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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I need to do my shocks and struts on a 2007 frontier crew cab.

Are these a good buy and are they the right ones?

Not an offroad guy but I would like something that gives a fairly smooth ride.

Struts
KYB sr4202
128.79ea
I considered the Rancho RS999938 but raising 2" scared me away. I just picture the front of the truck sitting higher than the rear on a slight uphill angle. If there is a way to level it out, I would not know where to start with that.

Shocks
KYB 555051
55.79ea

Id rather ask than purchase something incorrect and have to do double the work.

TYVM for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have heard/read there are problems with those Rancho quick lift coilovers/struts leaking after time.
Forum member JSutter installed those.... see (page 2) of his thread (post #19) they started leaking.
Click here:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f26/rancho-quicklift-installed-many-pics-81204/

Edit ...never mind , I just re-read your post , you do not want the Rancho's
WOW, thanks for the link anyways. I did see what the 2" difference does and I do like that way better.

Any other quick lifts you know of that have good reviews?
 

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LOL
Um ya be careful ....once you get a taste of lifting your truck it can get out of hand quick $.$$
As far as I know there are not many options for low dollar lift struts other than Bilstein or EMU = Old Man Emu
What I did was read a lot on this forum.... members build threads and of course the suspension sticky:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f26/updated-suspension-lifts-body-lifts-2005-please-read-before-posting-here-63966/

Or you could call Nisstec on the telephone and tell them what you are trying to achieve.
Maybe something like:
Old Man Emu Front Lift W/ Shocks '05+ Frontier & Xterra - Nisstec Lifts: Nissan Lift Kits: XTerra Lift Kits, Frontier Lift Kits, Titan Lift Kits, Nissan Truck Lift Kits
or
Bilstein 4600 Front Shocks (2ea) - Nisstec Lifts: Nissan Lift Kits: XTerra Lift Kits, Frontier Lift Kits, Titan Lift Kits, Nissan Truck Lift Kits
 

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Discussion Starter #5
LOL
Um ya be careful ....once you get a taste of lifting your truck it can get out of hand quick $.$$
As far as I know there are not many options for low dollar lift struts other than Bilstein or EMU = Old Man Emu
What I did was read a lot on this forum.... members build threads and of course the suspension sticky:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f26/updated-suspension-lifts-body-lifts-2005-please-read-before-posting-here-63966/

Or you could call Nisstec on the telephone and tell them what you are trying to achieve.
Maybe something like:
Old Man Emu Front Lift W/ Shocks '05+ Frontier & Xterra - Nisstec Lifts: Nissan Lift Kits: XTerra Lift Kits, Frontier Lift Kits, Titan Lift Kits, Nissan Truck Lift Kits
or
Bilstein 4600 Front Shocks (2ea) - Nisstec Lifts: Nissan Lift Kits: XTerra Lift Kits, Frontier Lift Kits, Titan Lift Kits, Nissan Truck Lift Kits

>:D
The slight tilt is annoying, if I can get it level with no fancy equipment, I'll be a happy camper.
Tyvm for the links. I was just searching under keyword "struts."

I'll get lost on the links and a few other searches.

This truck has been good to me and I am enjoying the NO MONTHLY PAYMENT and would like to keep it that was as long as possibole:angel: (even tho I just got the wifey a new set of wheels)
 

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Get Bilsteins 5100 shocks front and rear. In the front set it for 1 to 1.5" of lift. You'll be happy.

Looks like all of the "strut" (really a coil spring over shock) options come loaded (with springs). With the 5100 you will need to reuse your stock springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Get Bilsteins 5100 shocks front and rear. In the front set it for 1 to 1.5" of lift. You'll be happy.

Looks like all of the "strut" (really a coil spring over shock) options come loaded (with springs). With the 5100 you will need to reuse your stock springs.
My fear of installing is the spring (which is why I was looking at the combos). Even reading on the tools for the spring, I just fear that badboy taking my head off and one of the kids coming outside after etc.
 

