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Discussion Starter #1
I put the MAS as a topic, because here is what is going on with my vehicle. which is a 04' Frontier 2.4L KA24DE...
What I have done to the truck within the last year.

I ended up getting a catalytic converter welded on this past December(2016) since the factory cat went out.
I and two of my friends installed a new Distributor (Earlier this month about 14th of January 2017)(ebay from a seller called "Parts Player")
Changed Sparkplugs and wireset around late November 2016 (NGK and Oriellys wireset)
Changed Crankshaft Position Sensor back in August or September in 2016
Installed new Shocks back in the summer of 2016.
new fuel filter about 2 weeks ago.

yesterday, My truck decided to just short out on me at a Kroger parking lot on my way to get some fuel due to it running low.
when that happened, a random couple show up to give me a jump. (that was about 10-15mins after initial stall of vehicle)
I pump gas, get to a read light not far and then, truck stalls again.
I get help from random people to push the truck to a nearby parking lot of walgreens, where the truck sat overnight, while i took the battery back to home and have it on a charge through the night.

earlier today about 8am, My dad installs the battery, the truck starts running, as my dad checked the alternator if it's bad, he takes off one of the battery connectors and the engine was still running. we start the travel, midway through travel, my vehicle starts going into some type of problem which the rpms are losing, and then gaining...while going about 50-60mph, then i came to a complete stop. my dad and i go home, grab some rope and then we used the family sedan to pull the truck to a local NAPA autoparts to get the battery tested (tested as low in charge).

initially, i thought the stall the first time could have been the alternator, except i still had lights and i was able to turn the engine over, but no dice on a complete running engine.
now we have the truck to a man my dad knows which i assume he is a retired mechanic, he told me it could be the distributor causing this problem, but what doesn't make sense to me, when we installed the old distributor, we have the engine running for a little bit, bot h my dad and the machanic tell me to put a little gas into it....when I press down on the gas petal, i lose rpms and the truck dies.

So, I am putting this out there.
Could a mass airflow sensor cause the fuel/air mix ratio to be off, if the sensor itself is...dirty or literally broke?

what are your thoughts Frontier Community? :crying:
 

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Alternator?
Checked fuel pressure? Fuel pump??
 

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First of all, never remove a battery cable from the battery of a running, computer-controlled engine; this could cause a voltage surge that can take out an ECM or other control unit. That method was used back in the days before computers.

The alternator should be checked using a voltmeter after first making sure the battery and its connections are good and the alternator belt is not loose. Static battery charge should be about 12.2 volts. Running, charging system voltage should be between 13.2 and 15.5 volts (most Nissans typically charge around 14.7 volts) at idle and at 3000 RPM, with and without loads "on." Also, if the system is not charging, turn the key to the "on" position, engine not running, and make sure the charging system warning light is illuminated. If not, check the bulb in the cluster as this will prevent the charging system from working properly. Another common issue with not charging is the 10-gauge, while wire attached to the "BAT" connection on back of the alternator. This wire provides power via a large, fusible link. Sometimes this wire will develop excessive resistance and burn up.

The fuel pressure "seems" normal? Is that a guess or did we confirm proper pressure with a fuel pressure gauge? Fuel pressure should be about 40-45 PSI static and about 34-36 PSI running and regulated. With any problem, one needs to start with the basics. If the fuel pressure, battery and charging system are properly tested and known to be good, then the problem "could" be a bad distributor. A bad distributor would cause no or inconsistent spark. If the engine stalls and will not restart, check for spark. If there's no spark, then there is a very good chance of a bad distributor. However, if the engine runs, but just runs poorly, one would need to view the spark patterns on an oscilloscope to make a clearer decision on a bad distributor. If a lean condition is suspect, first try looking for possible leaks, such as a stuck open EGR valve, split vacuum hoses or intake air duct or a leaking intake gasket. You could try unplugging the MAS to see how it runs, as well.

You also never mention about checking for stored codes. You can find out how to do this at:

Nissan ? OBD/OBD2 Trouble Codes

Keep in mind there may be old codes stored in the system if they were not erased in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
"First of all, never remove a battery cable from the battery of a running, computer-controlled engine; this could cause a voltage surge that can take out an ECM or other control unit. That method was used back in the days before computers."

I agree, but my father was taking a guess if it was the alternator that shortened out. I didn't know about that, so i appreciate you giving me that information.

"The fuel pressure "seems" normal? Is that a guess or did we confirm proper pressure with a fuel pressure gauge? Fuel pressure should be about 40-45 PSI static and about 34-36 PSI running and regulated. With any problem, one needs to start with the basics. If the fuel pressure, battery and charging system are properly tested and known to be good, then the problem "could" be a bad distributor. A bad distributor would cause no or inconsistent spark. If the engine stalls and will not restart, check for spark. If there's no spark, then there is a very good chance of a bad distributor. However, if the engine runs, but just runs poorly, one would need to view the spark patterns on an oscilloscope to make a clearer decision on a bad distributor. If a lean condition is suspect, first try looking for possible leaks, such as a stuck open EGR valve, split vacuum hoses or intake air duct or a leaking intake gasket. You could try unplugging the MAS to see how it runs, as well."

"The fuel pressure "seems" normal? Is that a guess or did we confirm proper pressure with a fuel pressure gauge? Fuel pressure should be about 40-45 PSI static and about 34-36 PSI running and regulated."

