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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone been successful in changing the knock sensor without taking the plenum off. It a a v6 4x4. Friend of mine thinks it can be done with taking a motor mount off and a special tool.
 

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Has anyone been successful in changing the knock sensor without taking the plenum off. It a a v6 4x4. Friend of mine thinks it can be done with taking a motor mount off and a special tool.

There is no way.. you would have to have a 5 jointed arm to be able to get in there then there is no way to move a wrench. What I did was just bypass that stock Knock sensor. and Use one from a Maxima and the wiring harness from the Maxima as well and just spliced it to gether and put the knock sensor on top of the intake plenum. Completely solved that constant code popping up about the sensor. I believe i picked up both the sensor and harness for about $40 on EBAY
 

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Read the sticky at the top of the page.

I elected to use the actual Frontier sensor (not the Maxima) and connected the original sensor wire to the new, relocated one.

Read ALL the pages of the sticky.
 

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There is no way.. you would have to have a 5 jointed arm to be able to get in there then there is no way to move a wrench. What I did was just bypass that stock Knock sensor. and Use one from a Maxima and the wiring harness from the Maxima as well and just spliced it to gether and put the knock sensor on top of the intake plenum. Completely solved that constant code popping up about the sensor. I believe i picked up both the sensor and harness for about $40 on EBAY
I did that too as a temporary fix until I dug into the top end, it got rid of the code

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Coolant leak on lower plenum... coming back apart tomorrow
What happened?
Felpro or Victor reinz makes the best lower plenum gaskets because they have rubber rings around the coolant ports not like OEM ones, I also coated mine on both sides with red rtv for extra assurance

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I think I'll be doing a relocate soon. One of the original knock sensor relocators, he eventually got it put back right and found that there were some intake leaks.

Maybe I should sneak a borescope in there and be sure everything is alright before a smaller amount of work now doesn't mean I not only avoided important work later, but I've just added to the work.

The primary focus for me, is I want to do some pico testing to see if the knock sensor actually works in the wrong location. If it does...since they often go out in like 60k miles in the environment of the right location, then it'd be an upgrade.

Regardless, I hear that 1-3 mpg is a likely improvement so it'll always help with the cost of going down the road. (the engine I assume risks more timing advance if it has a useable knock sensor)

Did you get your leak sorted? Would you know if you got an MPG improvement?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Mechanic took it back apart Friday morning. I was at work and couldn't assist. Found it was just some hose leaks. Replaced them and now it's all done. Brother in law brought it to my parents house since I couldn't pick it up. I'll know in a day or 2 when I get it back.

The k&n filter was recharged and throttle body was filthy so I cleaned that up while we had it apart. Good news was 110k mikes and it was OEM sensor. It lasted.

I'll update once I get it back
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update- car drives great. Mechanic forgot to clear codes so I did. Haven't driven <1 mile it since but I did get new code P0301. Cylinder 1 misfire. Could it be from just resetting the code or do I need to change the wire?
 

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Update- car drives great. Mechanic forgot to clear codes so I did. Haven't driven <1 mile it since but I did get new code P0301. Cylinder 1 misfire. Could it be from just resetting the code or do I need to change the wire?
Is it just misfire on startup or more often? Check the freezeframe data. That may be a hint for me for where to start to look next.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
It's on startup. Haven't driven it much to get a feel for it. My guess is it's a plug wire from when the mechanic put it back together after the knock sensor

What do you mean by freezeframe data
 

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It's on startup. Haven't driven it much to get a feel for it. My guess is it's a plug wire from when the mechanic put it back together after the knock sensor

What do you mean by freezeframe data
Thats where the car's computer records what other sensors were saying when the code happened. That way, you can look for the misfire when it's expected instead of not knowing if the engine has to be cold, or hot, or whatever.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Changed wires and cleaned the code. Took it for a ride and rechecked. No codes. Idling high about 1800 rpms but steady no fluctuations
 

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Changed wires and cleaned the code. Took it for a ride and rechecked. No codes. Idling high about 1800 rpms but steady no fluctuations
Check your throttle cable hookup and throttle cam for mechanical issues, if good then calibrate your TPS with a multimeter on ohms to spec, if it's still idling high you may have to do a throttle relearn procedure

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok so today I started my truck. P0301 code was back. Cylinder misfire. Now I'm pissed. I Take a step back and begin to look. We'll find a clamp that was overlooked on the cold air intake. Start truck up and code is gone. Take it for a spin put about 20 miles on and now the rpms are steady 1100 when at a light. Cold start is about 1800 in park. Get back and new code p0510. TPS sensor closed. I feel like I'm chasing codes constantly
 

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Ok so today I started my truck. P0301 code was back. Cylinder misfire. Now I'm pissed. I Take a step back and begin to look. We'll find a clamp that was overlooked on the cold air intake. Start truck up and code is gone. Take it for a spin put about 20 miles on and now the rpms are steady 1100 when at a light. Cold start is about 1800 in park. Get back and new code p0510. TPS sensor closed. I feel like I'm chasing codes constantly
Sounds like you need to follow the procedure of checking your TPS calibration , you'll need a multimeter and possibly a set of feeler gauges

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