[smj999smj]

The knock sensor will not cause a drivability issue. It's only function is to detect engine knock and generate a voltage signal to the ECM, which in turn will retard the ignition timing slightly to try and reduce engine damage. It will not cause a misfire. Under normal conditions, if a "knock" is detected, it will trigger a code in the ECM but will not cause the CEL to turn "on." It will, however, cause the CEL to turn "on" if it has an open or shorted circuit.

On the supercharged engines (VG33ER), a bad or unplugged knock sensor can cause power loss, as the ECM will disable the boost solenoid.

BTW, sorry I didn't get to your earlier posts. It's mentioned earlier in the thread: use a knock sensor and sub-harness for a 95-99 Maxima. But, I'm sure you know that by know!

 

[palerider]

The knock sensor will not cause a drivability issue. It's only function is to detect engine knock and generate a voltage signal to the ECM, which in turn will retard the ignition timing slightly to try and reduce engine damage. It will not cause a misfire. Under normal conditions, if a "knock" is detected, it will trigger a code in the ECM but will not cause the CEL to turn "on." It will, however, cause the CEL to turn "on" if it has an open or shorted circuit.

On the supercharged engines (VG33ER), a bad or unplugged knock sensor can cause power loss, as the ECM will disable the boost solenoid.

BTW, sorry I didn't get to your earlier posts. It's mentioned earlier in the thread: use a knock sensor and sub-harness for a 95-99 Maxima. But, I'm sure you know that by know!

Thanks yes nobody would help here or the FB site I think something else going on I still don't have it hooked up and did replace a purge valve too. But codes still say KC . Was running good then today did same thing as it did when it threw the codes. Died and when started back run like it was water in gas just crazy. Then when inside about 15 minutes told wife it was shot and when I went back it started fine and acted like nothing wrong. LOL I think I'm going just sell it cheep only got 147 on it and I see where others have got 300 out of them , I may take it in to a mechanic to see but with no codes but the KC and purge which I replaced looks like its the end of the road for her, she's been ok but a lot of little things have been acting up and needs a carrier bearing but been running like that for a year or so. as long as you let it ease into 2nd it does just fine, its a automatic trans. I will keep you all posted to this mystery miss. I thought the PV and KC would make it run like crap until I started reading more and found out just what you said. So I just don't know , hate to lose the little truck but just don't know where to start without a code? thanks for the advice.

 

[wal92tt]

OK, here is what I did. Not saying it is better, just that it appears to work equally well and may be cheaper. Two posts up I listed the $33 unit I bought from RockAuto, listed as the proper replacement part for an '01 Frontier. I soldered a 4-inch length of wire to each of the 2 terminals on the sensor, covered them with a little dielectric grease, heat-shrink tubes and waterproofed the whole shebang with blue RTV. Then I attached small connectors to each end of the sensor's wires.

I chased the signal wires for the factory KS along the wiring harness as far as I could reach towards the firewall. In the original draft of the FSM, this section of the engine bay was known as the 'devil's @sshole'. This area is where your dreams, your patience and all the skin from your knuckles goes to die. If any of you are still looking for "Hope and Change", you should probably look back here. The wires you are looking for are in the same section of wiring loom that houses the injector wires for all 3 cylinders on the passenger side. Follow the harness from front of the engine towards the rear and you will see the injector wires emerge from the harness as they pass each injector. After the last injector, the wiring loom is much smaller but it still continues toward the firewall and the 'devil's @sshole. This is the KS signal wire that you want. Carefully cut open this loom and you will find the small, black, rubber 'coax' that others have described.

I clipped it near the firewall, routed it back to where I was going to install the new KS on the intake and crimped two male spade connectors onto its wires. I covered it with some fiberglass heat-braid, connected the wires and cleared the codes. Worked like a charm. Two weeks later and the engine runs smoother and and the KS code has not re-appeared. Thanks to all who paved the way before me!

You way is exactly what I had envisioned this mod to be. There's no reason to buy another harness. Simply do what you did and you're done! Most of us have spare wire and spade ends. I say this but have yet to do this to my wifes truck though. Maybe I'll tackle it this weekend.....
Thanks for the pictures and your write-up!

 

[wal92tt]

Has anyone tried the 30 minute method as shown in the video below?
I know it's on a 1998 Pathfinder, but is it really that different to were it wouldn't work for a 2001 Crew Cab V6 Manual?

 

[smj999smj]

Yes, it would work on an VG33 engine. My only concern would be if that the connector could break instead of the end of the knock sensor, but, I guess you could just get another connector? I might be a little longer than 30-minutes, however, if you don't have a lift to hoist the vehicle and power tools. Might also be tough if you have short, fat arms like me!

 

[Spyke438]

I am also interrested to know if this "30 minutes" hack can be done on the frontier 4x4. I looked at my truck today and I think I would need to remove the front drive shaft and maybe the exhaust for clearence. If anyone as done it, some feedback would be nice. Otherwise, I will probably try it and give some feedback after.

 

[beno5150]

I did that knock sensor move, just like you showed. Thank you for your post ! This is what the internet was ment to be! TY TY TY

 

[Dwest24]

If the transmission is pulled out to replace the rear main seal, can you easily access the knock sensor to replace it when the transmission is out?

 

[Spyke438]

If the transmission is pulled out to replace the rear main seal, can you easily access the knock sensor to replace it when the transmission is out?

Should be easier than in the video in post #544

 

[Dwest24]

Should be easier than in the video in post #544

He didn't replace it in the video he relocated it.