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My fear of installing is the spring (which is why I was looking at the combos). Even reading on the tools for the spring, I just fear that badboy taking my head off and one of the kids coming outside after etc.
Fear is unwarranted. People seem to fear all kinds of stuff these days and make rash decisions based on them. I have done maybe 10 and my head still sits on my neck as well as all 10 fingers on my hands. Yes it is more work though and a more logical reason to avoid it.

Get the KYBs. KYBs tend to be a little stiff. Might want to try one of the other cheaper ones if you are just looking for a OE replacement.
Then get this small spacer lift.
PRG Products
Install and call it a day. your 2007 springs have most likely sagged a bit. Just getting new stuff will make it seem like you lifted it a bunch.


You can get any shock for the rear. These will probably give you the best ride
PRG Products
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fear is unwarranted. People seem to fear all kinds of stuff these days and make rash decisions based on them. I have done maybe 10 and my head still sits on my neck as well as all 10 fingers on my hands. Yes it is more work though.

Get the KYBs. KYBs tend to be a little stiff. Might want to try one of the other cheaper ones if you are just looking for a OE replacement.
Then get this small spacer lift.
PRG Products
Install and call it a day. your 2007 springs have most likely sagged a bit. Just getting new stuff will make it seem like you lifted it a bunch.


You can get any shock for the rear. These will probably give you the best ride
PRG Products
I'm going to watch some youtube videos when I get a chance. I might try the 5100's. The extra work doesn't bother me, it's the fear of not being a great mechanic and running into trouble I never seen coming.

Tyvm for the links. Those spacers look easy to make since I work in a machine shop::grin::. Ill have a better read and see if I can find some dimensions later. Luckily we have stainless steel laying around for scrap that I could make the spacers out of.
 

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KYB is an excellent shock.
 

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Get Bilsteins 5100 shocks front and rear. In the front set it for 1 to 1.5" of lift. You'll be happy.

Looks like all of the "strut" (really a coil spring over shock) options come loaded (with springs). With the 5100 you will need to reuse your stock springs.
I already installed 5100s on the rear and plan on adding a small AAL lift. I also plan on doing the fronts with a new spring because why not. And of course the camber bolts. Wasn't there a thread about some little aluminum washer on top of the Bilsteins?
 

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I already installed 5100s on the rear and plan on adding a small AAL lift. I also plan on doing the fronts with a new spring because why not. And of course the camber bolts. Wasn't there a thread about some little aluminum washer on top of the Bilsteins?
2 "washers" come to mind. The "boot cover washer" in this graphic is the the one people forget to install or place in the wrong spot and have the shock shaft tear through the bushing.

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f26/bilstein-5100-strut-coil-assembly-diagram-134113/

A shock top lift spacer is another "washer". 1/2" easiest. 1" will need new longer top hat mounting studs. 1.5" on a 5100 will need taller bump stop to prevent crush. 2" on a 5100 is not recommended.
 

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When I replaced my front strut with KYB GR-2/Excels about four years ago, I found out I had to re-use some of the old hardware; I'm not sure if this is the case, today. FYI, KYB now offers a "quick-strut," called KYB "Strut-plus." It's a fully assembled strut with coil spring and mount. Rockauto.com sells them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
When I replaced my front strut with KYB GR-2/Excels about four years ago, I found out I had to re-use some of the old hardware; I'm not sure if this is the case, today. FYI, KYB now offers a "quick-strut," called KYB "Strut-plus." It's a fully assembled strut with coil spring and mount. Rockauto.com sells them.
Correct, I placed a link to rockauto with that exact strut-plus.
Sounds like I don't need anything but basic tools and a cheater bar.

One more question, I've been using a synthetic blend for oil and my lifters have been making noise upon startup of the engine. I was thinking going full synthetic but worry at 195k it might be a bad idea (reading on other random site about switching so late).

Would it be a bad idea or is there another option besides Lucas I could try (Lucas has only worked for a week or two in mast 3 oil changes). Then right back to clanking...
 

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Im going with the KYB, do I need anything else aside from the tools for the job?
Just basic tools. If you have never removed the front lower shock mount it might take a big breaker bar or a big impact wrench. Soak in oil for at least one day before the job. Heck jsut go out there and spray it now.

