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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 4wd/4dr/V6/2000 Frontier with a 5 speed transmission. The guy I bought it from thought the clutch might be going bad since he started to notice grinding when going into 3rd gear. Since I have bought the truck I have noticed some grinding, but mainly when down-shifting from 4th to 3rd and on occasion when going from to 2nd to 1st gear. The clutch pedal itself does not feel real stiff and it seems to have a high release point when letting it out. Are the two related? Any ideas what might be causing one or both of these to happen?
 

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My manual is a little finicky.

I was getting some notchy grinding mostly on upshifts (2-3), but changing the transmission fluid back to Nissan MTF has helped.

I also have to really make sure that the clutch is right down to the floor to prevent this notchy grinding.
 

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The guy I bought it from thought the clutch might be going bad since he started to notice grinding when going into 3rd gear.
Thats funny. The guy I bought mine from said the exact thing(Clutch was fine).

I can recommend from my experience a premium quality synthetic gear oil (I use Redline MT-90 GL-4) can remedy your issue.

Just use what your owners manual or service manual specifies. Using the search feature on this site helped with the actual process.

Nissan MTF has helped.

I also have to really make sure that the clutch is right down to the floor to prevent this notchy grinding.
Wow. Twilight Zone. :laugh: Same issue here. A pedal adjustment, new slave cylinder and new fluid(just have a buddy help bleed the line)

Completely solved it for me. Total cost for parts and fluid $22.00

Ive heard good things about Nissan MTF as well.
 

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im also gonna say that your synchros are starting to go bad

mine grinds from 1st to 2nd when cold, so i just double clutch it, once warm (or when its warm out) it goes away
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A pedal adjustment, new slave cylinder and new fluid(just have a buddy help bleed the line)

Completely solved it for me. Total cost for parts and fluid $22.00
A friend of mine looked at the slave cylinder and the fluid and he thought they had been replaced and looked OK. However he did not say anything about being able to adjust the pedal. Is it possible to adjust the pedal? If so, how would I do that?

He also mentioned that the synchros seem OK. He thought they were going bad when I described the problem to him but he changed his mind when he drove it.
 

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However he did not say anything about being able to adjust the pedal. Is it possible to adjust the pedal? If so, how would I do that?
On this site search "clutch pedal free play" or something to that effect.

I cant remember the exact thread.

Good luck:)

Edit: Look at the slave yourself.
Check the end of the pin for wear its a tell tale sign that it hasn't been changed.
 

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Since you just bought the truck, I'd drain the tranny fluid and put GL-4 back in it, just to be sure you don't have GL-5. Amsoil makes a good synthetic.
Pretty common problem w/the clutch and grind. You've gotta be real deliberate when pushing in the clutch, hammer it to the floor. As Gitgasm said, slave cylinder and fluid bleed wouldn't hurt. Double clutch for sure and I'd avoid downshifting from 2 to 1 while you're rolling.
 

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if you upshift a little early, like put it in 4th when you should be in 3rd, then gas it and see what happens. If your rpms jump up real quick and then come back down to grab and then you start to feel pull. Then your clutch is definitely bad and slipping. You know your clutch is slipping when you see the rpms jump up when you gas it and nothing happens and then they come back down and the tranny finally grabs. Hope you understood what I said. Your clutch definitely sounds like it might be on the last leg. Especially if the clutch pedal is engaging really high. You can also check to see how your clutch is just by how easy the truck stalls. Some clutches get so worn out that you can let the clutch go all the way out and the truck wont even stall. Some people wont even realize it. With a good clutch the pedal will grab just a little off the floor and if you let it all the way out to stall it, the truck will jump forward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
if you upshift a little early, like put it in 4th when you should be in 3rd, then gas it and see what happens. If your rpms jump up real quick and then come back down to grab and then you start to feel pull. Then your clutch is definitely bad and slipping. You know your clutch is slipping when you see the rpms jump up when you gas it and nothing happens and then they come back down and the tranny finally grabs.
I went from 2nd to 4th several times and every time the RPMs dropped to about 2k and slowly went up as I gave it more gas. Based on this test alone it seems like the clutch is OK.

