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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have the Factory 6-cd changer headunit.

Crutchfield recommeded these 6-1/2"s front & rear since I wanted to keep my factory 6-cd changer. Kenwood KFC-1660S 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers For 6-1/2" and 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield.com

I dont know what the factory headunit rms power pushes to the front & rear speakers, but have a feeling its underpowering the better then factory speakers causing them to perform poorly and not there full potential. These aftermarket speakers are 35w rms.

The speakers sound clear and volume loudness is ok up to 25 out of 32. But the speakers get distorted after 25. And that is with the bass at -5. When you turn it to 0-+5 it just gets distorted really bad.

My plan was just to have the speakers do the mids little and highs and have my single 12" sub do the lows that i have located on one side of the truck.

The sub/amp w/line out converter is;
Loaded Single 12" Sub Enclosure Kicker Comp 12 W/ ZX200.2 Amplifier Kit

It kind of sucks because if I want to get volume out of the stereo, the bass has to be set to -5 then dont get much bass from the sub. And if I want bass out of my system it doesnt have volume because I have to set the bass to 0-+5 then if you turn it passed 20 or so it starts to distort.

I want it to be loud with some decent bass without distorting.

I think if I had more power to the speakers it sound louder and be able to set the bass in the 0-+5 setting without getting distorted.

What do you recommend I do. I really want to keep the stock headunit. Would adding a 4-channel amp to the front & rear speaker make a huge difference?

How much rms per channel do I want to get (speakers are 35 rms each). I installed everything myself and dont want to mess with it again.

How much would it cost to buy a cheap 4-channel amp that will do the job and install it say at best buy?

Oh and i have the sub facing rear. Is there a better direction for better bass. Facing forward better?

By the way using a factory deck. I understand how to add a sub/amp to the factory deck using a line out converter. But how do you wire up a 4-channel amp to the factory deck?

Thanks!
 

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The amplifier that SQNismo recommended has two sets of high level inputs. Basically what you would do is tap into the front and rear speaker wires and the amplifier would use those as the source sound. Ideally you would want to use RCA cables coming from the deck, but I am assuming that the stock head unit does not have pre outs. Adding an amp would make a huge difference to those speakers if the stock unit is pushing only 12-15 RMS. If you have already replaced the speakers, want a 4 channel amp and a sub, I would suggest getting a 5 channel amp and just replacing the head unit. It's the best way to get good sound out of your system, plus it will give you the option of HD radio, bluetooth, DVD, satellite radio, auxiliary or ipod connections etc depending on what model you get. Upgrading all the components except the deck itself (which is the most important piece) is kind of backwards. If you are worried about running the wires and where to place the amp, it's very simple. I have to take mine out this weekend and will do a complete write up with pictures to help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I see. Least I only spent 300 dollars on this bad direction. One thing I hate having a sub is taking away a seat.

Say if I do it all over again.

Is there anyway to get have a really loud system that puts out lot of bass just thru door speakers, similar to a small sub?

I was thinking;

Average aftermerket deck thats about $100.

Replace the door speakers again with 6-1/2"s & 6x9"s but that do like 80 rms each $85 pair=$170

Have a 4-channel amp that pushes out 80 rms to each speaker. $150

And remove the sub/amp I have.

And try to sell the speakers, sub, amp for like $150

Or is the only way to get real bass is with subs.

Problem is my speakers are not very big watts, deck is limited, and sub doesnt hit like i want. Kind of totally unhappy with the setup.

Like i need to start over fresh.

Would it cost a lot to do door speakers, amp to power them, and a new deck without a sub assuming door speakers can do good bass. At like bestbuy plus installation?

Just realized that when you do aftermarket decks you loose your controls on the steering wheel i remember hearing. That tru?
 

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I wouldn't give up just yet. There are three things (in order of cost) I would try before giving up.

The first thing to understand is frequency range. Your sub should be focused on making bass in the 20-100Hz range. This is the range that takes power to reproduce. One huge advantage of using a sub is that you can remove this 20-100Hz responsibility from your door speakers meaning they can play everything else (midrange, treble) louder and with less distortion. Unfortunately, the stock deck is not equipped to allow this to happen. So you have to rely upon other methods as noted below.

1.) Increase the gain setting or bass boost setting on your sub amplifier. This will make the sub play louder with less bass output from the deck. So you use the deck bass setting (at low, -5 or whatever) to keep the bass out of your speakers which can't hang. Then you artificially boost the bass up at the sub amplifier to balance it back out. This should work, and is likely all you need to do. You can use either the gain or the bass boost setting on your amp to accomplish this.

2.) If you still aren't happy with the sound of your door speakers even with the bass all they way down on your deck, you can install bass blockers at the speakers. These are passive crossovers that filter the bass out before it gets to the speakers. Because you have a sub, you can use these. I would recommend something in the ~150Hz range. Make sure you buy them with the correct rating at 4 ohms. These should cost you about $20 for a set of four online.

3.) Install a dedicated amplifier for your door speakers are mentioned. This will help the most but is also the most difficult and expensive. The amplifier will have more power, and built-in active crossovers which will allow you to filter the low bass out of the speakers. So it is actually a double improvement making step 2 not required. So pick one or the other.

