling between 15-20 amps. I put a 25 amp fuse in my fuse box for the AC Adapters and all is well. Hope this helps! I may post pictures later. I've been doing car audio and red neck engineering for a while now....
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OMG you need to be censured. You are kidding right? I have never heard of such blasphemy. Your post is wrong on so many levels I can't even talk about it without flaming you.
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88 Posts
I've had this setup running for 9 months, no problems man. As long as you're careful and make sure of your amps (not amplifiers) this is perfectly do-able. Don't get so upset, if you have some critique of what I have to say, do so politely, otherwise don't comment because I don't want to hear it.
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you are VERY LUCKY you have not burned your truck to the ground. the power ports were NOT designed for the kind of amp draw that an amp requires. the wire used by the factory is the lowest priced and barely sized large enough to run things like a cell charger. that has got to be one of the WORST ideas i have ever heard. putting in a 20a fuse is just asking for a fire. the wire isnt sized to run a 20a load.
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I did check the wires before installing this. They will handle the pull, not to mention the amp I have is a small one. Like I said, this will work for smaller sounds systems.
here's a disclaimer for the idea I posted: If you know nothing about electricity, do not try this. If you do not know how to tell what amperage your wires will support, do not try this. Guys it was merely a suggestion for those with enough electrical know how to do this. I understand it is not the smartest idea, but for those of us who cannot afford a 1000 Watt amp, and have to suffice with a much smaller system, this works just fine.
here's a disclaimer for the idea I posted: If you know nothing about electricity, do not try this. If you do not know how to tell what amperage your wires will support, do not try this. Guys it was merely a suggestion for those with enough electrical know how to do this. I understand it is not the smartest idea, but for those of us who cannot afford a 1000 Watt amp, and have to suffice with a much smaller system, this works just fine.
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When I saw this:
:laugh::fantastic::laugh:
Could you please put the standard disclaimer found on the MTV show Jackass about "not trying this at home"????
Somehow I knew this would be the result:
The greatest thing about this is when it fails, you can roast marshmallows and hot dogs for free since you didn't have the $$ to do it right the first time. Hope some $$ went to insurance premiums so the loss will be covered.
:laugh::fantastic::laugh:
Could you please put the standard disclaimer found on the MTV show Jackass about "not trying this at home"????
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look, I'm not telling everyone to do it, if you know what you are doing it's fine. I didn't install a subwoofer to blow out the windows, I installed a small subwoofer to balance the sound in the truck.
The load on the wires is fine, I checked with the system on. This was not a recommendation if you are going to pump the bass so that you set off car alarms. I don't listen to my music in such a manner. If you are going to install a system to go cruising the block trying to pickup the chicas in your low rider then run some big @** wires from the battery, get a capacitor, put 4 15" subwoofers in the bed of your truck and buy some ear plugs.
The load on the wires is fine, I checked with the system on. This was not a recommendation if you are going to pump the bass so that you set off car alarms. I don't listen to my music in such a manner. If you are going to install a system to go cruising the block trying to pickup the chicas in your low rider then run some big @** wires from the battery, get a capacitor, put 4 15" subwoofers in the bed of your truck and buy some ear plugs.
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As far as I know it is NEVER fine to upsize a fuse to handle a load. So, please don't just trivially say "it's fine, I checked the wires." If at ANY point, you blew a fuse and then increased the fuse size to avoid blowing more fuses, you have created a FIRE HAZARD, plain and simple, no disrespect intended.
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I understand how electricity works, I have never blown a fuse in the truck. I understand that upgrading fuses isn't recommended. The main reason I did that was so the front AC adapters would still function normally with the subwoofer on. The sub never pulls 20 amps even when it peaks, the only other thing that I plug in is a cell phone charger that pulls less than 3 amps.
Look, no more negative posts about this. It was simply informational. I realize it isn't the most brilliant idea, I also realize it won't work in MOST situations. I know enough about wiring to know that the setup I have works, so long as the amplifier level is left where it is (its pushing less than 100 watts, the adjustment screw is less than a quarter turn up.) If I turned this thing all the way up it'd blow. I know this, that's why I have it set up the way it is.
Look, no more negative posts about this. It was simply informational. I realize it isn't the most brilliant idea, I also realize it won't work in MOST situations. I know enough about wiring to know that the setup I have works, so long as the amplifier level is left where it is (its pushing less than 100 watts, the adjustment screw is less than a quarter turn up.) If I turned this thing all the way up it'd blow. I know this, that's why I have it set up the way it is.
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mwnaylor, I can see how you think this is OK because it hasn't failed on you. Here is why it is NOT OK and anyone who does this should be slapped.
I still have to look this up, but as I write this my understanding of the accessory plugs is the ones that switch on and off with the ACC are only 15 amp fused, and the one that is always hot is 20 amp fused.
Here is what I do know: the wires supplying the console accessory plug appear to be only 16 gauge, good for about 13 amps safely. It may be 14 gauge with really thin insulation good for 15 amps - but still.
Your 450 watt amp (assuming max) will pull 33 amps at full load at 13.6 volts.
If you never turn it up that high, say it is only running at 250 watts.. that is still 18 amps - too much for the ACC controlled accessory plugs.
And on top of that, you up-fused the line to 25 amps!! You are definitely asking for a fire.
Did you know that when an appliance is used on undersized wires, it pulls higher amps and runs hotter than it should to make up for the voltage drop?
I'm not sure you understand how electricity works.
I still have to look this up, but as I write this my understanding of the accessory plugs is the ones that switch on and off with the ACC are only 15 amp fused, and the one that is always hot is 20 amp fused.
Here is what I do know: the wires supplying the console accessory plug appear to be only 16 gauge, good for about 13 amps safely. It may be 14 gauge with really thin insulation good for 15 amps - but still.
Your 450 watt amp (assuming max) will pull 33 amps at full load at 13.6 volts.
If you never turn it up that high, say it is only running at 250 watts.. that is still 18 amps - too much for the ACC controlled accessory plugs.
And on top of that, you up-fused the line to 25 amps!! You are definitely asking for a fire.
Did you know that when an appliance is used on undersized wires, it pulls higher amps and runs hotter than it should to make up for the voltage drop?
I'm not sure you understand how electricity works.
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There hasn't been a negative post in this thread unless you consider warning people of potential fire hazards a negative thing.
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I double checked, I was mistaken, the fuse from the factory is still 15 amps. the amplifier I have is a 2 channel 400W max (bridged), on 1 channel unbridged it is 150W max. The amplifier is not pulling 33amps, and is only pushing 1/8 level on the the power settings. Like I said, I do not have this setup to pull the max. If I was going to push it I would run the wires to the battery (I did this on my last truck which was a 97 nissan) I appreciate so much concern over one post.... didn't know you guys cared!
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