You can also check to see how your clutch is just by how easy the truck stalls. Some clutches get so worn out that you can let the clutch go all the way out and the truck wont even stall. Some people wont even realize it. With a good clutch the pedal will grab just a little off the floor and if you let it all the way out to stall it, the truck will jump forward.
If I let the pedal out slow enough the truck does not stall. If I "pop" the clutch it does stall. Not sure what this means??
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This truck seems to run hot at freeway speeds (70-75mph). Could this be an effect of a clutch starting to go bad? At 75mph the RPMs are at about 3500. When I turn the A/C off it will start to run at a normal temp. Keep in mind I live in Phoenix, AZ and it was in the 110 degree range this weekend when it was running warm at freeway speeds.
 

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This truck seems to run hot at freeway speeds (70-75mph). Could this be an effect of a clutch starting to go bad? At 75mph the RPMs are at about 3500. When I turn the A/C off it will start to run at a normal temp. Keep in mind I live in Phoenix, AZ and it was in the 110 degree range this weekend when it was running warm at freeway speeds.
I typically rev about 3400 going 75. My clutch is pretty worn, but isn't slipping once I get going.
 

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As I mentioned on another post about overheating, try waterwetter, it should cool your temps several degrees.
 

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As I mentioned on another post about overheating, try waterwetter, it should cool your temps several degrees.
+1,

You can't go wrong with Redline products

:noworries:

@atforest: Any progress?

Hopefully you can get your rig running righteous soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@atforest: Any progress?

Hopefully you can get your rig running righteous soon.
Well, I put this on hold for a while, but in the last week or two is has gotten worse. I am almost positive it is either the master or the slave cylinder.

Should I change them both out or replace one and then the other if I still have problems? Also, I went to 2 parts stores here in Phoenix and I cannot find a slave cylinder. What is the online dealer that a lot of folks have used on this site?
 

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Since you just bought the truck, I'd drain the tranny fluid and put GL-4 back in it, just to be sure you don't have GL-5. Amsoil makes a good synthetic.
Pretty common problem w/the clutch and grind. You've gotta be real deliberate when pushing in the clutch, hammer it to the floor. As Gitgasm said, slave cylinder and fluid bleed wouldn't hurt. Double clutch for sure and I'd avoid downshifting from 2 to 1 while you're rolling.

This, GL5 will eat away at the synchros causeing weird problems. Over fill by a half quart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I finally replaced my clutch master and slave cylinder this morning, replaced the fluid, and bled the whole system. I have not put a lot of miles on it since then, but what a difference. The truck shifts a LOT better and so far no grinding between 2nd and 3rd gear.

The only problem left is that sometimes the pedal will not return all the way. I have to hook my toe behind and give it a nudge before the return spring will bring it all the way back. I am going to drive it for a few days and bleed again. If that does not fix it then I guess I will be replacing the clutch return spring next.

As an added bonus my cruise control works now!
 

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I have to hook my toe behind and give it a nudge before the return spring will bring it all the way back.
Did you adjust the pin side of the new master to match the replaced one(thread length)?
Yes bleed again, and make sure the line is nice and tight on that master and bleeder valve on the slave when you are done.

Aren't those bolts on the firewall for the master a pain?
Flexible extension and tape FTW:laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Did you adjust the pin side of the new master to match the replaced one(thread length)?
No, I did not, and I could not pop it loose from the pedal once installed to change it. Like you said the bolts on the firewall were a pain so I did not want to take it out to adjust the length.
 

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You should be able to back this bolt off enough to free it then all you have to do is spin it.


 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Thanks. I was looking at that wondering if that would leave just enough room to get it out and adjust it. I gave it a shot but I could not figure out how to unplug the CC sensors so I just left it for now. I will let y'all know how that works out when I get to it.
 
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