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Discussion Starter #1
Just looking for a little advice.

I've decided (against my wife's choice, she wants a full size) that the frontier is the best bang for the money on a truck.

Looking to stay at 15-16k max which brings up some 09-13 frontiers, around 80-105k miles.

How is the reliability and long term use of these trucks? I've read about some radiator issues, what years was that cleaned up? Looking to get a 4x4, 4door.. are there certain years that nissan made a longer bed on the 4 door?

Thanks
 

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My '12 Frontier is my first Nissan, all my previous trucks have been GM or Toyota (and one Mazda). I bought this truck because Consumer Reports rated it number 1 for small pickups and because I got a good price on it. It has been dependable only two issues, seat rattle and door lock. Both of those things were fixed under warranty. No other problems. I do my own basic maintenance, oil changes etc, and it is fairly easy to work on. I would buy it again.
 

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I’m on my fifth Frontier, every one of them has been a good experience, repairs have been infrequent and not any big failures.

Clint
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good to hear, ill look for a 2011+ I want it as a 3rd vehicle, since it'd be the worst on fuel out of all my cars... but I may sell my buick regal (daily) to have a few grand to put down and bump up to around 17k budget. I found a 2014 with 57k miles for 16900. Just want exhaust, maybe wheels, 2.5" lift, 32's or 33's.
 

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Good to hear, ill look for a 2011+ I want it as a 3rd vehicle, since it'd be the worst on fuel out of all my cars... but I may sell my buick regal (daily) to have a few grand to put down and bump up to around 17k budget. I found a 2014 with 57k miles for 16900. Just want exhaust, maybe wheels, 2.5" lift, 32's or 33's.
If you skip all the money on goodies you may buy up to an even newer truck. If you’re borrowing money why not get more peace of mind?
 

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I was in your same spot last year. Ended up getting a 2010 Pro 4x crew cab, 80k miles, little dinged,dented for 16k. Asking price was 18. It had the radiator replaced and seperate transmission cooler installed. It has been a great truck 10,000 miles later. Occasionally I wish my bed was bigger than 5' but having the extra room in my garage and parking easier is great. I would def consider spending a little more to get a 2011 + just to be totally certain the transmission problem is out of the picture.

-Kurt
2010 P4X
 

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There are long bed (6 foot) crew cabs out there, but they are relatively rare compared to the short bed models. And hard to find a used one, since the listings often aren't accurate or don't mention bed length.
I'll second this. It was a huge pain to find my crew cab long wheelbase, of the dozens locally listed on Autotrader and similar websites I found literally three long wheelbase Frontiers. Prior to that I was even being somewhat brand-agnostic, I looked for the Canyon/Colorado twins in the same crew cab long bed configuration and found zero, apparently they're only available special order, and the Toyotas were stupid money with a lot of miles. When you look, "LWB" and 139 inch wheelbase are the terms to help. Also apparently up to a certain point you can put in the VIN at a Nissan web page and pull up the original window sticker, and they long wheelbase trucks say it there, so you can check no-image listings that have a VIN to see what bed/wheelbase. Just Google "nissan vin lookup" and you'll find what you need.

Now I will say this much as a negative, the turning radius on the CC LWB is pretty bad. Like my '82 Dodge D350 crew cab turns tighter. The various Dodge Maxivans I drove at work over the years turn tighter. I strongly advise you to test-drive one before committing, because coming from a king-cab Hardbody it was quite a shock. Still did it though.
 

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The turning radius is comically poor. But it is such a small part of driving.

Think it is 50% due to the steering wheel ratio and low input power steering. I like the less dominant powers steering. Let’s you know where tour tires are. This ratio may be only a perception but it feels like I’m doing 2 more revolutions to hit max steer.
The other 50% is the terrible turning radius.

Everyday I spin a u turn at the end of my quiet street in my F150 and it’s never a problem. With the frontier I “touch” 2 curbs. 1 on a good day lol.

This is a well known con of the frontier. I was well aware of it going in.

Also trick for the LWB or not. You’ll notice the gas cap door doesn’t interfere with the fender flare on a long box.


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My 2012 SV is at 88,000 miles. I’ve only had to replace the radiator cap and a hose clamp. I’m still using my original factory brake pads.

