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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, one more for you guys. Pictures just kinda show you what it looks like in there. Side mirror controls. You can get it out without taking off the lower panel if you have patience but its so much easier if you remove it. Unscrew the screw to the right of the OBD port, unclip the lower pillar piece and unscrew the screw behind it. Unclip the lower panel. Unclip wiring harness, then the mirror control simply unclips from the panel. The unit itself is held together with clips so it shouldnt be a problem getting this apart. The board has only 2 LEDs. Same steps as before, desolder, resolder, test, reassemble etc. Easy!
 

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lol damn everyone is goin crazy with this LED swapping ****
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The 4wd was a little more complicated. Not technically but mechanically. Im gonna try and explain as best as i can but i did this mod awhile ago and might forget a few things. Ok, remove the tray in the middle of the counsel. Remove the screw exposed after the tray is removed. The dash can just be unclipped after that. Remove the wiring harnesses for ac, passenger airbag light etc. The lower center dash has 2 screws if i remember correctly. Just pull the dash piece forward a bit, unclip the wiring, then unscrew the four screws in the 4wd selector. This one is also held together with clips but be CAREFUL! There are a couple small pieces that you DONT want to lose (like the contact thing with the prongs on it)! There was a spring and ball bearing in the dial assembly so open it slowly and while your working on the board, you might even wanna put that half in a ziploc bag or something. When i did the window controls, the spring and ball bearing went flying all of a sudden and i spent an hour looking for them! The dial should have the spring/ball, and the contact that tells the computer what gear to put the truck in. If you can keep that half in one piece youll save yourself a lot of headaches when reassembling. You can see the LEDs in the pic. Think there was only four. Same old routine, desolder, solder, test the LEDs, reassemble, THEN test the unit itself. Dont hook it up to the truck at first and check if you have any problems putting it in 4hi, 4lo, then back to 2wd. If it works fine hook it up to the truck and test it out again, this time with the truck running. Just take your time with this one and try to remember the placement of all the components.
 

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are u still using the 1206 LEDs for this and the window, mirror controls?
 

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are u still using the 1206 LEDs for this and the window, mirror controls?
yep, same ones...I haven't done the 4wd switch yet since i have to take half the damn dash apart to get to it.

edit for correct info...like 959 said, 3mm's inthe window switches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
are u still using the 1206 LEDs for this and the window, mirror controls?
The window switches use a 3mm LED. You can probably use a 5mm if you shorten the leads.
 

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thanks for the info on the 4wd switch. got it finished up this weekend. now, finally, everything is either blue or white.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)

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what soldering iron and solder are u using? have not started any of mine yet
 

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Got any pics of the components done with the leds? like back in the vehicle? blue if possible:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sorry only did mines in red. Im using this $6 iron! Piece of junk but it got the job done. As for the solder, rosin core. I think Deltaphi did it in blue. Maybe he can post.
 

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yep, i have mine in blue. I will get some pics for you tonight. my digital camera is at home. the iphone is ok for day shots but sux at night.
 

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Okay, i did mine a couple weeks ago and somethings up with my 4wd now... it wont engage according to the dash screen. any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay, i did mine a couple weeks ago and somethings up with my 4wd now... it wont engage according to the dash screen. any ideas?
Was it workin after you finished the swap? Does the dial rotate without any obstructions? If so, then id probably just check the wiring harness connection in the back. If thats still doesnt work, you probably have to take it back apart. Check your soldering and make sure its clean. Check to see if any components came loose. Espicially pay attention to the little pronged contact that runs along the tracks.
 

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I took it apart after the swap to make sure the prongs were lined up with the metal on the back of the switch, and they were... my only guess now would be that they are too far bent down to be in full contact? It's my best guess. And I NEED to get this fixed before the winter, its gonna be a bad one here in Nebraska. :comphead:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That would probably be my next guess too. Does the dial turn normally or does it feel loose or get stuck? Is your soldering touching any tracks?
 
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