4.) Install a replacement deck that has built-in speaker crossovers. Most decks do this now. Even inexpensive Kenwoods have the ability to send only >80Hz or >120Hz sound to the door speakers. We have this great, common and easy to get to double-din configuration in our trucks. All this work to keep the stock head unit is silly, imho. There's no need to keep a 6 cd changer when there are so many decks that play MP3's off a flash drive or burnt CD. You really can't beat having access to 40 CD's off a $20 8gb flash drive. A deck with built-in crossovers will definitely make step 2 not required, and possibly step 3.

Far as your sub goes, if you have a crew cab there are several methods to install a 10" sub under either one of the back seats. The proper driver in a decent box can certainly put out good bass in our trucks. It won't "bang" like your 12 but it's a much cleaner installation, less of a theft target, and you just lose a storage bin. Keep the amp, sell your 12, and try a 10" solution. If you are at all a woodchuck, you can build a box on your own a good bit of money.

You'll never get sub like bass performance using door mounted 6.5 or 6x9 speakers. You can do ok for rock music but the door is too poor of an enclosure to do the same job as a sub box.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
---------------------------------------------

Say if im not totally happy after I try that.

You sugguest keeping the front & rear 6-1/2" Kenwood speakers (35 rms).

Said the 4-channel amp cost to much and diffucult which i agree.

So by changing out the headunit is the best choice. I will notice a difference in sound. Is that because i'll go from 12-15 rms to like 22 rms and like you said 6-cd useless because what the aftermarket decks offer.

If i change out the deck I wont loose the controls on the steering wheel as well as the theft system right?

Do you think the sub & amp i have is worth keeping? They fit together for what the amp pushes into the sub?
 

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Why is Crutchfield telling you to put 6 1/2s in the front? Alpine makes some good 6x9 replacements that fit with no modification. I have a Clarion CX609, Alpine 6x9s in the front door and Sony 6.5s in the rear doors of my CC. This set up sounds fantastic and was way easy to install.
 

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Why is Crutchfield telling you to put 6 1/2s in the front? Alpine makes some good 6x9 replacements that fit with no modification. I have a Clarion CX609, Alpine 6x9s in the front door and Sony 6.5s in the rear doors of my CC. This set up sounds fantastic and was way easy to install.
the truth is, round speakers produce better sound. 6x9's do provide a little more bass but the sound can be muddy even with amped correctly. 6.5's all the way around with a sub is the best setup for most.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright I know what im doing now.

Keeping the Single 12" Kicker Sub/Kicker Amp-It sounds good, not looking for anthing crazy.

I'm getting a Kenwood deck installed- So I can have seperate output for the sub amp, equalizer, high pass to take the bass out of the speakers, Deck will push out more power to increase the volume with less distortation to the speakers.

My only question I have left is I do have 6-1/2"s front & rear which is what crutchfield saiud to use. They even have other speakers that fit with 6-1/2's for our trucks. I know the stock ones were 6x9"s. Do you think it's worth to replace the 6-1/2's with 6 x 9"s. I mean im only going for volume to these speakers. Not so much bass. I just want to know will it make any difference. Or for what im going for just to leave them alone.

Thanks
 

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Why is Crutchfield telling you to put 6 1/2s in the front? Alpine makes some good 6x9 replacements that fit with no modification. I have a Clarion CX609, Alpine 6x9s in the front door and Sony 6.5s in the rear doors of my CC. This set up sounds fantastic and was way easy to install.
i have clarion cx609 ($249) and polk db651s/651 which are 6.5" round coaxials ($135 for all 4 speakers) which is an awesome setup, all from crutchfield. after tuning the bass settings (clarion allows adjustments for Gain, Frequency (50, 100, 200) and Bandwidth), i dont need an amp or a subwoofer with this setup. the clarion puts out 22rms x 4.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thanks for everything people.

Ya I was looking at a lot of other threads. And seem like a lot of people go from a 6 x 9 to 6-1/2 all around. So im going to just stick with what i have. I really dont wanna take off the door panels again and spend another $75 if there not even that noticeable.

So I will know how it all sounds tonight or next day messing with the settings. Let you know how it turns out.

So my final setup will be;

-Factory tweeters

-Kenwood deck Kenwood - 50W x 4 MOSFET Apple® iPod®/Satellite/HD Radio-Ready In-Dash CD Deck - KDC-MP342U

-Kenwood 6-1/2"s front & rear door speakers- Kenwood KFC-1660S 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers For 6-1/2" and 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield.com

-Single 12" Kicker Amp/Sub-
Loaded Single 12" Sub Enclosure Kicker Comp 12 W/ ZX200.2 Amplifier Kit

Be about $600 dollars installed. Not to bad I guess.
 

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Sounds like you have a good plan. The only thing I would add is that you can save some serious $$$ if you do the work yourself. If you replaced the door speakers you can replace the deck easy as cake and with a little more time run the wiring for the subwoofer amp as well. Plus it's a 100% guarantee that you are going to take better care of your ride than Best Buy would. You will also know your truck better so if something goes wrong down the road troubleshooting will easier and you wont have to take it someplace to get fixed.

PS I would suggest disconnecting your tweeters.
 
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