Well, the manufacturer says to use 0-20W in my 2023 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X which to me seems kind of light for a truck so I'll ask another sissy question. I have 20 quarts of 5-30W mobile 1 extended life in the cabinet that I was using in another vehicle I had. Do any of you see any problem with using 5-30W in place of 0-20W mobile 1.
nvrpc1
Check the owner's manual. While 0W-20 is recommended, often they will list other grades that are acceptable, but are dependent on the expected ambient operating temperature.
If you know more than the engineering designers of the engine, then go ahead and use up your 5w-30 oil.
I'd say stick to 0w20 but I honestly can't see an issue with 5w30 unless you're way up north.
That said, I'd like to wait a few more years(5 or so) and see if we're seeing any noticeable engine failures.
That said, I'd like to wait a few more years(5 or so) and see if we're seeing any noticeable engine failures.
Like stated by others, you'll be fine with that Mobil1 extended performance 5W-30, since it's GF-6A rated and that's what spec the Nissan FSM refers to, for when 0W-20 isn't available.
As others will state the vehicle calls for 0W-20. I understand that might seem light to you but also understand that Toyota's going a bit crazier on that too.
What is my suggestion to you? Use what the manufacturer calls for. It's already tested and proven to work just fine. If you do not use what the manufacture calls for and go with a different thicker weight oil and you end up having some engine trouble down the road that ends up in a catastrophic failure, Nissan will have no problems taking an engine oil sample to find out what you might have. They might not be able to figure out the exact brand, but they will be able to figure out the weight of the oil.
What is my suggestion to you? Use what the manufacturer calls for. It's already tested and proven to work just fine. If you do not use what the manufacture calls for and go with a different thicker weight oil and you end up having some engine trouble down the road that ends up in a catastrophic failure, Nissan will have no problems taking an engine oil sample to find out what you might have. They might not be able to figure out the exact brand, but they will be able to figure out the weight of the oil.
I'll post the real information here at the beginning before this spirals into a months long debate -
0w-20 was designed for pure MPG and emissions efficiency and not really any other reason; motor engineers did not come up with it to solve a mechanical problem, engineers had nothing to do with the transition to 0w-20 because it's a result of shifting government regulations. However it is a modern synthetic stock oil and is likely still plenty robust. You can extrapolate the idea the motor will wear faster using it but there is no dataset yet to back this up.
5w-30 is perfectly fine and your motor will happily run on it forever. It is a tried and true product and in synthetic form is wildly robust and works well in almost all temperatures and situations on a gasoline ICE.
5w-30 isn't being recommended because it is being intentionally phased out and replaced by 0w-20 and 5w-20. Notice the shrinking 5w-30 selection and stock at your auto store? I have. And virtually every new car sold today recommends 0w-20, even ones that have the exact same motor as 4 years ago when they were still recommending 5w-30.
Your dealership could theoretically use this to void the warranty, however that is pretty unlikely. So long as the oil isn't fouled sludge they aren't going to be looking into the viscosity; pouring out the drain and into a basin the difference between 0w-20 and 5w-30 isn't really apparent when it's used. I have personally never heard of a dealer doing this and I don't know why they would ever test the viscosity of what appears to be normal engine oil. But, technically this could happen.
Those are the facts, extrapolate them as you will. And note that people get weirdly passionate about this and are going to start talking passively aggressively and asking you why you think you know more than the engineers and talking about tiny oil passages only 0w-20 can go through and all sorts of other made up nonsense. I explained the reality above. Functionally the difference between 5w-30 and 0w-20 is like a 10% deviation. Realistically? Probably doesn't matter, like at all. Use 5w-20 if you want, too.
0w-20 was designed for pure MPG and emissions efficiency and not really any other reason; motor engineers did not come up with it to solve a mechanical problem, engineers had nothing to do with the transition to 0w-20 because it's a result of shifting government regulations. However it is a modern synthetic stock oil and is likely still plenty robust. You can extrapolate the idea the motor will wear faster using it but there is no dataset yet to back this up.
5w-30 is perfectly fine and your motor will happily run on it forever. It is a tried and true product and in synthetic form is wildly robust and works well in almost all temperatures and situations on a gasoline ICE.
5w-30 isn't being recommended because it is being intentionally phased out and replaced by 0w-20 and 5w-20. Notice the shrinking 5w-30 selection and stock at your auto store? I have. And virtually every new car sold today recommends 0w-20, even ones that have the exact same motor as 4 years ago when they were still recommending 5w-30.
Your dealership could theoretically use this to void the warranty, however that is pretty unlikely. So long as the oil isn't fouled sludge they aren't going to be looking into the viscosity; pouring out the drain and into a basin the difference between 0w-20 and 5w-30 isn't really apparent when it's used. I have personally never heard of a dealer doing this and I don't know why they would ever test the viscosity of what appears to be normal engine oil. But, technically this could happen.
Those are the facts, extrapolate them as you will. And note that people get weirdly passionate about this and are going to start talking passively aggressively and asking you why you think you know more than the engineers and talking about tiny oil passages only 0w-20 can go through and all sorts of other made up nonsense. I explained the reality above. Functionally the difference between 5w-30 and 0w-20 is like a 10% deviation. Realistically? Probably doesn't matter, like at all. Use 5w-20 if you want, too.
Yes, as long as it's 0W-20 or 5W-30 or 5W-40 or 10W-30 or 10W-40 or 10W-50 or 15W-40 or 15W-50 or 20W-40 or 20W-50.
API Class SN or SP, of course.
All according to the fine folks at Nissan Mexicana.
