[motovate]

OK - here's the story. 2006 Nissan Frontier V6, 4x4, 6 speed.

I've had a HO25 Bank 2 Sensor 2 Heater low code for awhile (months) - but the truck ran fine and even though I did pick up all four O2 sensors I just never got around to changing them out. I did a 1,000+ mile trip with no issues and then I did about a 450 mils or so trip with no issues. I parked it after the second trip for a couple of weeks ( nose up on a little hill) until I needed to go get something - short 4-5 mile run. At that point after starting it up and running it down the road a mile or two - it started to run rough (all of a sudden). When I got back I checked it with my code reader and had a couple of miss fire codes. I just parked it for couple of weeks with the tail up on the little hill - (backed in). I decided to do another little short run - 4 - 5 miles again. It didn't run as rough but I could feel a little roughness. When I got back a did the codes again. Cleared the old codes- ran around the block and the light started blinking again and checked the codes again.

Here they are -

PO 300- multiple random cyl misfire 3/4
PO 305- 2/4 missing
PO 057 mod$ 4/4
PO 300- multiple random cyl missfire 1/4
HO 25 bank 2 sensor 2 heater low (still).

I doubt the angle I was parking had anything to do with anything- it was just a different "thing" between the 2 times so I thought I'd point out the difference. Also between the first and 2ed session my battery completely died - no rechargeability. I put in a good used fully charged battery for the 2ed session and have a new battery now to put in. When it was running the Voltmeter showed used battery was good. So full voltage both times.

Looks like both banks of cylinders are involved.

When it is running rough I can run up the rpm and it smooths out and keeps running - only feel the roughness at idle and a maybe up to 2000 rpm but the light comes on and then starts blinking,

Anyone have any Idea what is happening here?

Also wondering if there is anyone from Northern Arizona who has had good luck with a shop or a dealer in the Prescott or Flagstaff Arizona area? I live kind of in between - not in a town and I'll have to load the truck on a trailer and haul it somewhere.

Thanks

LBM

 

[smj999smj]

First things first: rear O2 sensors are monitoring sensors and will not cause rough running nor drivability issues. Also, O2 sensor heater issues will also not cause misfires, no matter what sensor they fail in. P0057 is also a code for the Band 2/Sensor 2 oxygen sensor. So, it looks like you need a rear oxygen sensor on the left, or driver's side (North American models). That will usually take care of those codes.

P0300 is a random misfire code not specific to any cylinder. I'm not sure why your scanner is showing 3/4 after it? If it was misfiring on #3 and 4 cylinders, there should be P0303 and P0304 codes.

P0305 is a cylinder #5 misfire. Again, I have no idea why your scanner is showing "2/4 missing." Cylinders #2 and 4 have nothing to do with a P0305 code. Anything that can cause #5 cylinder to misfire can cause this code, as well as the P0300, to trigger. Flashing MIL is an indication of a problem that can be detrimental to the catalytic converter and is usually ignition related. I would check the #5 spark plug and swap the #5 ignition coil with another coil; erase the code and see if the code travels to the other cylinder. If it does, replace the ignition coil. Other things that can cause a single cylinder misfire is a failed coil boot, failed spark plug tube seal allowing oil into the spark plug well, a bad fuel injector or a mechanical issue with the engine (valves/piston/head gasket).

 

[motovate]

Thanks - appreciate the info. I understand the driver side rear sensor is a monitoring sensor - that's why I wasn't in too big of a hurry to change it out. When I ordered that sensor I decided to get the other 3 and just change them all out at the same time to start fresh since it was a new to me used truck. Just never got tuit.

So the 2 PO 300 codes showing 1/4 and 2/4 are not specific and probably showed up because of the PO 305 code????

It looks like cyl 5 may be the issue. If I understand it to get to the Rside cyl 1,3,5 spark plug/coil I have to pull a lot of stuff out of the way including the intake manifold??? to get to the coils. I was thinking about changing out the spark plugs and I did figure out that there is no spark plug wires on this rig when I could not find them but did find the coils on the left side 2/4/6 cyls. I'm getting older school by the minute!