The machanic ended up taking out the fuel pump and physically and seeing if the motor of the pump works as well as if it makes suction....i'm saying i guess because at the time he was doing that, i went to the autoparts store to get a set of sparkplugs, which at the time both my father and the mechanic told me to get.
 

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Well, removing the pump was totally unnecessary to see if it was working and it still doesn't tell you if it is making proper pressure. A pump could be working, but if it is only putting out 25 PSI, it's still not good. All that had to be done was to install a fuel pressure gauge, which you can get at a parts store with a tool loaner program if you don't have one, turn the key "on" to check for static pressure and, if you can get the engine to start, start the engine and check the running fuel pressure, which will let you know if the regulator is working.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update: I rented a OBD 2 Scanner....

So I ended up reading out 3 codes:

(1 of 3) P0340 - Camshaft Sensor Circuit Failure
(2 of 3) P0138 - H02S2 Bank 1
(3 of 3) P0138 - H02S2 Bank 1


Now what gets me, I asked the autozone rep if he had a cameshaft sensor for sale...it's non-existent in their system as a separate sensor.
now the crankshaft position sensor and also the mass airflow sensor are separate...but we end up finding out the sensor is part of the distributor.

I just got a distributor from NAPA 3-4 days ago...so would that mean i need to exchange that too?

what would you say smj999smj??
 

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Nissan OEM distributor replacement out of the question?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update:
My father and I were able to crank the truck. it was idling fair...but when he messes around with the throttle near the intake. there was a hissing noise, we checked it out...and turns out the vacuum line that leads from the egr to the bpt egr control valve, exploded?..which is why i heard an explosion noise before my vehicle stalled on the highway back on sunday. it looks like i need to change the egr control valve if there was an explosion towards that device, but i still have to test the egr valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update:

I got the egr control valve in, i visited my local nissan dealership to get a vacuum hose that will fit between the egr exit tube into the egr control valve.

i popped in my code reader as the vehicle was idling, it idles normal, except when i press on the accelerator to rev up the engine, the rpms do not go past 2000.

so I get the code P0340:
the cause for the code are the following:
Wiring
CMP sensor
Starter motor
ECM

at least that is the list which the torque app gives me from the obd2 reader.

anyone have any suggestions?
Is a CMP sensor the same thing as a mass airflow sensor? if it is, i already changed that last week on sunday.
starter motor is good
what is ecm?
if wiring...where to start??

help a fellow frontier owner.
 

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You're getting a P0340 - Camshaft Sensor Circuit Failure, that sensor is an integral part of the distributor, and it's not clear why the distributor was replaced in the first place. If the OEM distributor wasn't known bad then put it back in and see if your P0340 goes away. As I think other folks have pointed out, aftermarket distributors have been known to fail.

In any case, the EC (Engine Control) section of the FSM has a detailed diagnosis procedure for P0340 using a plain old DVM.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You're getting a P0340 - Camshaft Sensor Circuit Failure, that sensor is an integral part of the distributor, and it's not clear why the distributor was replaced in the first place. If the OEM distributor wasn't known bad then put it back in and see if your P0340 goes away. As I think other folks have pointed out, aftermarket distributors have been known to fail.

In any case, the EC (Engine Control) section of the FSM has a detailed diagnosis procedure for P0340 using a plain old DVM.
What if I take the sensor out of the old distributor and apply it to the new one?
 

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Other people smarter than me are going to have to answer your question. From what the FSM shows, it's not separately replaceable, but of course car companies love to spend your money.

Do you know for sure that the old distributor was bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yes, it wasn't causing spark to cylinder #4 and it was throwing everything off from driving to timing..not to mention violent shakes in the engine bay as well...well at the time.

How do i go about resetting the ECM(ECU) for a frontier anyway? Would I need to unplug one of the connectors to the battery and let it sit for about 10 mins before connecting it back? I haven't gone that route yet.
 

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There's a link to the FSM in my post above. It will tell you how to reset the ECU.

It's unlikely that the distributor would cause a misfire in one cylinder. The distributor cap, yes, that's entirely possible. And I assume that the new distributor came with a new cap and rotor, so if it were me trying to chase down a P0340 after I put in an eBay distributor, I'd be tempted to just swap the OEM distributor back in, keeping the eBay distributor's cap and rotor. That would be, what, a ten minute job? Taking pic's with your cellphone and putting the rotor in exactly the same position as previous one.

Just a thought: You did set the timing to factory specs after R&R'ing the distributor, right? With a timing light? If not then that's the first thing I'd do.
 

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After you fixed the vacuum leak, the codes should have been erased and then checked after running the engine to see if they reset. It's possible that the cam sensor code is an old code and has nothing to do with the current misfire. To check a misfire on one cylinder, the first thing to do is see if there is spark going to the plug and that the spark plug is good and not fouled. If that's good, compression should be checked on that cylinder to see if it's within specs. If that's good, disconnect the fuel injector harness on the incident cylinder, turn the key "on" and use a 12v test light to check for power. If there is power, then install a "noid light" into the injector harness connector and start the engine to see if the noid light flashes. If it flashes, then the ECM is pulsing the ground circuit and there is likely a bad fuel injector. If it doesn't flash, the ground circuit between the injector harness connector and the ECM connector must be checked for an open or short. If that circuit is good, check the ECM ground circuits at the ECM harness connector; there should be good continuity to ground with minimal resistance. If that's good, then the ECM likely has a bad driver and needs to be repaired or replaced.
 
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