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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

murphy's Build Thread


Most Current Picture.


objective:
to create a trail rig that is also daily drivable with ability to mount a slide in truck camper

location: east longmeadow ma.
name: john
username: murphy
year: 2007
make: nissan
model: frontier
trim: nismo
color: super black



\/ mods \/

interior:
-weathertech floor liners
-coverking seat covers
-otrattw compressor switch and air bag switch

exterior:
-auto ventshade in channel vent visors
-pinch weld mod
-axle vent mod vented behind the passenger tail light
-extang solid fold tonneau cover
-1a auto replacement tow mirrors
-front bumper. plastidipped black
-curt front hitch
-front and rear burgers. plastidipped camo green
-tailgate letters. plastidipped camo green

lighting:
-blacked out taillight lenses
-red led brake lights
-amber led signal and marker lights
-6000k led lic. plate and cap lights
-5000k genssi led headlights
-3500k putco pure halogen fogs
-6000k front seat cab lights
-blacklight back seat cab lights

drivetrain:
-jim wolf tech lightweight flywheel, clutch disk and pressure plate

suspension & tires:
-OME hd lift coilovers
-2" Daystar top plate spacer
-spc upper control arms with greasable ball joints
-moog greaseable lower control arms
-moog inner and outer tie rods
-oem nissan cam bolts
-alcan custom +600 pound +2" custom 8 leaf packs
-Bilstein 5125’s for 2”-4” lift
-ride-rite air bags
-stainless extended brake lines
-oem nismo wheels.
-Mastercraft MXT 305/70r16e

armor:
-white knuckle rock sliders. matte black
-PRG m226 differential cover

performance:
-banks monster exhaust

audio:
-Kenwood hd radio/bluetooth head unit
-steering wheel control adaptor
-kicker 5 channel amp
-1400w amp wiring kit
-pioneer speakers
-rockford fosgate 12” sub in a sealed box
-14 gauge wire run to the door speakers
-12 gauge wire run to the sub
-uniden bearcat cb
-firestik no ground plane antenna kit

gear and other:
-2”x20’ tow strap
-viair single 450c kit
-harbor freight receiver shackle mount
-quickfist shovel mount modified for use with utilitrack end stops
-shovel
-battery jump pack with air and usb

in progress:
-saving up some $$$

to do sooner:
-diy front recovery points in oem location
-more recovery gear

to do later:
-4.10 gears
-lt295/75r16
-lokka or arb front locker
-heated seats
-remove rear seats for storage platform

Pictures:

Alcans and air bags at work


The day I picked up our camper.


The brothers.



thanks to xmods for the template for this thread
last updated: 01/28/2018, 7:07 PM edt
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update; 20k miles on my jwt setup.

Since I don't remember seeing a post reporting mileage over 20k I am going to try to continue updating this thread with mileage milestones. Since I am already 'stuck' with this setup I feel like it is important that there is a log of its lifespan and how I've used it, until it's dead.

I am not a 'super fan' or blind advocate for the jwt product. I AM a fan of the idea of the solid flywheel, larger disk surface and greater pressure that jwt reports. I don't feel like an expected life that is less than 1/4 of stock is a fair tradeoff for these qualities.

My stock clutch was changed at just over 72k miles. 41k of those belong to me.(second owner) I feel like this is important to note. I'm not sure how it was driven for the 30,850ish miles before I owned this truck, but it is the only baseline I have.

It has been on my mind to do ToddG's clutch throw mod for a while, since before the 'new' clutch was put in. I'm going to try to do this soon. I'm not sure what effect, if any, this is going to have on the clutch's life. I am sure that I am in little danger of 'dragging' the clutch after this adjustment.
Here; http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/clutch-throw-adjustment-how-6-speed-50112/

I would also like to find a CAT scale, I'm interested to see how much over stock my truck, armor and usual gear weighs. I'm sure extra weight has an effect on clutch life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i had a few minutes today, so i went to get the truck weighed. i cleared most of the snow off, 3/4 of a tank of gas, driver, no passenger. these are my results;

actual weight, front. 2900 lb.
gawr, front. 3296 lb.

actual weight, rear. 2740 lb.
gawr, rear. 3331 lb.

actual weight of truck. 5640 lb.
gvwr. 5600 lb.
curb weight. 4323 lb.

it looks like i am over my gvwr by 40 lb. this is with the tools, cap, and armor i usually have in the truck. i think this is a good average representation. sometimes i have more, but i rarely have less. in addition to this, soon ill have a hefty skid to replace the oem one.

i tried to find front axle/rear axle curb weight but couldn't come up with any numbers. im not sure if they dont break it down like that, or if i was just looking in the wrong places. if anyone has these numbers i would really like to know what they are.
 