Complaints are as follows: my terminals get really corroded, paint seems to chip easily, and my windshield gets rock chips with ease. Baking soda and water clean up the terminals pretty easily and the latter two issues probably are a result of the crappy rural highways I have to use down here. I get my vehicle serviced at a really awesome dealership in Del Rio.

All and all I’ve been really satisfied with my truck. It’s done all I’ve asked with minimal mechanical problems. I recommend them to anyone that needs a midsized truck; you honestly can’t beat the value of these trucks and the prices are always way cheaper than competitors. Good luck!
 

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Agreed on the turning radius. I think aircraft carriers turn tighter than these trucks...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the input guys.

Another question on lifts.... I've been reading and seem to get dif. opinions from people... As there are a lot of dif. ways to go about lifting these trucks. I'll do mild off roading, nothing too crazy. Was going to get the RC 2.5" lift and do 33's but ive read that the UCA's wont work, or rub on bumps? Aftermarket UCA's seem pricey... is there a economical way to lift and run 33's and still keep street manners along with being off road capable?

Only off road ive had was my 01 cherokee XJ, i just did a 3.5" RC lift, 32's and took off the sway bars, did great offroad.
 

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JeniorNV has a pretty comprehensive thread on lifts, suspension, etc. I've read through it and in-short there are multiple ways to lift the front of the truck with different parts costs, labor time, and final result, including but not limited to spacers, longer coils, and partial to whole control arm swaps, even sourcing parts from other models. I suggest you give that thread a once-over.

The back is a lot easier. Either blocks to space the axle further from the springs, longer rear shackles, or some change to the springs like more arch or more leaves.

I have personally made no plans to change my suspension on my CC LWB even though it would probably benefit from it more than a SWB truck would, until I offroad the truck and get a feel for its capabilities I wouldn't know what I'd want to change.
 

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Mine been great, One CEL when new, no other issues in 5yrs/45Kmi.. Would buy again.. My lift(see sig) was fairly inexpensive minus the UCAs.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
JeniorNV has a pretty comprehensive thread on lifts, suspension, etc. I've read through it and in-short there are multiple ways to lift the front of the truck with different parts costs, labor time, and final result, including but not limited to spacers, longer coils, and partial to whole control arm swaps, even sourcing parts from other models. I suggest you give that thread a once-over.

The back is a lot easier. Either blocks to space the axle further from the springs, longer rear shackles, or some change to the springs like more arch or more leaves.

I have personally made no plans to change my suspension on my CC LWB even though it would probably benefit from it more than a SWB truck would, until I offroad the truck and get a feel for its capabilities I wouldn't know what I'd want to change.
Will factory titan UCA bolt right up to a frontier, is that how im understanding this?
 

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Complaints are as follows: my terminals get really corrode
Do you use any terminal corrosion prevention spray?

I noticed there was a good amount of corrosion on mine...I cleaned it up and sprayed with corrosion protection and have been monitoring it about once a week. It's still looking good, but only time will tell.
 

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I’ve used the stuff you can buy at O’reilly’s. It’s like red spray paint; it works pretty well for awhile but the corrosion comes back. I’ve also used wheel bearing grease. It works about the same and it is way cheaper for the amount of product you get.
 

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I’ve replaced my spacers with Bilstein 5100 leveling shocks. The height of the lift is the same on the front but the ride seems way smoother. That being said, my right front OEM strut was starting to wear out though.

I’m running 32’s but looks like I could cram some 33’s in there.

Just another lift option for you to consider.
 

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Will factory titan UCA bolt right up to a frontier, is that how im understanding this?
That is my understanding, though through reading and watching swap videos, not through trying it myself.

In a nutshell the 2005-2018 Frontier and Xterra, 2005-2012 Pathfinder, the Titan, Armada, and Infiniti QX56 share a chassis called "F-Alpha". Not all aspects of all vehicle are the same as the others but the key part is the frame and the front suspension mounting points. The Titan parts bolt to the Frontier and Xterra (and presumably Pathfinder) because the mounts are the same. It's also not unheard of to put the V8 into the Frontier because the frames there are the same too, and the Pathfinder even got that motor from the factory.

It helps that they've made this truck for fourteen model years now with only a mild change to the header panel and grille for 2009, it has meant that the bugs are well worked-out of the platform by now and that there's a lot of potential for repair parts, and in the case of the bigger trucks/SUVs, durable factory parts to be used as upgrades.
 
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