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Discussion Starter #21

Seems crazy easy but again, might be a stupid question but I am asking, pinching off the lines to avoid fluid everywhere, yeah? Easiest way to pinch them off?
 

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Vice grips very little pressure if you have them, maybe put a rag between hose and vice grips.. but again it takes very little pressure to close it off. You’ll be surprised how little you’ll lose.. drops!

So basically the hose coming from bottom of radiator you can do as he did or just cap them off completely, both ends of rad. It’s mainly just to keep dirt out and keep from blowing what fluid is in there from getting all over. Some people with air blow out the remaining fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Okay buy the brake hose clamps or go with the vise grips? Already have vise grips.

So, clamp line 1, loosen hose, take off and don't let it get dirty. Repeat for line 2 and just swap and then tighten each connector clamp (on each hose), take off pinch clamp, done. Right?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Someone please explain why if swapping the hoses are so easy and many folks are saying this will work to correct the issue so I don't have to worry about my transmission being screwed, why in the world would I go through the trouble of installing a new radiator?
 

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Someone please explain why if swapping the hoses are so easy and many folks are saying this will work to correct the issue so I don't have to worry about my transmission being screwed, why in the world would I go through the trouble of installing a new radiator?
By bypassing the radiator's integral trans cooler, as opposed to replacing the radiator and utilizing the radiator's cooler, you are losing some cooling efficiency, but, more importantly, you are losing the ability of the radiator's cooler to warm the trans fluid. Transmission fluid should be a minimum operating temperature of 150 degrees F. and, ideally, should normally operate in the 175-200 degree F. range. The radiator's cooler gets the ATF up to the ideal operating temperature and maintains it there. If you run the ATF through the auxiliary trans cooler, which is air to liquid cooler and not as efficient as a liquid to liquid cooler like that inside the radiator, it can only cool the trans fluid. The majority of those that have actually monitored their trans fluid temperatures and have bypassed the radiator's cooler at TheNissanPath.com (R51 Pathfinders rather than D40 Frontiers, if that matters to you, but with same engine and trans) have seen temperatures averaging around 155-165 degrees F. While it's warm enough to not cause damage to the transmission, it's still not at the ideal temperature. Now, if the vehicle is used for heavy towing, driving on long, steep, inclines, such as in the mountains or in areas of extreme cold or heat...or any combination of those things...it would be good to have that extra cooling capacity (or, the warming ability, for cold weather) of the trans cooler inside of the radiator. Overall, it has been a reliable design over the years, but Calsonic just had a bad run of radiators that had issues with the cooler seal failing inside the lower radiator tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
By bypassing the radiator's integral trans cooler, as opposed to replacing the radiator and utilizing the radiator's cooler, you are losing some cooling efficiency, but, more importantly, you are losing the ability of the radiator's cooler to warm the trans fluid. Transmission fluid should be a minimum operating temperature of 150 degrees F. and, ideally, should normally operate in the 175-200 degree F. range. The radiator's cooler gets the ATF up to the ideal operating temperature and maintains it there. If you run the ATF through the auxiliary trans cooler, which is air to liquid cooler and not as efficient as a liquid to liquid cooler like that inside the radiator, it can only cool the trans fluid. The majority of those that have actually monitored their trans fluid temperatures and have bypassed the radiator's cooler at TheNissanPath.com (R51 Pathfinders rather than D40 Frontiers, if that matters to you, but with same engine and trans) have seen temperatures averaging around 155-165 degrees F. While it's warm enough to not cause damage to the transmission, it's still not at the ideal temperature. Now, if the vehicle is used for heavy towing, driving on long, steep, inclines, such as in the mountains or in areas of extreme cold or heat...or any combination of those things...it would be good to have that extra cooling capacity (or, the warming ability, for cold weather) of the trans cooler inside of the radiator. Overall, it has been a reliable design over the years, but Calsonic just had a bad run of radiators that had issues with the cooler seal failing inside the lower radiator tank.
I don't really tow anything and I am generally in WNC, SC and GA. SC gets crazy hot in the summer but nothing every too cold. You still think it is worth all the extra work to put in a new radiator?
 

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I don't really tow anything and I am generally in WNC, SC and GA. SC gets crazy hot in the summer but nothing every too cold. You still think it is worth all the extra work to put in a new radiator?
On this topic you’re going to get a 50/50 response and I trust smj’s responses. But I’ve read so many articles on this .. that I trust the bypass and have done it with two of mine but I do not tow anything to amount to much. At least this will give you time to think about it and be safe in the meantime.

The very cold weather would be my only worry.. like 0 - -digits and that would be if it was a normal every day during cold seasons.
 

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My brother and I both had the trans go bad in our pathfinders, warranty replaced the trans and radiator and for the next 5 years until trade in it was perfect. Don’t try to reinvent the wheel, replace the radiator, put it in as it’s supposed to be and all will be fine. These forums are very helpful, there are some great people posting but at times things take on a life of their own and makes things worse. Go to your local dealer, give them the vin# and have them look up the service and warranty history.

Clint
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I feel a bit foolish, trusted someone to tell me the transmission fluid was red and they said it was bright red. Ahh, no. After switching out the lines, it looks like brand new oil you would put in. I then smelled the fluid on the dipstick, smells fine. I am reading this was the color of the matic J. Is that correct? That means this is old AF fluid right? Wise to drain and put in new, yes? What is recommended? (I know I used to have a manual camaro that shifted like dog doo and I put in Royal Purple and it shifted amazingly better.)
 

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My truck is a 2007.
I read just recently that the 2005-2007'had smaller brakes.Not sure if this is true.
 
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