As some of you know I did the KS override with a resistor. Well I just could not leave well enough alone. So I tried to pull off my KS wire harness without removing any part of the engine. Conclusion- Impossible to get the wire harness off a v6 4x4. I think you could get at it if you did not have the 4x4 parts like the propeller shaft in the way. No matter where I put my hand the closest I got was getting my finger on the wire harness. So with that attempt out of the way I went to order the following.
wire harness from Courtsey Nissan & a Nissan Knock Seonsor from RockAuto.com. To get the knock sensor I got one from a 1999 Nissan Maxima for $69.00 (genuine Nissan package). You will need a bolt too so go get a M6-1.0 x 30mm and two washers. You may need some wire heat shrink and some electrical tape.
I placed the the KS on air intake in the middle on the left side. There are some open bolt holes there you can use. I used the middle which had grounding wires on. I moved the grounding wires ahead a bolt hole on another empty bolt hole.
Once I received the the wire harness I cut off the end that did not attach to the knock sensor (I left enough wire on the cut off harness to use just encase I would have a need for it later). Striped the wires and placed the KS on the harness then attached it to the air intake. I then used an ohm meter, one that can test Mega-ohms, from the white wire to engine ground. Do not test between the two wires as they will be no resistance. Reading should be between 500-600 ohms. Mine was .560 M-ohms and so the KS is good.
Then I removed the wires off the oil cover harness that hooks up with the old KS. You could actually cut the wires off from the harness (just leave some extra wire on them just in case you need to reuse them. The wire colors for mine were (gray and white or off white). I followed them down the large bundle of wires (you will need to cut off the electrical tape and open up the plastic bundle housing to follow the wires back.
The two wires turn into something like a coax cable where the gray wire is braided around a white wire in a single black jacket. Just carefully strip the wires and prep them to be soldered and heat shrank to the new KS wire harness. Braided wire goes with the grey wire on harness. The white wire goes with the see through copper wire on the harness. NOTE: I first wired up the white to the gray wire and the braided to the clear. The color are a bit miss leading as the white is a see through jacket. You can test this out by hooking up the wires and starting the truck. Then use voltmeter to test DC voltage on the white wire connection and then to truck ground. A voltage of 2.5 is good. A voltage of 4.75 is BAD. Electrical tape them together after you heat shrink them and then tape everything closed when done.
Also make sure you seal up your old holes on the wire harness if you removed the wires. You could place the ends right back in the holes.
If I get around to it I will post a pic of final look. I'm sort of picky as I do not like items looking like some silly noob put them together. Took me about hour to do.
This pic is slighty wrong. The blue marking for the ECU wire does not go to the right it goes right up the bundle of wire to the firewall.