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Did your amp just happen to fit so cleanly? Or did it take some serious shopping??
Impressive and clean install nonetheless!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks! it just happened to fit. call it dumb luck. at first i was going to remove the drivers side jump seat and mount it in its place. there is no way it was going to get used. the sub is taking up most of the space behind my seat. unfortunately once the seat back was removed there is an impression in the rear panel and some holes that make it less clean looking than i would have liked. the location between the seats was plan b. the only drawback is that i needed to find another place for the jack. also i'm told it can get pretty warm for someone sitting next to it.
 

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Not too often you have passengers (you care about) back there, right? Unless you're family man? lol
Front and back views would be cool IFF/when you have the time. Am curious about how your camo-burgers & lettering looks as well as the rear door config on your shell.
MPG's?
Keep up the good work!

My '15 SV KC 4x2 6M is currently on order...yeah, pumped is an understatement!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This afternoon I pulled a guy in a Colorado z71 out of the snow. He decided to follow me out to where I parked in an unplowed dirt parking lot. There was roughly 10 inches of snow on top of a packed down layer. He got about 50 feet in before he beached himself. I noticed what was going on when I was retuning to my truck after taking the pup on a walk in the woods. I looked over to see two ladies and a guy pushing while the truck's owner(a male) was driving.

I was pulling him forward while he was in reverse. I had a little difficulty to begin with, until I realized that he had his wheel cut all the way to one side. It went way better once he straightened it out, until somehow he managed to maneuver into a 3 foot tall, 9 foot wide snow bank. By that time I was onto a semi-plowed part of the parking lot. Since he couldn't pull forward another guy and I shoveled through the snow bank so I could yank him out the rest of the way.

Looking back, it could have gone better in a few ways. The other guy had a receiver, but no way for me to attach my strap that has loop ends. Luckily someone nearby had a strap with hooks, so we were able to hook onto the chain loop on the hitch. I'm not a fan of the hook type straps, so I'll go pick up another hitch pin, so if this happens again I can at least use it as a last resort. Another thing i could have done differently is lowering my tire pressure. I was at 38psi in the front and 36psi in the rear. The pressure was this high because the last time I aired up after a drive on the beach I had a 3 hour trip ahead of me. I was trying to get better mileage. This evening I dropped it down to 33 front and 32 rear. We are expecting 6-12 more inches of snow tonight and tomorrow. I think it would be better to have the traction now instead of the mileage. It would have been good to have the extra traction to pull the truck out also. Because of being 'overweight' when I went to the scales earlier this week I pulled some of my tools out of the boxes in my cap. It would have been better to have had that weight over the rear axle.

Live and learn. Needless to say there was a lot of clutch work involved. There was no burned clutch smell afterward. No difference in clutch feel either.
 

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Another thing i could have done differently is lowering my tire pressure. I was at 38psi in the front and 36psi in the rear. The pressure was this high because the last time I aired up after a drive on the beach I had a 3 hour trip ahead of me. I was trying to get better mileage. This evening I dropped it down to 33 front and 32 rear. We are expecting 6-12 more inches of snow tonight and tomorrow. I think it would be better to have the traction now instead of the mileage. It would have been good to have the extra traction to pull the truck out also. Because of being 'overweight' when I went to the scales earlier this week I pulled some of my tools out of the boxes in my cap. It would have been better to have had that weight over the rear axle.
I would recommend against over-inflation. Studies have proven over&over that mileage is increases by a fraction (up to 1MPG when aired to 50psi on a tire normally aired to 30psi) however tractive forces are lost in multiples of 10% (in above scenario they lost close to 30% coefficient of friction in one study). Then there's the increased tire wear.
best recommendation is to do the chalk test if you are significantly changed from stock size tire&rim. rub chalk across the treadwidth and then drive forward a bit and check the wear pattern of the chalk. it should be uniform wear on the chalk. You may have to drive a few vehicle lengths. Be sure to drive straight ahead. You want to do this on a hard, flat surface.
The few $ you save by running over-inflated is far overshadowed by the $$$ lost in treadlife and replacing expensive offroad tires.
-by the way, great truck, I like the stance!
 

