I would think it could take a fair amount of weight upright but personally lay everything flat with my gate down and ratchet straps securing the load in.
The hinges are the weak link in the equation.
Load onto tailgate while closed?
Does anyone know the load limit on the tailgate while it is closed (up)? Has anyone else had issues with the tailgate buckling from carrying sheets of plywood, etc. overhanging the tailgate while it is up?
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The hinges are the weak link in the equation.
I've carried six 6x6x8's on a closed tailgate with no problems other than the plastic on top was marred.
ive had 10sheets of 3/4" ply resting on the tailgate with no problems
I wouldn't put much weight on the tailgate either up or down. Best to transport heavy stuff on a rack of some sort to protect your truck, and the load. Even going over a speed bump can make quite a difference in the "bounce" weight of your load.
We have a very very solid tailgate. It will handle the load fine, its just the hinges which are kind of weak. But while its latched the latches take most of the load
Okay, well 15 sheets of 3/8" OSB and 6 sheets of drywall buckled my tailgate, while up, and the welds near the latch pins on the box are separated. Total load weight was 924 pounds... I'll take pics and post tomorrow.We have a very very solid tailgate. It will handle the load fine, its just the hinges which are kind of weak. But while its latched the latches take most of the load
Ouch...did you go over any bumps that could have caused the weight to bounce up and then hit your tailgate all at once?
Okay, well 15 sheets of 3/8" OSB and 6 sheets of drywall buckled my tailgate, while up, and the welds near the latch pins on the box are separated. Total load weight was 924 pounds... I'll take pics and post tomorrow.
YIKES! Sorry to hear that. Hopefully, your post will save a few other though. I'm not familiar with the 2nd gen bed, but I know my 1st gen doesn't have 4' between the wheel wells. A while back I was picking up a MG-TD body tub for a friend and I made some elongated "T"s that would fit from one side of the bed to the other in the pockets in the bed liner just above the wheel wells to support the body. Turns out the body fit into the bed better w/o the T's, but I've used them since on at least a dozen sheets of 5/8" OSB w/o any problems.
Your mention of drywall and buckling reminds me of a recent event in this area. A building under construction collapsed and they determined that it was caused by piling the drywall for the job in one location. It was too much weight for the floor and when it took the floor out the walls came with it, then the roof. It was a mess. Drywall is some heavy stuff.
Good Luck. I hope the fix isn't too expensive.
Not that I noticed - I was takining it pretty slow and it didn't feel much different when I was driving.Ouch...did you go over any bumps that could have caused the weight to bounce up and then hit your tailgate all at once?
There isn't 4' between the wheel wells; I had the sheet resting on top of the wheel wells at one end and on top of the tailgate at the other end, with three feet overhanging the back of the truck. I attribute much of this matter to the short (5') box.YIKES! Sorry to hear that. Hopefully, your post will save a few other though. I'm not familiar with the 2nd gen bed, but I know my 1st gen doesn't have 4' between the wheel wells. A while back I was picking up a MG-TD body tub for a friend and I made some elongated "T"s that would fit from one side of the bed to the other in the pockets in the bed liner just above the wheel wells to support the body. Turns out the body fit into the bed better w/o the T's, but I've used them since on at least a dozen sheets of 5/8" OSB w/o any problems.
Your mention of drywall and buckling reminds me of a recent event in this area. A building under construction collapsed and they determined that it was caused by piling the drywall for the job in one location. It was too much weight for the floor and when it took the floor out the walls came with it, then the roof. It was a mess. Drywall is some heavy stuff.
Good Luck. I hope the fix isn't too expensive.
The bodyshop estimate came in today at $3,200... Luckily, my comprehensive insurance is going to cover it, so all I'll have to pay is the $250 deductible and my rates won't be affected.
I should have just had the materials delivered, but I thought that was against the point of having a truck!I rest my case.
The second gen beds you'll notice have slots to insert some 2x6s across the bed (can't recall cut length) to accommodate laying plywood, drywall etc. over the wheel wells. You can slide it onto there not have to rest the load on the tailgate.
Here's a thread with some info:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f10/husky-lined-2x6s-16524/
Here's a thread with some info:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f10/husky-lined-2x6s-16524/
My dad and I have a ladder style deal....its (2) 2x8x10's running vertically with ends and middle supports. Looks like a book case. Anyway, I have carried over 1400lbs of drywall/OSB/Concrete Siding that way multiple times (we built an addition on our cabin. 12 foot sheets too....)
I guess I didnt realize you were talking about so much load...
Of course we only get KC's for that very reason
I guess I didnt realize you were talking about so much load...
Of course we only get KC's for that very reason
Yeah, I guess I just wanted it all with the CC Nismo - high end package, lots of interior room for the family and I thought good truck functionality. I wish I would have known about the support slots in the box earlier. I went through the whole owners manual tonight and there was no mention of these slots. That said, once you know they are there, they are plain as day. Live and learn, I guess!My dad and I have a ladder style deal....its (2) 2x8x10's running vertically with ends and middle supports. Looks like a book case. Anyway, I have carried over 1400lbs of drywall/OSB/Concrete Siding that way multiple times (we built an addition on our cabin. 12 foot sheets too....)
I guess I didnt realize you were talking about so much load...
Of course we only get KC's for that very reason
Here are the pics of the damage
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Are you getting a new bed and tailgate or are they just repairing it? If it is new and they give you another utilitrack, make sure you take the old one too.
I have a DCT 16 foot car trailer and a lightweight 5'X8' utility trailer to haul longer items. The car trailer was $1600 new and the utility trailer was $900. I think you can get the small trailers at Lowe's, Home Depot, Menards or most home improvement stores.
Nah, they are going to break the welds on the two panel strips that are located near the end of the box, make the adjustment (not much, about 1/16") to the box and re-weld. This is the expensive part and it also means that they will need to reapply the bedliner that will be affected by this procedure. Because Nissan doesn't seem to have spray-in bedliner available for reapplications like this, they will likely have to outsource this work to another spray-in liner company. The tailgate will be replaced and the side of the truck where a bungee snapped over and dented will also be repaired and refinished.Are you getting a new bed and tailgate or are they just repairing it? If it is new and they give you another utilitrack, make sure you take the old one too.
This is a great suggestion as well and I appreciate it, but I live on a small city lot and don't have the room to store a trailer. It's a good idea if I get a bigger place some time.I have a DCT 16 foot car trailer and a lightweight 5'X8' utility trailer to haul longer items. The car trailer was $1600 new and the utility trailer was $900. I think you can get the small trailers at Lowe's, Home Depot, Menards or most home improvement stores.
$3200 is a HUGE price considering the damage and what they are giong to do.....
Meh, it could cost $10,000 and I wouldn't care because insurance is covering it...:noworries:$3200 is a HUGE price considering the damage and what they are giong to do.....
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