Nissan Frontier Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well its about the time to do the first oil change on my truck . Only has 3,400 miles. So what motor oil do you guys recommend. I wanna hear what you guys use and what are some of its advantages.

hope to get many replies.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,048 Posts
When my truck was new ('01) I changed the oil every 2000 miles, filter every 4K, for the 1st 25K. Used any 5/30 dino and filter combo. At 25K I switched to synthetic and a quality oil filter. Currently using K&N filters and amsoil w/10K intervals. I read somewhere that the '05s have chrome rings that take a while to seat, so it's not a good idea to go to synthetic too soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I am currently reviewing the synthetic oils on the market; I have an 05 with 4500 miles and need to get smarter on the compatibility of the fluids with the seals. The local OEM was not helpful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
I changed to Redline 5w30 at 3400 miles, using the OEM filter. The OEM filter is high quality and flows well. The OEM is really a good compromise between Ultra High Filtration and good flow... The Mobil 1 filter is great at filtration but the flow is in the lower average...

You can change as early as you want, the thought that engines are not broken in properly is outdated... Unless you're rebuilding your own engine you don't need to worry. Mobil 1 is a factory fill on many models.

Also don't worry about the seals and whatnot. Thats also outdated as hell, modern synthetics don't do that anymore and will NOT cause leaks.

Redline is expensive, one of the most expensive there is. This is because it is a Group V oil made totally from Polyol Ester base (organic fats, corn, etc), and it is LOADED with Moly for added protection and lubrication. Polyol Ester is expensive (so is moly) but it allows for better, uniform molecule creation. The only issue is the Redline like to absorb some water, and although most of the water will boil off the oil retains some of it. See below for more info.

Amsoil is great too, i used it in an older car. Amsoil, Mobil1, Royal Purple are primarly Group IV oils, using PAO base stocks building molecules on something called Olefin or something like that. It's a great base to build molecules too, fully synthetic like Group V's... Most of those oils use Zinc to give the almost the same properties as moly with lower cost. Amsoil and other Group IV's don't have the same water absorption as Redline, but PAO based oils have a tendency to thicken toward then end of their change interval which will raise the resistance...

(i am redline biased btw, i love the stuff and know the owner... you can call him on the phone!)

One thing to note, Amsoil is better for extended oil changes. Redline will go 10k, no problem, but amsoil beats it past that (although it can thicken as previously stated). Redline past 10k begins to absorb any moisture in the engine so the Owner recommends not passing 10k to be safe. Below 10k this is not a problem at all... I change redline every 4k so i could care less...

if you want to go synthetic ONLY USE redline/mobil 1/royal purple/amsoil/German Castrol (if you can find it, i don't know about it and personally i dont trust it). These are really the only TRUE synthetics out there. Castrol Syntec, Quaker State, Kendall, any other oil claiming to be synthetic is probably a Group III synthetic, which is not truly synthetic (Dino oil molecule base stock, so it's not true) (some people claiim Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic, but i have yet to see hard facts so I still am on the "mobil is a true synthetic" camp)

Personally I swapped EVERYTHING to redline synthetic @ 3400 mi... Engine/Front&Rear Diffs/Tranny/Transfer Case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the reply...I changed my oil today. I called different dealers to ask what brand and weight oil they use on 05 fronty's and they all said Castrol GTX 5w30 so thats what i went with. On my next oil change i will def change to Mobil 1. Hope you would have posted earlier so i could have gone synthetic already. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
This is great information... you have sparked some of the old brain cells; however, I have had some unfortunate experiences with PAO's and phosphate esters with dynamic and static seal failures. (viton, EPR Buna-N etc) you are probably correct in that I will probably not realize a failure. The synthetic affinity for water is something that I also have experience with in industrial fluids. This is a great point; however, boiling of the water is not likely.... and where does the water go, it condenses on the engine internals under the EHC conditions at the journals this may result in phase change and bearing damage. I have seen PAO's in the 600 PPM range for water in desert conditions and don’t have a feeling for the humid conditions, obviously the adsorbed water could be a long term concern. I can’t remember how the synthetics deal with acid formation if any... As you have indicated there is a great number of products and I need to weigh the advantages and the disadvantages of each. Thanks for the Info
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
My truck had Castrol synthetic blend 5w30 at 3000 miles- the first oil change(free from dealer)After that I have changed it myself with OEM filters every 3000,using the same Castrol blend....for now.

I just did the 9000 mile oil change,and I plan on going to Mobile 1, 5w30 after 15,000 mile mark.I will also go to 5000 mile intervals at that time.I have had great results in my other Nissan(sr20de).
Mobile 1 oil at 5000 miles looks cleaner than dino oil at 3000 miles,according to my experience.I do not switch to full synthetics until there is a good amount of break in on the engine(15-25,000 miles)

I think synthetic blends are a bad buy,since there are no guidelines on how much synthetics is in the oil to call it a "blend".If I want a synthetic blend ,why not blend it myself and know what I am putting in there?

Just my .02
Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nismo4me said:
My truck had Castrol synthetic blend 5w30 at 3000 miles- the first oil change(free from dealer)After that I have changed it myself with OEM filters every 3000,using the same Castrol blend....for now.

I just did the 9000 mile oil change,and I plan on going to Mobile 1, 5w30 after 15,000 mile mark.I will also go to 5000 mile intervals at that time.I have had great results in my other Nissan(sr20de).
Mobile 1 oil at 5000 miles looks cleaner than dino oil at 3000 miles,according to my experience.I do not switch to full synthetics until there is a good amount of break in on the engine(15-25,000 miles)

I think synthetic blends are a bad buy,since there are no guidelines on how much synthetics is in the oil to call it a "blend".If I want a synthetic blend ,why not blend it myself and know what I am putting in there?

Just my .02
Jay
Seems like a great plan with some thought to go along with it. Take steps into taking the engine to full synthetic.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top