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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm finally doing the shocks because I'm hauling a full trailer four hundred miles this weekend. Almost finished, and then ...

The front shock absorber is bolted to the lower control arm via a large nut welded to the arm. The bolt is torqued to 90 ft-lb. I was nearly there when it suddenly easier. I backed out to discover the threads in the lower control arm are stripped. How does that even happen?

Obviously a replacement lower control arm is needed, and that's a lot of work there literally isn't time for. Can a short term solution be found in tightening it as far as it will go and just welding the bolt to the arm? That assembly can be discarded later, after the trip, and the job done right. One question is, can a Grade 8 bolt be welded to? (I just don't know.)

Thanks.
 

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Sorry. Didn’t read well before I posted.

I would trust it to run it back in and weld the bolt to the nut. But not for a long trip or anything strenuous. Only until I could get the new control arm.

Another short term solution would be to grind the nut off the plate, and just use a new grade 10.9 (metric grade 8 term) nut and bolt. I see no reason it must be welded to the plate beyond ease of assembly at factory.
 

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Drill it out to 1/2” diameter. Use a 1/2” grade 8 bolt, washer and nylock nut.
 

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Your right. Did not think about that.
 

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Drill larger and use a solid threaded insert to then use original size hardware that will fit through the shock absorber hole. I like solid threaded inserts way better than heli-coils; many solid threaded inserts can be installed with normal hand tools, not heli-coils.
 

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Maybe get a longer length bolt at OEM diameter, drill out the threads in the stripped nut. Then tighten with a new matching nut, while sandwiching the stripped nut in between?

Not saying it is a proper repair or advise doing so, just throwing out another idea that you may be able to live with.

As for welding, I'm not sure, but I'm not so sure you need Grade 8 and maybe something "weldable" could be
used & welded as your temporary fix? Maybe even the original stripped nut and bolt?

Oh, I have not "seen this before"
Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No need to remove the original welded-on nut. I drilled out any remaining threads with a 15/32 carbide bit, inserted a longer 12mm bolt, added a 12mm nut on the other side, all Grade 8 with split lock washers, and torqued it to 93 ft-lbs. I think it should hold, I don't know why it wouldn't. Thanks, all.
 

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Just want to mention something, was the upper nut still attached? What I have experienced is the bolt is supposed to be tightened under no load, meaning that u out the bottom bolt in first before compressing shock in the upper bracket. Just thought of mention cause I've learned this the hard way. If it was under no load then disregard my comment.
 
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