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PlastiDipped Tailgate Letters

Murphy, I was wondering how you did this. Did you remove, spray and then reinstall them? Or did you somehow mask them and leave them on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I masked off a rectangle around the letters. I left a good inch around the them unmasked. I did two light coats and 4 heavier coats. As long as you spray a good material thickness you can peel off what is on the paint. The plasti-dip doesn't settle in the seams between the tailgate and the letters, so you can peel the tailgate without peeling the letters. I did the same with the burger. It helped to have a razor knife to pull up the angles in the N's and inside the 4's etc. A toothpick helps a lot to get the peel started in those tight spots.

Masking the tailgate doesn't keep the plasti-dip off of the paint it keeps the material thick enough to peel off easily. If the coating is too thin you can't peel it off. It becomes a pain.
 

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Appreciate the lesson, man. I'd seen the results on here many times but don't think it was ever explained. And I've never worked with the stuff.::smile::
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
no real big changes to report.

i rolled 100k miles on Sept. 25th. i changed the plugs last weekend. i put in the newer version of the oem iridium plugs. they went very well.
i didnt need to pull the manifold or even unplug any of the coil pigtails. old plugs came right out, new plugs went right in. took me approximately 45min.

roughly 27,500 miles on my jim wolf clutch setup.

roughly 40,000 miles on my toyo at2's

nothing to report on either of these. it looks like ill probably get 20,000 more miles on the tires. and im still beating the heck out of the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
So a lot has happened on the last year. I just rolled 128,000 miles. So I have over 55,000 miles on my JWT clutch setup. I'm not sure why people with their equipment get only 20k miles before they change it because of slipping.



December started my current phase of modding the frontier. Tire Rack had a sale on 285 Duratracs. For $205 a piece I couldn't pass them up. Next came Ride Rite air bags. It was a little bit of a pain filling them with a tire pump, so I picked up a Viair 450c kit with a 2.5 gallon tank. I moved the battery to the bed and I placed the compressor where the battery was. I did not want all of the heat of the compressor in the bed. The reason why will follow. I installed OTRATTW switches in the console next to the 4wd selector. (Compressor on/off and airbags up/down)



Next was a call to Alcan for some +600 pound at +2" custom leaf packs.



Radflo helped me select a coilover and shock package to suit my needs and directed me to Nisstec to purchase them. I ended up with extended travel 2.5 coilovers with 650 pound springs and +2" 2.0 remote res. rear shocks.
 

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You folks w/ electrical savvy always have my utmost respect. Good mods for sure.
Signed,
Guy who uses bicycle pump on RideRites
:nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
^thanks for the kudos. I have not done any control wiring in a very long time. It was definitely a brain twister. Thankfully OTRATTW provided diagrams with PIN numbers for each switch. I mounted 2 solenoid air valves and the 2.5gal. tank under the bed and a 1/4" quick connect at the rear bumper to use to air up my tires.
 

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Awesome!!!! I have a slide in as well, how did you mount the antenna? Any trips planned?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
A quick update. Recently my wife has been suggesting that I should not continue wheeling in my daily driver. I picked up a 2005 Xterra Off Road with 142,000 miles. I have scavenged the skids, upper control arms, and Radflos to move to the X. In their place I have reinstalled the stock UCA's, the TJM extended travel coilovers that the Radflo 2.5's replaced, and a set of new +2-3" 5125's for the rear. The white knuckle sliders will stay, because they now have an integrated tie down for the camper. Also the Alcan's and ride-rites will stay, for the camper. I'll deal with the coil bucket contact for a little while. The stock arms still have some life left in them. I'm leaning toward my next mod being a Titan swap on the X. So the SPC arms will move back to the Frontier at that point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I’ve cleaned up my OP and removed some missing photobucket pics.

I’ve completed the cannibalism of the Frontier for the Xterra. Currently it sits on 305/70 Mastercraft MXT’s with OME hd coilovers and 2” Daystar spacers up front and Bilstein 5125’s for 2-4” lift in the rear. I’m not sure if I posted it before, but I also added a Curt front tow bar. I want to be able to carry some firewood, a cooler, and the grill on the front of the Frontier while carrying the camper. Is rather have the weight on the front than more on the back.

I’ll need to get some more current photos to post.
 
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