Thanks

 

[Sabretooth]

With your misfires I wouldn't be trying to run it find the problem your just gonna be making it worse wiping out your cat, valve seals ect. you know your dumping raw fuel down there because the cylinder is not firing. First I would check your wiring at coils n injectors and check everywhere else

Just a guess but it kinda sounds like you might of had some sweet little mouse/rat nest in there and chew your wiring but they really like to nest under the intake plenum and you know whats right there the wiring for the coils and the injectors.
I know from experience and had to splice about half the car back together from the junkyard because Toyota wanted over 4k to do it

 

[smj999smj]

Thanks - appreciate the info. I understand the driver side rear sensor is a monitoring sensor - that's why I wasn't in too big of a hurry to change it out. When I ordered that sensor I decided to get the other 3 and just change them all out at the same time to start fresh since it was a new to me used truck. Just never got tuit.

So the 2 PO 300 codes showing 1/4 and 2/4 are not specific and probably showed up because of the PO 305 code????

It looks like cyl 5 may be the issue. If I understand it to get to the Rside cyl 1,3,5 spark plug/coil I have to pull a lot of stuff out of the way including the intake manifold??? to get to the coils. I was thinking about changing out the spark plugs and I did figure out that there is no spark plug wires on this rig when I could not find them but did find the coils on the left side 2/4/6 cyls. I'm getting older school by the minute!

Thanks

Cylinder #5 is not under the intake plenum; it is the coil furthest back on the right bank (#1 and #3 are under the plenum). I would swap #5 with one of the coil packs on the left bank, erase the codes and take a quick road test to see if the code follows the coil pack. When you pull the #5 coil, it wouldn't be a bad idea to also remove the spark plug for inspection, to make sure there are no cracks and to make sure it's not gas or oil fouled.

Again, I don't see the meaning of the "1/4" and "2/4" with the P0300 code; you'll have to read the manual for your scanner to find out the significance of those numbers. Anytime a specific cylinder misfire is detected, it will almost always trigger a P0300 random misfire code, as well. Random misfire means just that: the ECM has detected a misfire "somewhere." Having a specific misfire code, like P0305, is much more definitive to the misfire location and a lot more helpful. If "1/2" and "2/4" were misfire indicators, you should have the codes: P0301, P0302 and P0304. I'm thinking that maybe they are some type of time reference, but I don't know for certain; again, you'll have to refer to your scanner's manuals to figure that out.

 

[motovate]

Yea-------- I'm a little bit concerned with that. I had a Kia Rio that had a little crawly thing get in under the engine cover and chew up a spark plug wire. I was lucky - it was easy to get the cover off and I had an old but good plug wire that I replaced the one that was chewed off. Worked and I left the cover off so I could see if it happened again. I don't think this one will be that easy. Thanks. LBM

With your misfires I wouldn't be trying to run it find the problem your just gonna be making it worse wiping out your cat, valve seals ect. you know your dumping raw fuel down there because the cylinder is not firing. First I would check your wiring at coils n injectors and check everywhere else

Just a guess but it kinda sounds like you might of had some sweet little mouse/rat nest in there and chew your wiring but they really like to nest under the intake plenum and you know whats right there the wiring for the coils and the injectors.
I know from experience and had to splice about half the car back together from the junkyard because Toyota wanted over 4k to do it

OK copying now - I'll see what I can see & do with cyl 5 and switching the coil pack with one on the 2/4/6 side. This rig has about 130,000 miles on it. Probably should just change out all the plugs??????????? Thanks - LBM

Cylinder #5 is not under the intake plenum; it is the coil furthest back on the right bank (#1 and #3 are under the plenum). I would swap #5 with one of the coil packs on the left bank, erase the codes and take a quick road test to see if the code follows the coil pack. When you pull the #5 coil, it wouldn't be a bad idea to also remove the spark plug for inspection, to make sure there are no cracks and to make sure it's not gas or oil fouled.

