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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I always said I wouldn't lift my Truck, not a big fan of it and I know it could do damage to some components . that said a simple leveling kit that raises just the front to match the rear, would this be putting extra strain on the controls? Sway bar, front diff and such?

I found this kit for less than 100 bucks

2.5in Leveling Strut Extensions Lift Kit for 05-17 Nissan Frontier / Xterra [865] | Rough Country Suspension Systems®

EDIT** Just looking to match the front with the rear, I think 2.5" is too much, 1.5" ?
 

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You will more than likely get coil bucket contact.
I would look for spacers with less lift. 1”-1.5”.
 

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Get the prg 1.5" and call it a day. They cost a little more than the generic 2.5" spacers but they also cause less head ache. It will pretty much level out the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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Bingo, this is what I'm looking for, nothing too crazy and just doing the front.

PRG 1.5? I assume this can be done in my garage like normal spacers?

This is what I want right? PRG Products 2005-2016 Nissan Frontier 1.5" Leveling Kit - Fits 2wd & 4x4 Models
Yep. Cool never seen prgs products on someone else website before
PRG Products

pretty easy to do. Might need to pop the upper ball joint from the knuckle. I would recommend using this tool.

https://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-62708.html

Can barrow from O Reilys as well
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ols-evertough-pitman-arm-puller/67025/4700243
 

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If you are looking at replacing your shocks anytime soon, another option is adjustable Bilstein 5100s.


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I put in the rancho pre loaded struts to raise my truck a little - lifted about 2 inches after they settled and greatly improved the ride, install is a breeze too. price was very reasonable and you get new coils and shocks too. they are ride adjustable though i think that is a bit of a gimmick.. i set them up on a harder setting when they were first installed and left them since. probably have 2 years on them now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Another vote for Bilstein 5100. It can also improve handling and ride quality of your rig.
yep, these are the better version for whats in the pro-4x right?

I do plan on adding these one day, my truck has 1600 miles on it right now though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
WAit, am I reading this wrong? If I get the 5100's I don't need the PRG lift spacer? Is this correct?
 

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WAit, am I reading this wrong? If I get the 5100's I don't need the PRG lift spacer? Is this correct?


Correct. The 5100s are adjustable. You can keep the stock spring. The spring seat has adjustable heights. Each notch shortens the spring, raising the truck, but also lowering ride comfort.

I’ve got mine set on the full 2”. It settled out at around 1 3/4”. Then I have 1.5” blocks on rear. At that full maxed out height it does ride hard, but I don’t mind. I’ve still got a slight rake but no where near factory.

So to level you are looking at setting the 5100s to around 1”. And leave rear alone height wise. Really won’t affect ride that much. There also is no issue of coil bucket contact. I got mine from Nisstec.

There are plenty of pics on here with people that used the 5100s for exactly what you want.


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Discussion Starter #12
ok thanks, and I assume this is the better route? I don't want to lose comfort though, although I already feel the front is a little too "soft" anyway.

plus having 5100's on all 4 corners should help a little anyway, no?
 

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Bilsteins are a good way to go, the ride isn't as good at 2" but it gets better each step down. I tried them all...
You will need a spring compressor to assemble them and you should read through the threads about how to do it, some of the instructions weren't very clear about reusing the old hardware specifically the top washer.

1" to 1.5" will be level, you need to measure up your truck and decide what you think you'll like.

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Discussion Starter #15
yea think 1.5" will be what I want. gonna wait though, at least a year of owning the truck, I assume Dearlership will void a **** load of warranty items by doing it.
 

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No it won't void anything. They would have to prove that whatever damage occurred was caused by the spacer, ie. worn u-joint or ball joint maybe.... but they cant fabricate a reason of their liking and say no warranty on your blown engine because of your spacer or new adjustable shock..

1.5" on the bilstiens is ok, 2" was not ok for me. I didn't like how harsh it rode, 1.5" wasn't bad just a little more solid/stiff and 1" is great. If I ever get the gumption I may reset it to 1.5" for a better level look (I also have a 1.5" block in the back)
 

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I also went with the Bilstein 5100's on four corners. I set the front to max height. It does ride a bit firmer but doesn't bottom out on every little dip in the road. there are videos on YouTube to explain the disadvantages of spacers. you can also search "Why Bilstein 5100 Series Leveling Shocks are far superior to coilover spacer kits" on google.
 

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Very true, at a glance you would think they do the same thing but they dont. Spacers make the overall length longer and you'll get coil bucket contact, which sucks.... The adjustable Bils dont change in length, they compress the spring a little and make the truck ride higher to achieve lift. You will need spring compressors to do this yourself but you can rent them or buy a set, they're not that expensive. The set I got were pretty beefy, you'd think thats a good thing, but I couldn't get them out once I compressed the coils for the 2" setting and had to take it apart and grind them down enough to slide them out of the compressed springs.
 

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Very true, at a glance you would think they do the same thing but they dont. Spacers make the overall length longer and you'll get coil bucket contact, which sucks....
The distance between the upper control arms and the coil buckets will be the same if you use the Bilsteins or spacers.
How does this reduce coil bucket contact?
 

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I didn't use spring compressors. put a hydraulic jack under lower control arm and lift the truck, loosen the nut off the upper control arm(don't take it off just loosen it a few turns) and while incrementally lowering the jack use a 16oz hammer on the spindle where the upper ball joint connects. it will pop loose. of coarse you have to pull the ABS wiring off the holders and remove brake calipers and take the top nut off the shock and off the upper control arm. then lower the jack and the spring decompresses in a controlled manner and falls out. replace the shock, jack the lower control arm back up, reconnect everything and Bob's your uncle. I've done this twice, the last time I replaced the entire front suspension, good as new.
 
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