The folks at Nissan USA will likely try to screw you on engine warranty claims for using other than 0W-20, so keep that in mind.
.
API Class SN or SP, of course.
All according to the fine folks at Nissan Mexicana.
The folks at Nissan USA will likely try to screw you on engine warranty claims for using other than 0W-20, so keep that in mind.
.
Any oil should work, I mean, it is all over the news that P.Diddler used baby oil... that's not what we're talking about here? My apologies, I think I went off topic... lol j/k
How many People on this Site had engine blow up under warranty and Dealer checked oil sample and it was 5-30 ? 🤔đź¤
simple words. 0W20 is for EPA and marketing. 0W30 is for engineers. I have been using 0w30 since the first oil change. Didn't notice any mpg change, but the engine runs much smoother.
Same case for many of my Toyota Lexus, same engine but different viscosity "recommended".
0w30 for longevity.
Same case for many of my Toyota Lexus, same engine but different viscosity "recommended".
0w30 for longevity.
Just some (partially) anecdotal statements on 0w30 and 0w40 oils.
I have a '21 Porsche 911 C4S. So a twin-turbo flat 6 444HP and gets driven hard in track use.
Porsche manual says you need to use a Porsche C40 rated oil, however the change from A40 oils
is mostly due to gasoline direct injection and gas particulate filters (which are coming for every
direct injected gasoline engine at some point)
Porsche says Mobil 1 0w-40 ESP x4 (formerly x3) which is a Porsche C40 oil is the oil to use on it, in fact they just pulled every other certification for the 2 other oils I can get easily in the US that are C40 rated) Motul 5w40, Castrol Edge 5w40 and Liqui-Moly 5w40).
So since the thing is under warranty I use the Mobil 1 0w-40. I have pulled oil samples and
sent them into Blackstone after 2 track days (and just a few miles driving to and from the track other than that) and the oil has sheared down to a 30W oil.
But in my opinion the fact remains that Mobil 1 ESP is really a 0w30 oil masquerading as a 0w40 oil.
Note that H 4/6 engines and especially turbo ones are hard on oil in terms of shear resistance. I have run other H4/6 engines on Motul 5w30 and they don't shear down as much as the 5w30 Mobil 1 I mistakenly tried to use one time. After 3K miles in a turbo H4 application it had sheared to a 20W oil.
But what tells the story for me is that Motul, Castrol and Liqui-Moly have not even tried to
produce a Porsche C40 0w40 oil (they make other non-C40 0w40 oils). This tells me that 0w40 (and 0w30) oils are hard to formulate and when you through the C40 specification into the mix they are darn near impossible.
In my opinion it is the 0w part of the equation (well until the marketing department gets hold of the specifications) that makes the 0w30/40 oils prone to breakdown earlier than 5w40 oils and
that Mobil 1 has a very good marketing team that adds +10 to the actual weight of the oil in use.
I have a '21 Porsche 911 C4S. So a twin-turbo flat 6 444HP and gets driven hard in track use.
Porsche manual says you need to use a Porsche C40 rated oil, however the change from A40 oils
is mostly due to gasoline direct injection and gas particulate filters (which are coming for every
direct injected gasoline engine at some point)
Porsche says Mobil 1 0w-40 ESP x4 (formerly x3) which is a Porsche C40 oil is the oil to use on it, in fact they just pulled every other certification for the 2 other oils I can get easily in the US that are C40 rated) Motul 5w40, Castrol Edge 5w40 and Liqui-Moly 5w40).
So since the thing is under warranty I use the Mobil 1 0w-40. I have pulled oil samples and
sent them into Blackstone after 2 track days (and just a few miles driving to and from the track other than that) and the oil has sheared down to a 30W oil.
But in my opinion the fact remains that Mobil 1 ESP is really a 0w30 oil masquerading as a 0w40 oil.
Note that H 4/6 engines and especially turbo ones are hard on oil in terms of shear resistance. I have run other H4/6 engines on Motul 5w30 and they don't shear down as much as the 5w30 Mobil 1 I mistakenly tried to use one time. After 3K miles in a turbo H4 application it had sheared to a 20W oil.
But what tells the story for me is that Motul, Castrol and Liqui-Moly have not even tried to
produce a Porsche C40 0w40 oil (they make other non-C40 0w40 oils). This tells me that 0w40 (and 0w30) oils are hard to formulate and when you through the C40 specification into the mix they are darn near impossible.
In my opinion it is the 0w part of the equation (well until the marketing department gets hold of the specifications) that makes the 0w30/40 oils prone to breakdown earlier than 5w40 oils and
that Mobil 1 has a very good marketing team that adds +10 to the actual weight of the oil in use.
Dang...I love a good oil thread.
I run the recommended 0W-20 and haven't had any issues. One of the things to consider is that modern engines are designed to take advantage of thinner oil. Oil passages are smaller, so a thicker oil may cause some modern engines to be oil starved as they can't pump the thicker oil through the smaller passages quickly enough.
In contrast, I have a BMW motorcycle that has a 1200cc air/oil cooled engine. Very very tough on oil. I run 20W-50 in that engine, but it's designed to run that weight of oil.
I run the recommended 0W-20 and haven't had any issues. One of the things to consider is that modern engines are designed to take advantage of thinner oil. Oil passages are smaller, so a thicker oil may cause some modern engines to be oil starved as they can't pump the thicker oil through the smaller passages quickly enough.
In contrast, I have a BMW motorcycle that has a 1200cc air/oil cooled engine. Very very tough on oil. I run 20W-50 in that engine, but it's designed to run that weight of oil.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