Again, I don't see the meaning of the "1/4" and "2/4" with the P0300 code; you'll have to read the manual for your scanner to find out the significance of those numbers. Anytime a specific cylinder misfire is detected, it will almost always trigger a P0300 random misfire code, as well. Random misfire means just that: the ECM has detected a misfire "somewhere." Having a specific misfire code, like P0305, is much more definitive to the misfire location and a lot more helpful. If "1/2" and "2/4" were misfire indicators, you should have the codes: P0301, P0302 and P0304. I'm thinking that maybe they are some type of time reference, but I don't know for certain; again, you'll have to refer to your scanner's manuals to figure that out.

 

[Sabretooth]

Yeah just like you stated and went to leave one morning I started it up it ran but kinda sounded weird then as I was pulling down to the gate ck engine light lit up so turned around to check the codes multiple misfires O2 among others.
They got a couple of the injector wiring the coils a few vacuum lines even the pcv guess it was like a smorgasbord for them so after I finished putting the Camry back together that they had chewed up I just left off the engine cover an put rat-away around everything

 

[motovate]

It's been 4 months, life got in the way and the Frontier set. I finally broke down and hauled it 50+ miles over to a Nissan Dealer. I knew it would probably cost more but I couldn't find anyone closer who had a clue about the Frontier including knowing the issue regarding getting to all the spark plugs. Found the main problem to be a squirrel bite into the #5 wiring to the coil. The miss turned into an intermittent miss that quit missing as I got ready to load it on the trailer. They found that problem within an hour of looking & switching coils that didn't fix the problem. The actual cost to fix it seemed to be pretty reasonable. I had ask them to check the plugs since it was a new to me rig and all I could find was one note on the 71,500 mile service page that had them changed about 60,000 miles ago - that said change plugs. I had them go ahead and change them out and install the 4 O2 sensors that I already had. I wanted all the parts back. Had the correct plugs in it so they might be originals or I suspect 2 were and 4 were changed without pulling the plenum - all looked a bit worn but 2 of them were more worn the others. Interesting tid bit, they charged me $13.15 per plug which was actually .84 less then either Auto Zone or O'Reillys - the closest parts store to where I live ( 35 miles one way). They were not real happy to use my sensors but since I had them already I didn't want to buy more. So they charged me flat rate for the O2 sensors and then for replacing the plugs and about 1.5 hours to diagnose and fix the chewed wires. Took them about 3.5 to 4 hours to get it done with a 1 hour break for lunch, I was there for about 4.5 hours and they washed the outside which was pretty bad after sitting for so long. They beat flat rate by 3 or so hours so and I had about a 2.5 hour round trip. But I got it done and now I can use the little truck instead of having to drive the big ole 3/4 T rig around! So I'm kinda grumbling at the extra blue sky but I sorta made my living for awhile on flat rate and I know how it works. At least I'm not paying for a truck and license/insurance for a truck to sit. Oh yea - it rained after I got home - so much for the new wash job! Going Squirrel hunting!!!!LBM

 

[Undercover Brother]

Glad to hear it is fixed. Nice to have a dealer that actually knows how to troubleshoot rather than shoot the parts cannon at it guessing. Money well spent.

 

[smj999smj]

Honda sells rodent deterrent tape (#4019-2317) for people that have issues with rodents eating or chewing on their harness. It's laced with pepper and you wrap it around your wires, vacuum lines...wherever you feel it may be necessary. It runs about $34 for a 19mm x 20-meter roll.

 

[explorerman]

Just as an addition, the 1/4, 2/4, 3/4, 4/4 that your code reader is showing is probably just the number of errors being reported.
PO 300- multiple random cyl misfire 3/4 is probably just the 3rd of 4th errors. My reader (I forget what it is but it's orange lol) does the same thing.

 

[motovate]

Now that's a good Idea - I'm going to check that out!!!
LBM

Honda sells rodent deterrent tape (#4019-2317) for people that have issues with rodents eating or chewing on their harness. It's laced with pepper and you wrap it around your wires, vacuum lines...wherever you feel it may be necessary. It runs about $34 for a 19mm x 20-meter roll.