Nissan Frontier Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
I know there are probably many post and threads about this issue, I’ve read most of them but can’t seem to find consensus.

The details:
06’ Fronty, SPC uca’s, coil buckets ground (no contact at full drop) 2” spacer over coilover, Billstein 5100 at lowest setting’ new inner and outer tie rods, new lca’s, upgraded brakes and lines.

With the tire off and jacked to full compression the bump stop does not make contact.
With the tire off at full droop nothing touches. (Which probably means the shocks are the stops)

The issue:
Pulling into raised parking lots or going over dips in the road there is a very load unsettling noise. I believe the noise is mostly coming from the drivers side. The suspension never made this kinda noise before. I’ve hit the same bumps and dips for years and never heard anything like this before. CBC would actually be better than this racket.

Please help! Before I throw even more money at this never ending front end noise. Thanks
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Frontier SV crew cab, short bed, 6 speed manual transmission, Value Truck Package
Joined
·
828 Posts
Hello all,
I know there are probably many post and threads about this issue, I’ve read most of them but can’t seem to find consensus.

The details:
06’ Fronty, SPC uca’s, coil buckets ground (no contact at full drop) 2” spacer over coilover, Billstein 5100 at lowest setting’ new inner and outer tie rods, new lca’s, upgraded brakes and lines.

With the tire off and jacked to full compression the bump stop does not make contact.
With the tire off at full droop nothing touches. (Which probably means the shocks are the stops)

The issue:
Pulling into raised parking lots or going over dips in the road there is a very load unsettling noise. I believe the noise is mostly coming from the drivers side. The suspension never made this kinda noise before. I’ve hit the same bumps and dips for years and never heard anything like this before. CBC would actually be better than this racket.

Please help! Before I throw even more money at this never ending front end noise. Thanks
Have you double checked that everything is torqued to spec? There's the upper nut on top of the UCA holding the ball joint, the castle nut underneath, the two bolts holding the UCA to the truck, the upper and lower shock bolts, etc.

Maybe lift the truck, grab both sides of the tire, and twist back and forth. Then grab top and bottom and twist up and down. (Like you're checking for worn ball joints).

Also if you have a go-pro, try mounting it so you can record the suspension as you drive to see if anything looks out of place.

I just installed SPC uca's, Radflo coilovers, camber bolts, and trimmed the coil buckets. I'm not getting any noise out of mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
966 Posts
It may be that the 5100s weren’t assembled / installed correctly. Seems to be fairly common.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RikRong

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
It could be a number of things. When taking off the lower control arms were the bolts seized in the sleeve? Did you hammer on the bolts like crazy to get them out? If so the mount for the LCA may have spread apart. The new LCA will move in the mount even when being torqued proper and make a clunk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you double checked that everything is torqued to spec? There's the upper nut on top of the UCA holding the ball joint, the castle nut underneath, the two bolts holding the UCA to the truck, the upper and lower shock bolts, etc.

Maybe lift the truck, grab both sides of the tire, and twist back and forth. Then grab top and bottom and twist up and down. (Like you're checking for worn ball joints).

Also if you have a go-pro, try mounting it so you can record the suspension as you drive to see if anything looks out of place.

I just installed SPC uca's, Radflo coilovers, camber bolts, and trimmed the coil buckets. I'm not getting any noise out of mine.
Nothing appears loose, and everything under the front end has recently been replaced. Thank you for the reply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It may be that the 5100s weren’t assembled / installed correctly. Seems to be fairly common.
The 5100 have been in there a while and never made any noise. So I am ruling those out. Thanks for the reply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It could be a number of things. When taking off the lower control arms were the bolts seized in the sleeve? Did you hammer on the bolts like crazy to get them out? If so the mount for the LCA may have spread apart. The new LCA will move in the mount even when being torqued proper and make a clunk.
the LCA’s are moog and I replaced them a year or so ago. Nothing made noise in the front end until the spc ucas went in. I’ve double checked tightness and contact. Everything checks out. Thanks for the reply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
After looking at the truck today the only thing I see is that the drivers side sway bar bushing is a little more deteriorated than the passenger, but there both like 2 years old. Would getting adjustable swaybar links be better for suspension travel? How about upgrading bump stops on the lca? Is that something that could soften impacts from bottom out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,868 Posts
a 2" spacer on top of the longer 5100 is going to drop out the suspension pretty low. Jack up the front of the truck to the front wheels are in the air. See if the UCA are touching anything. Rotate the wheels and see if the CV joint binds. At most you can do about 1" spacer on top of 5100.

You you did not undo the springs for the 5100 this go around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
a 2" spacer on top of the longer 5100 is going to drop out the suspension pretty low. Jack up the front of the truck to the front wheels are in the air. See if the UCA are touching anything. Rotate the wheels and see if the CV joint binds. At most you can do about 1" spacer on top of 5100.