You will need to pull the upper control arm (UCA) off the knuckle. Some say that banging with a big hammer is enough to seperate it. I find that using this tool makes the job much easier.

Tie Rod and Pitman Arm Puller

As for the Syn oil. Give it a go. Some older cars will start to leak if swtiched to sny oil late in life. Lift noise at start up is not that big of a deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just basic tools. If you have never removed the front lower shock mount it might take a big breaker bar or a big impact wrench. Soak in oil for at least one day before the job. Heck jsut go out there and spray it now.

You will need to pull the upper control arm (UCA) off the knuckle. Some say that banging with a big hammer is enough to seperate it. I find that using this tool makes the job much easier.

Tie Rod and Pitman Arm Puller

As for the Syn oil. Give it a go. Some older cars will start to leak if swtiched to sny oil late in life. Lift noise at start up is not that big of a deal.
Nice, I'll place one in my amazon order (tool).
The lift noise bugs the heck out of me. I give it gas for it to go away. If I don't, the tic just stays until it's in gear.
 

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Nice, I'll place one in my amazon order (tool).
The lift noise bugs the heck out of me. I give it gas for it to go away. If I don't, the tic just stays until it's in gear.
Nissan started going hydraulic lifter since the 90s. IMO they are great. A small expanding cylinder that fills with oil that takes up the space between the cam and the valve lifter, which never need to be adjusted. THey are suppose to stay filled with oil even when no oil pressure is present. The type of oil has little to do with if they will take the oil. You can try synthetic oil as it might flow into the lifters easier. In the past I have run some very light weight oil with some "mechanic in a can" type cleaner. Sea foam or MOA type. I ran MOA
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engine/bg-moa/
Seemed to help some. The real culprit was low oil pressure in my case. The fact that the tick goes away in your truck is a good thing.

The fear of running syn oil in a old engine is that the seals will leak. Sometimes going back to dino oil will stop the leak sometimes it won't.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nissan started going hydraulic lifter since the 90s. IMO they are great. A small expanding cylinder that fills with oil that takes up the space between the cam and the valve lifter, which never need to be adjusted. THey are suppose to stay filled with oil even when no oil pressure is present. The type of oil has little to do with if they will take the oil. You can try synthetic oil as it might flow into the lifters easier. In the past I have run some very light weight oil with some "mechanic in a can" type cleaner. Sea foam or MOA type. I ran MOA
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engine/bg-moa/
Seemed to help some. The real culprit was low oil pressure in my case. The fact that the tick goes away in your truck is a good thing.

The fear of running syn oil in a old engine is that the seals will leak. Sometimes going back to dino oil will stop the leak sometimes it won't.
I'll try this with the synthetic blend before going full synthetic. It just annoys me so much. Worst is making so much noise at 3:15am for work.

I really appreciate your help bro!
 

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VQ engines don't have hydraulic lifters; they have valve bucket tappets that come in one of two styles. Early VQ's uses a standard-sized tappet with a shim. You would adjust the clearance, if necessary, by replacing the shim with one of a different thickness to achieve the proper clearance spec. Later VQ engines, like the VQ40DE, have a shimless bucket tappet. There are multiple sized bucket tappets available, so, in order to adjust the clearance, you have to replace the entire bucket tappet. Most of the time, adjustment isn't required unless work is done to the valvetrain, i.e. a camshaft replacement or valve replacement.
This said, perhaps the start-up noise is due to piston slap or timing chain noise or perhaps an exhaust leak? As far as the use of synthetic oil, installing it in a high-mileage engine shouldn't be a problem. I've known several people that swear their VQ engines run smoother on full-synthetic oil, but whether that's true or just a mental thing for them, who knows? Personally, I use SuperTech 5W30 full-synthetic from Walmart and have used it in all of my vehicles, including the VQ40DE in my 06 Pathy, for over a decade. I took a 7500 mile sample from the Pathy when it had 150,000 miles on the engine and sent it to Blackstone Labs; the results came back good and they recommended extending my interval to 9500 miles (I still stick with 7500, though, but it's nice to know). I use Nissan or Purolator Pure One oil filters and the best part of the SuperTech full-synthetic is that it's only $18 for a 5 quart jug!
 

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