 

[Spyke438]

My bad sorry, you may be able to take it out but I dont think you would be able to place it back. It is in the middle of the engine. A spaner may fit to unbolt it. The screw may not have the clearence to be removed. Best bet is: while you are there, unplug instead of breaking the connection and relocate on top of the engine. You will be able to reroute the harness to not cut anything

 

[NotForSale]

TLTR. Too Long To Read.... I have done a total or 4 knock sensor replacements on the 2.4L KA24de motors... only to be happy i was not doing it on a V6... seen some videos. why do all knock sensors have to be placed in such precarious locations. Def thought about relocating it more than one time.

 

[smj999smj]

You want it in a location that is best for the sensor to detect knock. Where better on a V6 than in the valley, right on top of the engine block? It's just not the most convenient place when you have to replace it.

 

[Dwest24]

Kind of like the #6 plug... lol. Whoever engineered this was not thinking about ease of maintenance.

 

[smj999smj]

Yeah, it's a pain, but at least you can get to it without removing the intake plenum. Once you've done it a dozen times or more it isn't as bad!

 

[Steveie]

Most of the time its the oxygen sensor that cause a knock sensor code. You must make sure the replacement oxygen sensor display the ohm read that the factory recommend. If you substitute a high ohm o2 sensor with a low ohm o2 sensor, it will display dtc 0328. The replacement o2 sensor must maintain the same ohms reading has dealer repair manual recommend.

 

[Steveie]

Another thing about knock sensor code DTC 0327 or 0328. Its puts the ECU ignition timing program(software) parameter in DEFAULT MODE. Where has the ECU ignore the timing recorded by the distributor and operate on cylinder #1 TDC position. Once this DTC knock sensor code makes it appears, you will notice sluggish acceleration, poor performance on the highway at passing other vehicle. What is happening is that the o2 sensor is telling the ECU the fuel air mixture is lean on the o2 sensor micro voltage output and this is not a reality in the engine combustion chamber. For example. The perfect Micro-voltage for O2 sensor reading at WOT is .880 -.920mv(higher is leaner). Once the o2 sensor see anything above .950mv or 1 volt its will set DTC code 327. DTC 0328 is a faulty knock sensor or circuit. DTC 0327 tells a lean condition in the ECU circuit and not always a reality with physical in the engine. Also you must consider the out of range imdepance on the oxygen sensor is setting conditions to cause knock in the physical engine. The knock sensor is not recording a detonation or ping"knock" in the combustion chamber. But instead the non recommended OHMs oxygen senor is sending a abnormal voltage signal to the ECU. The ECU will protect the engine from self distruction once the knock sensor or the o2 sensor determine imperfect combustion mixture. Also remember fuel pressure regulator mounted on the fuel rail control by vacuum or electric plays a major roll in DTC 0327. Timing is essential to fuel consumption, engine protection, environmental and climate laws.

Most of the time a knock sensor is design to remain functional for 1 million miles. So replacing the knock(Kr) sensor will not solve your DTC 0327 or 0328. you must remember if the ECU display a oxygen sensor code, most likely that or those sensor would be replaced Accorden to year, make and model. Not Accorden to OHMs or IMPEDANCE test. Well you must understand other vehicles of different make and model are likely operating on the same sensor but it operation environment are different requiring different IMPEDANCE OHMs resistance o2 sensor for perfect ignition timing. So this is what make the OHM read of the sensor important to prevent DTC 0327 or 0328. Also failure to understand this information will leave the vehicle with a "check engine" or "service engine soon" light display on the gauge compartment. This will also fail the vehicle from any state emission gas test for fitness permit to drive in safe environment.

If relocating the knock sensor solve the DTC code it means the signal wire is not sending a pure or accurate micro voltage to the ECU since the length and the resistance(ohms) of the wire have increase.

 

[wal92tt]

So do I replace the KS or the OS? UGH....

 

[Steveie]

So do I replace the KS or the OS? UGH....

First you need to make sure the engine is not experancing any air vacuum leak. The STFT must display 0% on the scan tool, when the vehicle transmission shifter is place into DRIVE with the brake and E-brake HOLDing and engine is up to operation temperature(about 200F degree). Most of the time the vg33e engine will Experance air and coolant leak at the lower intake manifold where its connected to the cylinder head. If the STFT is 0% all is good. What is the mileage of your current oxygen sensor??.

Also what is the condition of the exhaust catalytic converter?. A restricted or broke ceramic inside the catalytic converter will negatively affect exhaust gas and combustion temperature which will cause Knock. If the o2 sensor is over 80K mile, its will be best to replace the o2 sensor with the Nissan dealer OEM part stating Bosch(manufacturers) on it. The impedance for the O2 sensor is 600ohm, Accorden to Nissan engineering. You will have to test the dealer sensor to show the dealer the ohm reading that the factory OEM repair manual specified. Good luck. I am now doing a research video on this very topic to be post on YouTube and link to here. My D22 at 97,000 miles trip a oxygen sensor code, about 10yrs since I had a DTC P0327 code. I have done everything in my experience and Nissan manual to help reduce the display of DTC P0327 and fail on till now at 189,000 mile, the O2 sensor fail on the heater circuit. So now I am getting ready to replace the DENZO thin-body o2 sensor with Nissan OEM Hitachi o2 sensor and I have not seen DTC P0327 for the pass 500 miles now. Normal the code will reappear with 20-30 miles of driving, but no codes return, with the original OEM Knock sensor still in working order.

 

[Steveie]

This is how you fix a knock code correctly. You don't need any dealer TSB.

Or relocating kit.