You you did not undo the springs for the 5100 this go around.
I didn’t touch the springs or 5100’s with this recent work. I did read the 5100 right up and the correct washers and bushings are all there. At full droop the uca’s and the upper ball joint have 1/4 inch clearance.

Today I removed the swaybar and links and it wasn’t that. Put a wrench on every bolt, everything is tight. Drove in and out of my driveway a half dozen times at like 7mph and every time the suspension moves quickly in either direction it makes a metal on metal sound. It’s also on both sides I’ve figured out. It sounds bad. Almost feels like somethings gonna come through the firewall. I don’t know if it’s possibly related to the alignment I just got or what it could be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,868 Posts
Jack up the front end and watch the suspension drop out. Look for contact points at full drop. Spin the wheels at full drop. I have a feeling it is CV joint related.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
I had the same thing going on **** canned the strut spacers trying to correct my alignment, and fixed my clunk at the same time.
I think the moog ball joints may have been over traveling and binding up when the suspension extended fully.
Same as you, I didnt have the problem til I installed the upper arms.
I have the moog lowers, spc uppers, bilstein 5100 with Nismo springs, and strut spacer. All my stuff is new including end links and tie rods, so know that wasn't the cause.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had the same thing going on **** canned the strut spacers trying to correct my alignment, and fixed my clunk at the same time.
I think the moog ball joints may have been over traveling and binding up when the suspension extended fully.
Same as you, I didnt have the problem til I installed the upper arms.
I have the moog lowers, spc uppers, bilstein 5100 with Nismo springs, and strut spacer. All my stuff is new including end links and tie rods, so know that wasn't the cause.
Interesting! It’s not even that the suspension travels very far before the noise is heard. Super frustrating. So after you got rid of the spacers the noise went away? What did you do to get the lift back?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Jack up the front end and watch the suspension drop out. Look for contact points at full drop. Spin the wheels at full drop. I have a feeling it is CV joint related.
Checked that too. I brought the truck to a local shop for a diagnostic. I was under it all day in 113F with no avail. Let’s see what they say tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Mine was so bad I would back up the truck to come out of the drive way, and the dip between concrete and asphalt was enough to make it clack. Turning left or right in and out it would do it.
One other thing I thought about though was the end links contacting the struts, because as suspension drops their natural arc moves them closer.
I'm running 275/55-20 tires and with the stiffer first production nismo springs (my truck is 2wd)and the strut on the second groove I clear OK.
With the adjustable cam bolts and spc ball joints you can set the caster higher to pull the wheel forward in the wheel well which helps too.
Im installing new tires and getting the front realigned next week, and I am debating about adding a 1/2"spacer for a little bit of extra clearance on the new tires.
If I need anything else it will be time to break out the grinder or set of lift spindles as the spacers caused me nothing but problems with alignment and ride quality
 

·
Registered
2015 Xterra Pro4X
Joined
·
848 Posts
Post a pic of your suspension angles, we might be able to help see what's going on. Also, with the weight of the truck on the ground, slightly loosen every bolt/nut that you touched and the re-tighten them with the truck on the ground. Something could be binding, if you tightened up everything while the truck was in the air.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update time,
I brought the truck to a shop for a second pair of eyes. They issues they found were two fold. The SPC uca’s are longer than oem which allow for more suspension travel. The result is the drivers side uca was coming in contact with a long bolt that attached the brake line manifold to the fender in the engine bay, and poked through the wheel well. There was also a corresponding one on the passenger side but was making less contact.
Notice the paint scratch on the front of the uca. (which I thought was done during install, nope!)
Hood Automotive exterior Bumper Automotive tire Cookware and bakeware
Hand Camera lens Automotive tire Finger Camera accessory


Partial fix was to cut the bolts down. The other part that needs to be addressed is the strut and shock issue. With the sway bar now removed and the SPC uca’s installed it is apparent that the stock springs and bilstein 5100 are showing their age and can’t cope with the additional travel. I was putting off coilovers, but now I’m in the market.

So new issue: With so many options and companies selling similar products (or the same products with different prices) what would be the best product. I’m looking for 3 inches of lift. Radflo at 2 with 1 spacer, or something else?
Thanks for the help guys. I’ve really appreciated everyone’s input.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Glad you found it! Didn't realize it was at full compression yours was making noise.
That's a lot of travel to get it to hit!
Wondering if the newer cast arms as you have travel further than the ones made from round tubing.?
Mine was making noise as the lower a arm traveled downward, and like you said it sounded as if something was falling apart.
Unless I go with a custom set up I'm done with the spacers. I realigned my front yesterday eve and it's a quite a bit of difference in the feel of the front, way it drives and rides.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top